The Gotham Palate

What’s On… East 20th Street? (between Broadway and Park Avenue South) Gramercy

June 12, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Gramercy Tavern may make this block a cut above these days, but before the famed restaurant called East 20th home, Theodore Roosevelt did. Stop by the Teddy Roosevelt Museum on this block and take a tour of the house in which he was born. The site pays homage to the life and times of America’s 26th president. The aptly named Performance Studio also called E 20th home at number 23 and saw a very green Ramones play their first show in 1974. Today, E 20th Street between Broadway and Park is a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of Broadway and the high-society feel of Park Ave. Great food finds without the crowds or the attitude await!

900 Broadway – Beecher’s Handmade Cheese

Its entrance is basically on E 20th, a catty-corner door facing neither E 20th or Broadway. Beecher’s makes its own cheese, hence the name of the store, but also carries a variety of other artisan cheeses, salumi and anything else you’d like to go along with the two. Stop by The Cellar downstairs to indulge in Beecher’s famous mac and cheese or a selection from their dinner menu. Don’t forget the wine… and more cheese.

27 E 20th Street – Rohm

Rohm Thai sits down a few steps from street level just enough to duck out of sight and keep Rohm a quiet spot where you can bring a date. The music is fun and upbeat, and the food and pricing right in line with other Thai offerings. Though most may find it rather un-sensational, those who dig it are loyal and come back for more time and time again.

Rohm’s exterior

29 E 20th Street – Mizu

It’s Japanese and Thai at Mizu, whose menu sports all the basics (with options heavier on the Japanese side) and can call itself a solid spot when you’re in the neighborhood. Don’t expect a glorious experience here, but do expect consistently fresh fish and reasonable rates at this area go-to.

30 E 20th Street – No Idea

This dive on E 20th is a favorite of the after work crowd, the cheap doubles (or so) served in a pint glass will leave you feeling fine after a tough day at the office. Find your name on their calendar and you’ll feel like it’s your birthday when your name is the chosen one for the night – drink free from 5-11 and bond with others who share your namesake! A pool table rounds out the experience and most agree this is a solid neighborhood kind of place.

A margarita pizza @ La Pizza Fresca

31 E 20th Street – La Pizza Fresca Ristorante

La Pizza Fresca flaunts the membership rites of being only one of two restaurants in New York City to be part of the VPN (La Vera Pizza Napoletana), a rigorous membership process which includes the training of pizza chefs and a strict ingredient list whose components can only be imported from Naples. If pizza isn’t your thing, indulge in the seafood dishes from seasoned chef Alessandro Cargiolli, a native of famed seafood region of Liguria, Italy.

*Think this place couldn’t excel in anything else? Wine Spectator has awarded La Pizza Fresca a Best of Award of Excellence every year since 2001.

33 E 20th Street – Moore Brothers Wine Company

Moore Brothers stands a cut above the rest with an attention to fine wine from France, Italy, and Germany. The owners import and select all wine directly from the vineyards themselves, ensuring a quality bottle (with reasonable price tags to match) every time. A friendly, knowledgeable, and down to earth staff round out the oenophilic experience.

*Other locations include a close-to-Philly New Jersey locale as well as one in Wilmington, Delaware.
36 E 20th Street – Parea Prime

Parea Prime takes classic Greek specialties and the American steakhouse and makes them their own, pleasing everyone at your table with its something-for-everyone offerings; attentive service and a pleasant atmosphere round out the overall pleasing experience of dining here. Try the grilled octopus and the zucchini tempura to start!

40 E 20th Street – Flute

Ok, so the Champagne bar thing is kind 90s but Flute manages to own the theme and bring it home with a knowledgeable, friendly staff and a well thought out champagne list. Small bites are offered and can be hit or miss so come early or late depending on the type of celebration.

*In Paris? Visit Flute’s third location near the Arc de Triomphe. This location touts a “New York” lounge atmosphere.

41 E 20th Street – Mari Vanna

The interior @ Mari Vanna

Mari Vanna’s opulent decor will take you to your babushka’s house (the one who still lives in Moscow) complete with black and white family photos, floral wallpaper, and knickknacks. The classic Russian specialties here like their borscht and pelmeni will warm you heart and soul, while their selection of Russian and house infused vodkas keep you toasty on a cold winter night.

42 E 20th Street – Gramercy Tavern

For nearly two decades Gramercy Tavern has been the gold standard for new American fare and supreme service in New York City. The seasonal pre fixe menu curated by executive chef, Michael Anthony is timeless and poignant, creating a meal that will surely transport.

*Pre order a copy of the Gramercy Tavern cookbook (being released later this year) to enjoy some of the classics at home!

