Tofu House Warms the Body and Soul – Review of BCD Tofu House

BY BETH KAISERMAN

5 W 32nd St  New York, 10001
(212) 967-1900 / www.bcdtofu.com/

Friendly smiles greeted guests as I stepped into BCD Tofu House on opening night in late April. Delightful Korean fare was being prepared in the kitchen at BCD’s new bi-level restaurant in Koreatown.

Soon Tofu

Soon Tofu

Located at 5 W. 32nd St., BCD Tofu House (formerly down the street at 17 W. 32nd St.) is a popular fast casual restaurant that’s been around since 1996, with most of its locations in Southern California. The brand is known for its traditional Korean tofu soup, known as “Soon Tofu Soup.” This yummy, hearty bowl of pork tofu soup was the highlight of the night, made with chili powder, bean paste, tofu, cabbage and salt water. I chose the seafood version, with mussels and shrimp, as opposed to the pork one. Served piping hot, attentive servers came around with eggs, which we cracked into the clay pot bowl. Covered with the steaming hot soup and a ton of hot seafood, the egg cooks itself at the bottom of the bowl. Talk about feel-good food; this dish is amazingly tasty and healthy at the same time.

LA Galbi

LA Galbi

 We also tried LA Galbi, awesome BBQ short ribs with the bone on, my second favorite dish of the night. Other tastings included jabchae, glass noodles with vegetables and tofu, spicy raw crab, fried dumplings, shrimp potato rolls, and grilled tofu skewers.

Longtime BCD fan Helen Kang attended the event. Born in SoCal, she’s hooked on BCD’s tofu soup, and said that’s pretty much the norm in SoCal.

“If you’re going to go anywhere for tofu, that’s where you go,” she said.

She liked the layout of this new location, with its long wooden tables and chairs.

“The idea here is Korean traditional,” she said. “Wood is very important.”

BCD stands for “Buk-Chang-Dong,” a city known for its prosperity, according to a press release. The ribbon was cut on Thursday, and BCD Tofu House is now open to the public.

BCD Tofu House on Urbanspoon

 

Galli brings new meaning to brunch

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Galli
45 Mercer Street
SoHo
212.966.9288/gallirestaurant.com

Galli

Grapefruit @ Galli

If you close your eyes you can almost imagine yourself in the swank SoHo apartment you don’t have – a wide open space with 20 foot floor to ceiling windows, bathed in the morning sun as you sit at your breakfast table leisurely sipping a cappuccino and enjoying a croissant… At least that’s what I envisioned when I was delivered my cappuccino and croissant at Galli – a restaurant who prides itself on a neighborhood atmosphere serving Italian comfort food.

Galli launched its Buon Giorno menu this year, just in time for the first glimpse of Spring.  A light cafe style menu comprised mostly of fruit, yogurt, and pastries.  As I sat enjoying the simplicity of my half grapefruit sprinkled with raw sugar, I looked around the dining room to see only a few tables occupied – those who did have people at them were couples with young babies.  Although I had admittedly never put much thought into where a young couple with a new baby went if they wanted to treat themselves to brunch, I was happy to see that it was at Galli.  A type of safe haven – a family place accented by photographs from the owners’, Steve Gallo (Brio Downtown) and Michael Forrest, own family albums.

 

Galli2

House-made granola with Greek yogurt and berries @ Galli

Breakfast continued with fresh berries, Greek yogurt, and granola – a light and healthy way to start the day.  Bistro tables at the front of the restaurant near the bar are the perfect place to enjoy the homemade granola and the people watching of Mercer Street – the back dining room; the perfect place to hide out and soak up the sun streaming in from the skylights.
I often seek out neighborhood type places where I can enjoy breakfast without being rushed and leave not feeling like I just consumed my body weight in bacon and eggs or indulged in the all-you-can-drink brunch, which seems to run so rampant these days, leaving nothing of my Sunday but a sleepy lump on the couch.  After Galli, I am ready to take on the city – run those errands I have been meaning to run for the past three weeks or take a long walk to enjoy the beauty of the city at the first signs of spring.

