BY BETH KAISERMAN
With fast-casual dining now ubiquitous, it’s nice to sit down to a proper French meal once in a while. La Sirene is tucked in a cozy pocket in an area called South Village, south of Greenwich Village and next to Chinatown. It’s a spot perfect for unwinding with a long meal of contemporary French cuisine.
At a press dinner last week, we had the chance to try a variety of menu items. While many of the dishes were a variation on classic French food, there are also many classics on board.
The best way to start any French meal is with
an order of roasted escargots in a garlicky, buttery sauce. The escargots at La Sirene were plump and bursting with flavor. The tools for escargots are actually very easy to use: one is for holding the hot shell, and the other simply for piercing the meat. Bread dipped in the buttery sauce was necessary and absolutely delicious. Another highlight was foie gras torchons, very decadent but actually on the lighter side in this case.
Each entree came with carrot puree, haricots vert, butternut squash and chayote squash. It was great having a variety of veggies to cut into the richness of the meat entrees. My entree was seared hanger steak with roasted garlic and parsley, and the meat had a nice char and crunchy crust. The showstopper though was the filet mignon entree, served with foie gras paté, shallots and a port and red wine truffle sauce. It boasts bold flavors while somehow remaining light and not overly filling.
That seemed to be the theme with a lot of the food at La Sirene – satisfying and incredibly flavorful without weighing you down.“French doesn’t necessarily mean heavy every time,”
Chef Didier Pawlicki said.
Of course there was room for dessert. All of the pastries are made by Pawlicki and are as fresh as they are in Paris. Nothing is made more than 48 hours in advance, with 48 being the absolute maximum. We had to have the tarte tatin dramatically flambéed, which always makes things more exciting. Unfortunately, that was the most disappointing dessert as it got too soggy in the caramel sauce. The chocolate profiteroles more than make up for it, filled with delicious homemade ice cream and topped with whipped cream. The choux chantilly were lovely and offered a lighter sweetness which I always love. Definitely do not skip dessert here.
Pawlicki opened La Sirene in 2007, his first of a few restaurants in the city. The restaurant has recently started serving lunch Fridays through Sundays.