43 E 20th Street – Veritas

The wine list at Veritas is not merely a list, it is a collection. The collection of Park B. Smith, a textile entrepreneur, accounts for much of the wine list at Veritas and is yours to peruse while you enjoy the offerings of executive chef, Sam Hazen. The kind of experience you should expect at Veritas doesn’t come cheap – for a more affordable option grab a seat at the bar and snack on a selection of sumptuous contemporary American small plates.

Filed Under: Featured, Gramercy Park, Informational, Restaurant News, Round-up Reviews Tagged With: Carolyn Onofrey, NYC, NYC neighborhoods, NYC neighborhoods and food news, NYC Neighborhoods and Their Restaurants, NYC streets and restaurants, What's On...What's On Column, Where to eat in Gramercy Park, Where to Eat in NYC Neighborhoods

Anassa – A First Glimpse

June 10, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Anassa
200 E 60th Street
212.371.5200/anassataverna.com
Midtown East

Inside Anassa

Anassa opened its doors to the public for the first time Friday. A Greek Taverna with a prime spot on Third Avenue across from Bloomingdales. Hungry shoppers (expect a ladies who lunch vibe) will be a contributing factor to the mid-day customer flow here – especially with moderate prices right in line with the area and it’s attractions (entrees averaging at the $26 mark). The Grecian space in the former Brasserie 360 location transports with plenty of windows, marble, and flowing white curtains. The fashion forward crowd here will certainly enjoy the prime people watching of Third Avenue through the walls of windows the space sports. An especially airy upstairs dining area doubles as an event space with its own ouzo bar.

Anassa’s bartenders are engaging and knowledgeable, the marble bar top they stand behind, the perfect spot to try a glass of Greek wine while you wait for a table.

Greek staples like dolmades (stuffed cabbage with rice), lamb chops, and skordalia (potato and garlic dip) dot the otherwise seafood heavy menu – just the way I like my Greek.

Filed Under: Featured, Greek, Midtown East, Restaurant News, Reviews Tagged With: Anassa, Carolyn Onofrey, Greek Restaurants in Midtown East, Greek Restaurants in NYC, Manhattan, NYC, Review of Anassa, Where to eat in Midtown East

Approachable Vegetarian with a Couture Twist – A Review of Table Verte and Upclose with Chef Ken Larsen

May 31, 2013 By admin 1 Comment

BY ELENA MANCINI

127 East 7th. Street
East Village
212.539.0231 / www.tablevertenyc.com/

Despite the sustained ascendancy of organic restaurants, forage-cooking and locavoric awareness in recent years, the notion of a vegetarian meal still conjures up images flavorless mock meats and boiled broccoli spears in the American mainstream imaginary. Table Verte’s Chef Ken Larsen vigorously puts these outdated stereotypes and biases to bed, and brings a fresh and flavor-forward approach with a French-focus to vegetarian and vegan dining. A New York native of Norwegian extraction, Larsen was trained in the French culinary tradition. He recognizes Marcus Samuelsson, with whom he had the opportunity to work at Aquavit and Terence Brennan among his culinary influences.

Chef Ken Larsen of Table Verte, NYC

A graduate of New York’s French Culinary Institute and with fifteen years of professional experience in kitchens of France and New York, including a stint in a steak house, Larsen’s journey to vegan and vegetarian cooking evolved along with developments in his own life and relationships. A former triathaloner, Larsen decided to embrace a vegan diet five years ago. During his training, he researched endurance diets and found that a plant-based diet to be the most effective in giving him the energy and vitality of an eighteen year old–Larsen is forty-one. Larsen has a vibrant and youthful complexion and his animated speech and spirited gestures quell suspicions of hyperbole.

Larsen’s approach to cooking is very grounded: “Food has to do more than deliver a health property; it has to nurture and have an emotional quality.” Presenting a healthy, nutritious way of eating without sacrificing taste is at the center of Larsen’s mission. He enjoys prepping and combining grains, greens and root vegetables to deliver delicious flavors, textures and vitamin and protein contents. Larsen’s philosophy was in perfect alignment with the concept behind Table Verte. Opened in October 2012, a few short weeks before the wrath of Superstorm Sandy descended upon the region, Table Verte is restaurateur-chef, Didier Pawlicki’s latest venture. A French transplant and seasoned New York entrepreneur, Pawlicki is also the owner of Taureau and La Sirène in Soho, Manhattan. Table Verte is Pawlicki’s first vegetarian venture. His foray into vegetarian food was in large part a response to his clientele’s request and way of honoring the local community of diners in the East Village, where Table Verte is located.

Pawlicki’s commitment to “creating a restaurant designed not only to satisfy people’s dietary requirements but to create happy people” found its synergistic match with Larsen’s culinary background and philosophy of bringing vegetarian flavor profiles forward and taking his primary resources from a state of rustic to refined without compromising their integrity. With Table Verte Larsen and Pawlicki intend to offer vegetarians and vegans alike with a refined vegetarian and vegan menu and to make vegetarian eating approachable for all.