Galli on Urbanspoon

What’s On… Clinton Street? (Between Stanton and Rivington)

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On… Clinton Street? (Between Stanton and Rivington)

Lower East Side

Clinton

Clinton Street’s way east address is deterrent for some, making the gentrification factor slightly less than other parts of the LES, but those who do venture to Clinton Street are pleasantly surprised to find a long a varied strip of food and nightlife destinations.  However, it wasn’t long ago that the Lower East Side’s underbelly called Clinton home.  It wasn’t until 1999 when Wylie Dufresne helped to put 71 Clinton on the map that things started to turn around.  Clinton Street’s not so recent past also warrants a tour. It was on Clinton Street that Fredericka “Marm” Mandelbaum’s original storefront stood. From here, Mandelbaum saw millions of dollars worth of stolen goods pass through in the mid 19th century. She also ran a school for aspiring pickpockets and robbers which is said to have been right next door to a police precinct.

35 Clinton Street – Donnybrook

This Irish pub seated at the corner of Clinton and Stanton can usually be caught under maximum capacity (which is more to say than for most bars in the LES) bringing those who like a casual drink with good friends back time and time again.  A 12 – 15 dollar brunch special serves its purpose in a ‘hair of the dog’ sort of way.
Donnybrook on Urbanspoon
 

37 Clinton Street – Atlas Cafe

The H & H bagels served at Atlas Cafe make it a worthwhile stop if you’re in the area around breakfast time.  Other menu offerings include quiches and paninis with a variety of vegetarian offerings. Coffee suffices and free WiFi is another selling point for most.

Atlas Café on Urbanspoon

58 Clinton Street – Temple of Ankh

Most agree that Temple of Ankh is nothing to get excited about – but really, what hookah bar lives up to the hype anyway?  Food, service, and decor-wise it’s pretty much unanimous that this place lives up to the standard of other so-so hookah places although the milk and Sprite hookah varieties do add some unconventional fun to the mix.

 

50 Clinton Street – wd~50

Wylie Dufresne’s acclaimed restaurant wd~50 celebrates 10 years this year.  In case you haven’t heard – WD~50’s Wylie Dufresne is somewhat of a mad scientist when it comes to your dinner plate.  Molecular gastronomy paired with precision and attention to detail make for a culinary experience you won’t soon forget.  To celebrate WD~50’s 10th anniversary, try a tasting menu from some of the past 10 years’ best dishes!

wd-50 on Urbanspoon

63 Clinton Street – Fatta Cuckoo

The seasonal menu at Fatta Cuckoo is all about coming together to have a good time over good food.  Comfort food focused items like fried chicken or their signature key lime pie comprise the menu and an enticing cocktail selection rounds out the scene.  The “drunch” brunch special is what keeps most people coming back – at $25 for 3 quality cocktails and an entree, who can complain? – Even when you’re sitting on top of your next door neighbor.

Fatta Cuckoo on Urbanspoon

 

63 Clinton Street – Cube Sushi

The BYO status of Cube 63 has regulars coming back for a boozy good time before a night on the town, but can’t seem to keep new clientele looking for satisfying sushi due to its lack of fresh ingredients.  Try to stay away if you’re not looking to lose your lunch.

Cube Sushi Restaurant on Urbanspoon

 

67 Clinton Street – Barramundi

The always crowded, kitschy bar who once called Ludlow home is now tucked away on Clinton waiting to be rediscovered. You’ll want to try their sangria and stay for their house infused vodkas.  A 2 for 1 happy hour every night until 8 sweetens the deal.  Through a door in the back lies a secret upstairs for a more refined crowd than downstairs…

Barramundi on Urbanspoon

 

67 Clinton Street (Upstairs) – 2nd Floor on Clinton

A quiet library setting for no more than groups for 4 awaits up the stairs from energetic Barramundi.  Sip artfully crafted cocktails and enjoy artisan chocolate truffles by Roni – Sue.  Ring the bell next to the door marked ‘private’ to be escorted upstairs to this haven of sorts nestled deep in the Lower East Side.

*2nd Floor on Clinton is only open Wednesday – Saturday.

 

68 Clinton Street – Pig and Khao

Leah Cohen of Top Chef fame and the Fatty crew have teamed up to create Pig and Khao – a modern take on Southeast Asian cooking.  Stop by for classic Filipino favorites like sizzling sisig (pig head) or a tasty Thai red curry.  This gem isn’t quite on the radar yet, so stop by while the waits are short!

*The $1 beer happy hour is one of the best deals in the city.

 
Pig & Khao on Urbanspoon
 

69 Clinton Street – Prosperity Dumpling

Another one of the best deals in the city – Prosperity’s pork and chive dumplings come 4 for $1 at this LES location (5/$1 at their Eldridge St. locale).  What this place lacks in decor and service, the dumplings more than make up for in value and flavor.  Stop out of your way for these things, you’ll be glad you did.

 
Prosperity Dumpling on Urbanspoon

71 Clinton Street – Izakaya DoDomPa

This Japanese pub is exactly what the doctor ordered in this part of town.  Quality izakaya at fair prices make DoDomPa a great stop if you’re looking to fill your belly and have a few drinks with friends before a night on the town.  Their Nagoya chicken wings are stand out and fans say they are just happy they can travel somewhere other than St. Marks to enjoy the food and atmosphere of quality Izakaya.

 

71 Clinton Street – San Marzano

The $40 all you can eat and drink special is what has rowdy groups coming back for time and time again, but it’s the pizza with namesake San Marzano tomatoes that keeps us coming back.

Go at an off time and enjoy the regular menu with regular people (read: not drunk and angry) or stop by on the weekend until 2am for an always satisfying slice.

 

San Marzano on Urbanspoon

72 Clinton Street – Cibao

You won’t stop by Cibao for its decor or service, but instead to sit down to a good, hearty meal rounded out with rice, beans, and tostones.  It’s a Dominican diner, unglorified and unapologetic and doing its thing for decades.  If tripe is your thing – don’t miss out on their Mondongo.

*Planning a party?  Cibao also caters.

San Marzano on Urbanspoon

 

 

A Catfish Grows in Brooklyn – Review of Catfish

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Catfish

Inside Catfish – Photo courtesy of Catfish.

Catfish
1433 Bedford Ave
Crown Heights, Brooklyn
347-305-3233 /catfishnyc.com/

On an underdeveloped stretch of Bedford Ave. in Crown Heights, one that I’m sure won’t stay that way for long due to the rapidly evolving Brooklyn landscape, Catfish opens its doors daily for weekend brunch, lunch, and dinner of the New Orleans persuasion.  Fair prices ensure a neighborhood vibe drawing neighborhood people.  Catfish is a place to linger at the bar on a lazy Sunday or a place for brunch with a friend; a place where it’s easy to become a “regular”.  In the summer, a breezy front entrance and a comfortable garden out back will be the perfect places to soak up the sun, enjoy a beer, and nosh on some oysters or clams on the half shell.

Owners, Maxx Colson, Aaron Giroux, and Luke Wheeler could very well be mistaken for members of your local rock band – the kind that girls swoon over- but instead met while working at a DUMBO gastropub together.  They’re young, hungry, and ready to do whatever it takes to make Catfish all that it can be.

While working a limited menu for the first few months, Catfish now offers a full menu with all your bayou favorites.  Po’ boys, Jambalaya, and gumbo stand front and center with a New Orleans style cornbread (served with cinnamon butter) that can’t be missed.  A conservatively priced whiskey and scotch list as well as a thoughtful draft and bottled beer selection round out the menu and ensure that you’ll stick around for more than one drink.

I hope Catfish will appeal to both the new residents of Crown Heights as well as the old.  A place where differences will melt away with shots of rye whiskey in the name of a good ‘ole fashion, good time.

Catfish on Urbanspoon

A Flavor Tour of the Pan American Highway – Review of Oficina Latina

BY ELENA MANCINI

24 Prince St.
Nolita
(646) 381-2555 / www.oficinalatinanyc.com/

Inspired by 1950s road races on the Pan-American Highway,  Oficina Latina recreates the feel and flavors of the Latin American countries along this famed 30,000 mile highway that stretches from Argentina to Alaska.  The restaurant pays homage to this history with vintage race car photographs, original helmets and lots of sundry memorabilia and an original menu and extensive list of spirits drawn exclusively from the regions along the southern regions of the Pan-American highway. Thus the lively full-service bar here features a selection of 100-plus tequilas and mezcals, 100-plus rums, piscos and cachacas, and a South American wine list. For fans of mixed drinks, any margarita would be a surefire here, and the ginger lychee mojito ($13) yields its own flavorful drinking pleasures. Wines by the glass are in the $10 range.

Oficina Latina

Ginger Lychee Mojito at Oficina Latina

Oficina Latina 2

 

In the hands of lesser restaurateurs, a restaurant like this might have turned out gimmicky or akin to theme-centric restaurant that is often found among corporate franchise, but not so with Oficina Latina. It completely eschews the soulless cookie-cutter approach. Owners Max Busato and Paolo Votano have poured their passion into Oficina Latina making hand-on decisions about every decorative nuance of the restaurant from the reclaimed wood around its bar fixtures to its 1920s original tin ceiling and the vintage Latin-American religious artifacts and kitsch that adorn its fireplace and communal dining area. A cursory glance at the menu will reveal that equally judicious scrutiny went into the menu composition here.  Encompassing a wide range of tapas and pinchos and a mix of meat and fish dishes, the menu is expansive and ethnically balanced to ensure that it reflects all of cultures of Latin America. Selections and combinations reveal not a superficial approach to an arbitrary concept, but  a passionate pursuit for inclusion and authenticity. Chef Abraham Trinidad executes the expansive menu with talent and finesse. 