Larsen describes the opportunity to work with Pawlicki as serendipitous as it allows him to grow and thrive as a chef by experimenting, push boundaries in creating delectable, gourmet vegetarian and vegan alternatives to beloved French dishes. He describes his work environment as his own “inner think tank box” to explore the endless variety of vegetables and things that can be done to them. Larsen is presently working on a vegetarian cookbook composed of recipes and anecdotes. His intent is to show how healthy eating can be rewarding to the palate and easily prepared at home and accessible to adults and children alike. Larsen has two teenaged daughters who have chosen to embrace a vegan diet with him.

Offering a French bistro menu that is 50 percent vegetarian and 50 percent vegan, Table Verte is an intimate and casual space, cheerfully decorated with bright murals evoking sixties bohemian flair with table tops appropriately colored kelly green. It seats approximately 40 people. Currently BYOB, it will be offering a list of select global wines and imported beers in the fall.

Whether you’re vegetarian or not, Table Verte will prove both interesting and worthwhile.
Dinner entrees range from $16 – low 20$ range. Appetizers and desserts are under $10.
There is also $40 three-course prix-fixe dinner menu — anything off the menu.

Sampled Dishes:

Poached Asparagus with Fennel Mayonnaise and Pickled Shallots

Poached Asparagus with Fennel Mayonnaise was the consummate spring dish. The asparagus was fresh and toothsome. Fennel mayonnaise was a light and refreshing complement to this dish. Pickled shallots added interesting texture and kick.

The Assiette de Crudite is a root salad medley is a lovely dish that epitomizes the idea of nutrition and flavor delivery. Composed of shredded celery root with lemon juice, lentils vinaigrette and beets with horseradish prepared with fresh seasonal herbs, it is the ultimate consummate “feel good” dish with its low caloric content and delicious flavors.

Balsamic Roasted Strawberries with Brussels Sprouts

While there can be no question about the nutritional value of a dish Balsamic Roasted Strawberries with Brussels Sprouts, Larsen’s preparation with roasted strawberries in a balsamic reduction makes this a fun, spring dish for the color and sweetness delivered by the strawberries and the contrast with the earthy, bitter Brussels sprouts. For those for whom “eating your Brussels sprouts” represents a chore, this preparation will cause it to feel less so.

Cassoulet Vegetalien

A dish commonly prepared with meat, Table Verte’s Cassoulet Vegetalien is a deeply flavorful entree that evokes the earthy grounding flavors of meat while being 100% vegan. It’s ideal for a cold winter day or a rainy night. Elegantly plated in a Creuset terrine, it is composed of a mixture of white and colored beans, thyme and sprigs of fresh herbs and a side of wild rice, it is deliciously aromatic and a satisfying entree.

Gnocchi Parisian au Gratin

Gnocchi Parisian is a rich and hearty option for the more bistro-oriented experience. Feather like gnocchi come baked au gratin under a thick coat of white sauce, white truffles and Swiss cheese.

Roast Yams

On the lighter side of entrees are Roast Yams. Infused with star anise, they come served with sauteed watercress and raisin cous cous.

As a side dish (or a guilt-free dessert), try the yam cake. It consists of thin layers of yams–stacked in Napoleon fashion– and is generously seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg and will conjure up Thanksgiving memories any time of the year.

Gateau De Semoule

Also showing no signs of compromise are Table Verte’s desserts, which are also prepared by Chef Larsen.

My favorite among these is the semolina cake, which is Chef Pawlicki’s grandmother’s recipe. Made from semolina wheat flour, the cake has a light and creamy texture and is subtly sweet. The cake’s flavors are enhanced by rum-soaked raisins and a delightful coat of Creme Anglaise.

Banana Creme Brulee

Banana Creme Brulee is a fun twist on Creme Brulee. Banana fibers alter the texture of the dessert favorably and bestows a dimension of natural sweetness upon this classic dessert.

Filed Under: East Village, Featured, French, Vegetarian Tagged With: Chef Ken Larsen, Didier Pawlicki, Elena Mancini, French Vegetarian Food in NYC, French Vegetarian Restaurants in NYC, NYC, Table Verte, Vegetarian Restaurant in NYC

Tofu House Warms the Body and Soul – Review of BCD Tofu House

May 7, 2013 By admin 1 Comment

BY BETH KAISERMAN

5 W 32nd St New York, 10001
(212) 967-1900 / www.bcdtofu.com/

Friendly smiles greeted guests as I stepped into BCD Tofu House on opening night in late April. Delightful Korean fare was being prepared in the kitchen at BCD’s new bi-level restaurant in Koreatown.