Following is a rundown of some of the dishes I had during a recent dinner:

The dinner opened with a basket of crispy plantain chips and habanero sauce. An addictive combination which required restraint in order to proceed with actual meal or the luxury of abandon with the restaurant’s cocktail list.

Oficina Latina 4

Ceviche de Calamari y Vieras

 

The Calamari and Scallop Ceviche was exceptional. Fresh and cooked to the optimal texture , it was a flavorful and generously portioned starter.

Pulpo a la Parrilla

Pulpo a la Parrilla

The grilled octopus was expertly charred and was butter-like tender to the bite. It came paired with roasted white potatoes and dressed with a Extra Virgin olive oil and cilantro, and was my favorite dish, and not only because I love octopus.

Tuna Skewers and Grilled Mixed Vegetables with Fruit on a Skewer are also great tapas choices here. They come minimally seasoned and perfectly grilled allowing the flavors of the ingredients shine through.

Abrebocas

Abrebocas

Fried blood sausage, chorizo and arepitas served with chipotle mayonnaise, also known are abrebocas, or appetizers at Oficina Latina was both hearty and tasty and a dish that championed Latin-American flavors. Particularly enjoyable about this dish were the lean and smoky slices of grilled chorizo and the crispy Venezuelan-style arepitas. The blood sausage was tender and yielded its content to the first fork poke.

Braised lamb Shank with slow-cooked vegetables and plantain puree was a beautifully composed dish and a great choice for a wintry night.

Tres Leches

Tres Leches

Passion and Love Shot

Passion and Love Shot

The Tres Leches Cake here–also prepared by Chef Trinidad– was a lighter version of the typically much richer Mexican dessert, and  highly enjoyable. The pleasures were compounded as it came served with a shot of “passion and love.” Evoking sinister indulgences, A miniature decanter of artisanal Venezuelan rum is served  on a mirror platter with an orange wedge and rows of ground coffee, cinnamon and raw sugarcane. The idea is to chase the rum shot with the orange rubbed in a mixture of the coffee, cinnamon and sugar. The result is one of gratifying warmth. You must experience it for yourself.

Oficina Latina has a young, energetic vibe and lends itself to fun and informal gatherings.

Tapas are in the $8-$15 range. Entrees in the $20-$23 range.

Oficina Latina is open daily for a 12$ prix-fixe brunch ($15 with a cocktail), Monday-Sunday.
Happy Hour is from 4-7, Monday – Friday.
 
Oficina Latina on Urbanspoon

 

Serving Locally Sourced World Cuisine with a Side of Neighborhood Vintage – Review of Trix

BY ELENA MANCINI

147 Bedford Avenue
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
http://www.trixnyc.com/

A stone’s toss away from the bustle and human bottle-necking of the Bedford and North 7th L train subway stop stands Trix, an original restaurant that pays  tribute to the vestigial industrial character of Williamsburg’s Northside.

Trix - Art

With original artwork that melds garage with lyrical, encompassing portraiture, industrial scultptures and craftsmanship by Minneapolis-based artist, James Johnson, Trix exudes unforced bohemian appeal. The aesthetic concept behind Trix is the result of  restaurateur, Veso Buntic (also owner of Anabale Basin in Long Island City) and Johnson’s close collaboration. A venture that began in 2011, both artist and entrepreneur wanted to incorporate visual artifacts that would evoke the restaurant’s previous occupant and a nod the the Williamsburg of a grittier era. Belinda’s Go-Go Lounge inhabited the site until 1987.  Belinda’s occupied the space until 1987, and is memorialized with stained-glass lettering on Trix’s storefront and tasteful portraiture in the restaurant’s interior.  