Soon Tofu

Located at 5 W. 32nd St., BCD Tofu House (formerly down the street at 17 W. 32nd St.) is a popular fast casual restaurant that’s been around since 1996, with most of its locations in Southern California. The brand is known for its traditional Korean tofu soup, known as “Soon Tofu Soup.” This yummy, hearty bowl of pork tofu soup was the highlight of the night, made with chili powder, bean paste, tofu, cabbage and salt water. I chose the seafood version, with mussels and shrimp, as opposed to the pork one. Served piping hot, attentive servers came around with eggs, which we cracked into the clay pot bowl. Covered with the steaming hot soup and a ton of hot seafood, the egg cooks itself at the bottom of the bowl. Talk about feel-good food; this dish is amazingly tasty and healthy at the same time.

LA Galbi

We also tried LA Galbi, awesome BBQ short ribs with the bone on, my second favorite dish of the night. Other tastings included jabchae, glass noodles with vegetables and tofu, spicy raw crab, fried dumplings, shrimp potato rolls, and grilled tofu skewers.

Longtime BCD fan Helen Kang attended the event. Born in SoCal, she’s hooked on BCD’s tofu soup, and said that’s pretty much the norm in SoCal.

“If you’re going to go anywhere for tofu, that’s where you go,” she said.

She liked the layout of this new location, with its long wooden tables and chairs.

“The idea here is Korean traditional,” she said. “Wood is very important.”

BCD stands for “Buk-Chang-Dong,” a city known for its prosperity, according to a press release. The ribbon was cut on Thursday, and BCD Tofu House is now open to the public.

Filed Under: Featured, Korean, Koreatown, Reviews Tagged With: BCD Tofu House, Beth Kaiserman, Korean food in NYC, NYC, Traditional Korean Food in NYC, Trendy Korean Restaurants in NYC

Galli brings new meaning to brunch

April 29, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Galli
45 Mercer Street
SoHo
212.966.9288/gallirestaurant.com

Grapefruit @ Galli

If you close your eyes you can almost imagine yourself in the swank SoHo apartment you don’t have – a wide open space with 20 foot floor to ceiling windows, bathed in the morning sun as you sit at your breakfast table leisurely sipping a cappuccino and enjoying a croissant… At least that’s what I envisioned when I was delivered my cappuccino and croissant at Galli – a restaurant who prides itself on a neighborhood atmosphere serving Italian comfort food.

Galli launched its Buon Giorno menu this year, just in time for the first glimpse of Spring. A light cafe style menu comprised mostly of fruit, yogurt, and pastries. As I sat enjoying the simplicity of my half grapefruit sprinkled with raw sugar, I looked around the dining room to see only a few tables occupied – those who did have people at them were couples with young babies. Although I had admittedly never put much thought into where a young couple with a new baby went if they wanted to treat themselves to brunch, I was happy to see that it was at Galli. A type of safe haven – a family place accented by photographs from the owners’, Steve Gallo (Brio Downtown) and Michael Forrest, own family albums.

House-made granola with Greek yogurt and berries @ Galli

Breakfast continued with fresh berries, Greek yogurt, and granola – a light and healthy way to start the day. Bistro tables at the front of the restaurant near the bar are the perfect place to enjoy the homemade granola and the people watching of Mercer Street – the back dining room; the perfect place to hide out and soak up the sun streaming in from the skylights.
I often seek out neighborhood type places where I can enjoy breakfast without being rushed and leave not feeling like I just consumed my body weight in bacon and eggs or indulged in the all-you-can-drink brunch, which seems to run so rampant these days, leaving nothing of my Sunday but a sleepy lump on the couch. After Galli, I am ready to take on the city – run those errands I have been meaning to run for the past three weeks or take a long walk to enjoy the beauty of the city at the first signs of spring.

Filed Under: Brunch, Featured, Italian, Reviews, Soho Tagged With: Brunch in NYC, Brunch in Soho, Carolyn Onofrey, Galli, NYC, Where to brunch in Soho

What’s On… Clinton Street? (Between Stanton and Rivington)

April 19, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On… Clinton Street? (Between Stanton and Rivington)

Lower East Side

Clinton Street’s way east address is deterrent for some, making the gentrification factor slightly less than other parts of the LES, but those who do venture to Clinton Street are pleasantly surprised to find a long a varied strip of food and nightlife destinations. However, it wasn’t long ago that the Lower East Side’s underbelly called Clinton home. It wasn’t until 1999 when Wylie Dufresne helped to put 71 Clinton on the map that things started to turn around. Clinton Street’s not so recent past also warrants a tour. It was on Clinton Street that Fredericka “Marm” Mandelbaum’s original storefront stood. From here, Mandelbaum saw millions of dollars worth of stolen goods pass through in the mid 19th century. She also ran a school for aspiring pickpockets and robbers which is said to have been right next door to a police precinct.

35 Clinton Street – Donnybrook

This Irish pub seated at the corner of Clinton and Stanton can usually be caught under maximum capacity (which is more to say than for most bars in the LES) bringing those who like a casual drink with good friends back time and time again. A 12 – 15 dollar brunch special serves its purpose in a ‘hair of the dog’ sort of way.

37 Clinton Street – Atlas Cafe

The H & H bagels served at Atlas Cafe make it a worthwhile stop if you’re in the area around breakfast time. Other menu offerings include quiches and paninis with a variety of vegetarian offerings. Coffee suffices and free WiFi is another selling point for most.

58 Clinton Street – Temple of Ankh

Most agree that Temple of Ankh is nothing to get excited about – but really, what hookah bar lives up to the hype anyway? Food, service, and decor-wise it’s pretty much unanimous that this place lives up to the standard of other so-so hookah places although the milk and Sprite hookah varieties do add some unconventional fun to the mix.

50 Clinton Street – wd~50

Wylie Dufresne’s acclaimed restaurant wd~50 celebrates 10 years this year. In case you haven’t heard – WD~50’s Wylie Dufresne is somewhat of a mad scientist when it comes to your dinner plate. Molecular gastronomy paired with precision and attention to detail make for a culinary experience you won’t soon forget. To celebrate WD~50’s 10th anniversary, try a tasting menu from some of the past 10 years’ best dishes!

63 Clinton Street – Fatta Cuckoo

The seasonal menu at Fatta Cuckoo is all about coming together to have a good time over good food. Comfort food focused items like fried chicken or their signature key lime pie comprise the menu and an enticing cocktail selection rounds out the scene. The “drunch” brunch special is what keeps most people coming back – at $25 for 3 quality cocktails and an entree, who can complain? – Even when you’re sitting on top of your next door neighbor.

63 Clinton Street – Cube Sushi

The BYO status of Cube 63 has regulars coming back for a boozy good time before a night on the town, but can’t seem to keep new clientele looking for satisfying sushi due to its lack of fresh ingredients. Try to stay away if you’re not looking to lose your lunch.

67 Clinton Street – Barramundi

The always crowded, kitschy bar who once called Ludlow home is now tucked away on Clinton waiting to be rediscovered. You’ll want to try their sangria and stay for their house infused vodkas. A 2 for 1 happy hour every night until 8 sweetens the deal. Through a door in the back lies a secret upstairs for a more refined crowd than downstairs…

67 Clinton Street (Upstairs) – 2nd Floor on Clinton

A quiet library setting for no more than groups for 4 awaits up the stairs from energetic Barramundi. Sip artfully crafted cocktails and enjoy artisan chocolate truffles by Roni – Sue. Ring the bell next to the door marked ‘private’ to be escorted upstairs to this haven of sorts nestled deep in the Lower East Side.

*2nd Floor on Clinton is only open Wednesday – Saturday.

68 Clinton Street – Pig and Khao

Leah Cohen of Top Chef fame and the Fatty crew have teamed up to create Pig and Khao – a modern take on Southeast Asian cooking. Stop by for classic Filipino favorites like sizzling sisig (pig head) or a tasty Thai red curry. This gem isn’t quite on the radar yet, so stop by while the waits are short!

*The $1 beer happy hour is one of the best deals in the city.

69 Clinton Street – Prosperity Dumpling

Another one of the best deals in the city – Prosperity’s pork and chive dumplings come 4 for $1 at this LES location (5/$1 at their Eldridge St. locale). What this place lacks in decor and service, the dumplings more than make up for in value and flavor. Stop out of your way for these things, you’ll be glad you did.

71 Clinton Street – Izakaya DoDomPa

This Japanese pub is exactly what the doctor ordered in this part of town. Quality izakaya at fair prices make DoDomPa a great stop if you’re looking to fill your belly and have a few drinks with friends before a night on the town. Their Nagoya chicken wings are stand out and fans say they are just happy they can travel somewhere other than St. Marks to enjoy the food and atmosphere of quality Izakaya.

71 Clinton Street – San Marzano

The $40 all you can eat and drink special is what has rowdy groups coming back for time and time again, but it’s the pizza with namesake San Marzano tomatoes that keeps us coming back.

Go at an off time and enjoy the regular menu with regular people (read: not drunk and angry) or stop by on the weekend until 2am for an always satisfying slice.

72 Clinton Street – Cibao

You won’t stop by Cibao for its decor or service, but instead to sit down to a good, hearty meal rounded out with rice, beans, and tostones. It’s a Dominican diner, unglorified and unapologetic and doing its thing for decades. If tripe is your thing – don’t miss out on their Mondongo.

*Planning a party? Cibao also caters.

Filed Under: Featured, Food Trends, Informational, lower east side, Lower-East side, Neighborhood News, Reviews, Round-up Reviews Tagged With: Carolyn Onofrey, NYC, NYC Food and Neighborhoods, NYC streets and their eateries, The Gotham Palate, What's On Clinton St, What's On Column

A Catfish Grows in Brooklyn – Review of Catfish

March 18, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Inside Catfish – Photo courtesy of Catfish.

Catfish
1433 Bedford Ave
Crown Heights, Brooklyn
347-305-3233 /catfishnyc.com/

On an underdeveloped stretch of Bedford Ave. in Crown Heights, one that I’m sure won’t stay that way for long due to the rapidly evolving Brooklyn landscape, Catfish opens its doors daily for weekend brunch, lunch, and dinner of the New Orleans persuasion. Fair prices ensure a neighborhood vibe drawing neighborhood people. Catfish is a place to linger at the bar on a lazy Sunday or a place for brunch with a friend; a place where it’s easy to become a “regular”. In the summer, a breezy front entrance and a comfortable garden out back will be the perfect places to soak up the sun, enjoy a beer, and nosh on some oysters or clams on the half shell.

Owners, Maxx Colson, Aaron Giroux, and Luke Wheeler could very well be mistaken for members of your local rock band – the kind that girls swoon over- but instead met while working at a DUMBO gastropub together. They’re young, hungry, and ready to do whatever it takes to make Catfish all that it can be.

While working a limited menu for the first few months, Catfish now offers a full menu with all your bayou favorites. Po’ boys, Jambalaya, and gumbo stand front and center with a New Orleans style cornbread (served with cinnamon butter) that can’t be missed. A conservatively priced whiskey and scotch list as well as a thoughtful draft and bottled beer selection round out the menu and ensure that you’ll stick around for more than one drink.

I hope Catfish will appeal to both the new residents of Crown Heights as well as the old. A place where differences will melt away with shots of rye whiskey in the name of a good ‘ole fashion, good time.

Filed Under: Brooklyn, Crown Heights, Cuisines, Featured, Reviews Tagged With: Aaron Giroux, Brooklyn, Cajun Food, Cajun Food in Brooklyn, Cajun Food in NYC, Carolyn Onofrey, Catfish, Catfish Restaurant in Brooklyn, Luke Wheeler, Maxx Colson, NY, NYC, Where to eat in Crown Heights

Soul Food Arrives on Bedford Avenue: A Review of Sweet Chick

March 15, 2013 By admin 2 Comments

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Sweet Chick
164 Bedford Ave.
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
(347) 725-4793 / sweetchicknyc.com/

Fried Chicken at Sweet Chick

Collard Greens and Fried Chicken at Sweet Chick

I was thirsty, nauseous and I wanted gum immediately after.

I foraged through a bucket of chicken at Sweet Chick, the new soul food hotspot on Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg. An actual bucket, not in my living room in front of the TV, but in an actual restaurant.

When in Williamsburg, I’d rather trek to the smaller streets than hang on big bad Bedford Avenue. Sweet Chick is literally steps from the L train, not enough distance for me to enjoy being in Williamsburg.

The restaurant has been busy since it opened February 19. They’re even adding a late-night (12am-2am) menu, beginning this weekend, to accommodate the demand.

Not to sound like an old lady (which happens often), but the place was so dark I could barely see the food I was eating. I asked our server afterward what was in the slaw. It was collard greens, but it was so overly dressed I could barely taste anything. I would have loved some braised collard greens, and that’s something they could easily have cooked or partially cooked in advance, versus slopping some slaw into a bowl. It was overwhelming.

If you want fried chicken, you can get two pieces of chicken with your choice of waffle for $16, or opt for a bucket with the slaw and a biscuit for $17. That’s a pretty pricy bucket of chicken. I wish they had served a plate alongside to make eating it easier, but I was excited to dig in. The highlight of the meal was the chicken wing. They braise the chicken in sweet tea to give it moisture. That wing was insane! The white meat was fine, but not as moist as others (Pies ‘n’ Thighs is still a showstopper.) Also, some bites had more of a spicy kick than others. Hopefully, the chefs will work out a consistent flavor profile.

The cornbread was not crispy on the outside, and not warm. It tasted like what you grab in plastic wrap from the grocery store or deli.

The biscuit was bland, not anything close to the decadent softness I wish it had. It was hard to finish. Also it’s not served with condiments, but I used some of my friend’s butter (three different butters, actually) that came with her waffle. Still not enthused.

Some of their specials included general tso’s fried chicken with a rice broccoli waffle. A nice touch for the veg crowd, they have fried seitan as well. It wasn’t bad, though a bit soggy, the skin not as crisp as on the fried chicken.

The cocktail I had was tasty: the Sweet Chick, with house-infused watermelon vodka and a spicy brown sugar rim. They use Bootlegger vodka, produced in Roscoe, New York, for this one. Still, all of the cocktails were at least $11, a bit much to charge just because local artisan ingredients are used. (Another one has Jack Daniel’s Honey and soda from Brooklyn Soda Works.) Also, fruit-infused vodka is not hard to make.

The place is cute, with waffle pans on the walls in some spots. I think I’d be more into it if it had a more Southern feel; it still looks very Brooklyn. I hope the food gets better and cheaper; the late-night menu might be the way to go.

Now enough chirping from me, go try Sweet Chick for yourselves.

Filed Under: Brooklyn, Featured, Food Trends, Soul Food, Trendy Spots, Williamsburg Tagged With: Beth Kaiserman, Brooklyn, Eating in Williamsburg, Fried Chicken in Williamsburg, NYC, Sweet Chick, Williamsburg

A Flavor Tour of the Pan American Highway – Review of Oficina Latina

March 14, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY ELENA MANCINI

24 Prince St.
Nolita
(646) 381-2555 / www.oficinalatinanyc.com/

Inspired by 1950s road races on the Pan-American Highway, Oficina Latina recreates the feel and flavors of the Latin American countries along this famed 30,000 mile highway that stretches from Argentina to Alaska. The restaurant pays homage to this history with vintage race car photographs, original helmets and lots of sundry memorabilia and an original menu and extensive list of spirits drawn exclusively from the regions along the southern regions of the Pan-American highway. Thus the lively full-service bar here features a selection of 100-plus tequilas and mezcals, 100-plus rums, piscos and cachacas, and a South American wine list. For fans of mixed drinks, any margarita would be a surefire here, and the ginger lychee mojito ($13) yields its own flavorful drinking pleasures. Wines by the glass are in the $10 range.

Ginger Lychee Mojito at Oficina Latina

In the hands of lesser restaurateurs, a restaurant like this might have turned out gimmicky or akin to theme-centric restaurant that is often found among corporate franchise, but not so with Oficina Latina. It completely eschews the soulless cookie-cutter approach. Owners Max Busato and Paolo Votano have poured their passion into Oficina Latina making hand-on decisions about every decorative nuance of the restaurant from the reclaimed wood around its bar fixtures to its 1920s original tin ceiling and the vintage Latin-American religious artifacts and kitsch that adorn its fireplace and communal dining area. A cursory glance at the menu will reveal that equally judicious scrutiny went into the menu composition here. Encompassing a wide range of tapas and pinchos and a mix of meat and fish dishes, the menu is expansive and ethnically balanced to ensure that it reflects all of cultures of Latin America. Selections and combinations reveal not a superficial approach to an arbitrary concept, but a passionate pursuit for inclusion and authenticity. Chef Abraham Trinidad executes the expansive menu with talent and finesse.

Following is a rundown of some of the dishes I had during a recent dinner:

The dinner opened with a basket of crispy plantain chips and habanero sauce. An addictive combination which required restraint in order to proceed with actual meal or the luxury of abandon with the restaurant’s cocktail list.

Ceviche de Calamari y Vieras

The Calamari and Scallop Ceviche was exceptional. Fresh and cooked to the optimal texture , it was a flavorful and generously portioned starter.

Pulpo a la Parrilla

The grilled octopus was expertly charred and was butter-like tender to the bite. It came paired with roasted white potatoes and dressed with a Extra Virgin olive oil and cilantro, and was my favorite dish, and not only because I love octopus.

Tuna Skewers and Grilled Mixed Vegetables with Fruit on a Skewer are also great tapas choices here. They come minimally seasoned and perfectly grilled allowing the flavors of the ingredients shine through.

Abrebocas

Fried blood sausage, chorizo and arepitas served with chipotle mayonnaise, also known are abrebocas, or appetizers at Oficina Latina was both hearty and tasty and a dish that championed Latin-American flavors. Particularly enjoyable about this dish were the lean and smoky slices of grilled chorizo and the crispy Venezuelan-style arepitas. The blood sausage was tender and yielded its content to the first fork poke.

Braised lamb Shank with slow-cooked vegetables and plantain puree was a beautifully composed dish and a great choice for a wintry night.

Tres Leches

Passion and Love Shot

The Tres Leches Cake here–also prepared by Chef Trinidad– was a lighter version of the typically much richer Mexican dessert, and highly enjoyable. The pleasures were compounded as it came served with a shot of “passion and love.” Evoking sinister indulgences, A miniature decanter of artisanal Venezuelan rum is served on a mirror platter with an orange wedge and rows of ground coffee, cinnamon and raw sugarcane. The idea is to chase the rum shot with the orange rubbed in a mixture of the coffee, cinnamon and sugar. The result is one of gratifying warmth. You must experience it for yourself.

Oficina Latina has a young, energetic vibe and lends itself to fun and informal gatherings.

Tapas are in the $8-$15 range. Entrees in the $20-$23 range.

Oficina Latina is open daily for a 12$ prix-fixe brunch ($15 with a cocktail), Monday-Sunday.
Happy Hour is from 4-7, Monday – Friday.

Filed Under: Featured, Latin Restaurants, Nolita, Reviews Tagged With: Chef Abraham Trinidad, Elena Mancini, Food inspired by Pan-American Highway, Latin Restaurants in NYC, Max Busato and Paolo Votano, NYC, Oficina Latina, Pan-American Highway, Pan-Latin Restaurants in Nolita, Pan-Latin Restaurants in NYC, Restaurants in Nolita

Serving Locally Sourced World Cuisine with a Side of Neighborhood Vintage – Review of Trix

March 4, 2013 By admin Leave a Comment

BY ELENA MANCINI

147 Bedford Avenue
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
http://www.trixnyc.com/

A stone’s toss away from the bustle and human bottle-necking of the Bedford and North 7th L train subway stop stands Trix, an original restaurant that pays tribute to the vestigial industrial character of Williamsburg’s Northside.

With original artwork that melds garage with lyrical, encompassing portraiture, industrial scultptures and craftsmanship by Minneapolis-based artist, James Johnson, Trix exudes unforced bohemian appeal. The aesthetic concept behind Trix is the result of restaurateur, Veso Buntic (also owner of Anabale Basin in Long Island City) and Johnson’s close collaboration. A venture that began in 2011, both artist and entrepreneur wanted to incorporate visual artifacts that would evoke the restaurant’s previous occupant and a nod the the Williamsburg of a grittier era. Belinda’s Go-Go Lounge inhabited the site until 1987. Belinda’s occupied the space until 1987, and is memorialized with stained-glass lettering on Trix’s storefront and tasteful portraiture in the restaurant’s interior.

As to the interior, sheets of gray metal span the length and breadth of the ceiling. Flamingo mosaics adorn the base of a sumptuously sculptured bar. A wave like structure in pewter forms the base and 100 year old lit alabaster spans the bar top. With arachnid sculptures hanging from the walls, the expansive bar weds Goth with Miami deco. If the visual effects of the bar will draw you in, Trix’s winning speakeasy-style cocktail list designed by Dusan Zaric of Manhattan’s Employee’s Only and an eclectic wine list definitely want to make you stay a while. The Amelia cocktail prepared with fresh blackberry juice, elderflower and vodka is a wonderfully smooth way to downshift after a long day at work or to spark a night out. For a more warming pick-up, opt for the Peach Smash, made with Makers Mark and Creme de Peche with lemon juice. Most cocktails are under $15 and closer to $10. They can be had at a discounted price in addition to $3 beers and $5 select wines during Trix’s Monday – Friday (4-8) happy hour. $1 oysters with a complexly fiery harissa sauce complete this happy hour bonanza.

Pescetarians and seafood lovers will find themselves cheerfully rewarded with a locally-sourced French-inspired menu with global influences executed by Chef Ian Pasquer. However, the offerings hold ample selections for the meat-and-poultry-oriented as well. A great deal of Trix’s fish and seafood is sourced by D’Artagnan in Manhattan. Small plates range from $6-$12. Entrees range from the low 20s to $25. Desserts are under $10.

Honey-tenderized grilled octopus salad was an enjoyable small plate. Optimally-charred and supremely tender, the octopus rested atop a bed of aged balsamic dressed watercress making it a highly recommendable starter-choice. Mushroom polenta is a grounding and tasty vegetarian alternative. Perfectly crisp and delicate wedges of polenta are perched atop a bed of cremini mushrooms in a white wine reduction. Shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano tie the flavors and textures together.

A felicitous adaptation of escargot was Chef Pasquer’s appetizer, Stuffed Icy-Blue Mussels with Almond Escargot Butter. The fulsome and yielding mussels were deliciously stuffed with breadcrumbs and Mediterranean herbs in a piping hot Almond Butter sauce making a dish worthy of standing on its own and not in the shadow of its conch-housed cousin.

Scallops and foie gras delivered their own distinct flavor rewards. The scallops, soft as clouds furnished the unmediated flavors of the sea. The foie gras was predictably rich, but had an added dimension of tang that deepened its earthy flavors.

Seared yellowfin tuna came perfectly rare with a side of anchovy caper salad.

Chocolate suicide was a flourless decadently creamy triumph by Chef Pasquer, who is also Trix’s pastry chef.

Polite and knowledgeable service, expertly executed quality ingredients and moderate tabs make Trix a fun, low-key restaurant with flavor rewards, and a trip on the overly-congested L line well worthwhile.