Trix -Bar Detail

 

Trix-Onyx Bar

Trix

As to the interior, sheets of gray metal span the length and breadth of the ceiling. Flamingo mosaics adorn the base of a sumptuously sculptured bar. A wave like structure in pewter forms the base and 100 year old lit alabaster spans the bar top. With arachnid sculptures hanging from the walls, the expansive bar weds Goth with Miami deco. If the visual effects of the bar will draw you in, Trix’s winning speakeasy-style cocktail list designed by  Dusan Zaric of Manhattan’s Employee’s Only and an eclectic wine list definitely want to make you stay a while.  The Amelia cocktail prepared with fresh blackberry juice, elderflower and vodka is a wonderfully smooth way to downshift after a long day at work or to spark a night out. For a more warming pick-up, opt for the Peach Smash, made with Makers Mark and Creme de Peche with lemon juice. Most cocktails are under $15 and closer to $10. They can be had at a discounted price in addition to $3 beers and $5 select wines during Trix’s  Monday – Friday (4-8) happy hour. $1 oysters with a complexly fiery harissa sauce complete this happy hour bonanza.

Pescetarians and seafood lovers will find themselves cheerfully rewarded with a locally-sourced French-inspired menu with global influences executed by Chef Ian Pasquer. However, the offerings hold ample selections for the meat-and-poultry-oriented as well. A great deal of Trix’s  fish and seafood is sourced by D’Artagnan in Manhattan. Small plates range from $6-$12. Entrees range from the low 20s to $25. Desserts are under $10.

Trix-3

Honey-tenderized grilled octopus salad was an enjoyable small plate. Optimally-charred and supremely tender, the octopus rested atop a bed of aged  balsamic dressed watercress making it a highly recommendable starter-choice. Mushroom polenta is a grounding and tasty vegetarian alternative. Perfectly crisp and delicate wedges of polenta are perched atop a bed of cremini mushrooms in a white wine reduction. Shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano tie the flavors and textures together.

Trix2

A felicitous adaptation of escargot was Chef Pasquer’s appetizer, Stuffed Icy-Blue  Mussels with Almond Escargot Butter. The fulsome and yielding mussels were deliciously stuffed with breadcrumbs and Mediterranean herbs in a piping hot Almond Butter sauce making a dish worthy of standing on its own and not in the shadow of its conch-housed cousin.

Scallops and foie gras delivered their own distinct flavor rewards. The scallops, soft as clouds furnished the unmediated flavors of the sea. The foie gras was predictably rich, but had an added dimension of tang that deepened its earthy flavors.

Seared yellowfin tuna came perfectly rare with a side of anchovy caper salad.

Chocolate suicide was a flourless decadently creamy triumph by Chef Pasquer, who is also Trix’s pastry chef.

Polite and knowledgeable service, expertly executed quality ingredients and moderate tabs make Trix a fun, low-key restaurant with flavor rewards, and a trip on the overly-congested L line well worthwhile.

 

Trix on Urbanspoon

A Decade of Distinguished Greek Dining in Tribeca – Revisiting Thalassa

BY ELENA MANCINI

Thalassa
179 Franklin St.
Tribeca
212-941-7661 / thalassanyc.com/ 

The luxurious high ceilinged restaurant that brought refined Greek seafood fare cuisine to Tribeca  in the wake of 9-11  celebrated its tenth anniversary this past November. Ten years onward from those harrowing months in 2002, and Thalassa is performing at the top of its game. Not that the challenge-riddled decade culminating in the global financial crisis of 2008 has been smooth sailing all the way for Thalassa, which TGP reviewed in 2011, but the restaurant’s seasoned tradition in hospitality including large-scale banquet events  and commitment to culinary excellence and fresh, quality ingredients .

Chef Ralphael Abrahante grilling fagri.

The key players behind Thalassa’s success are Executive Chef Ralphael Abrahante, Wine Director, Steve Makris and Director of Operations and Banquet Manager, Tasso Zapanti. Having worked in Thalassa’s kitchen since its infancy, Abrahante rose to the  rank of Executive Chef in 2007.  A lover of seafood, and having worked in Greek restaurants before, Abrahante was a natural fit for Thalassa. Passionate about seafood, he elaborated upon the many considersations in handling seafood, and the fact that there are many more ways to cut seafood than beef. He meets with fish purveyors daily to make his selections. He shared that the pressures of the current economy have strained the fish market. As a result “wild edibles are not as common now,” and the current climate demands conscious and knowledgeable purchasing choices. “Often times purveyors don’t even know or see what they are selling.” This was also manifest in a story that broke in the NYT several weeks ago about the mislabeling of fish. Decidedly critical to Thalassa’s integrity to its brand of authentic Mediterranean seafood restaurant has  been Makris family-owned Mediterranean food importing company, Fantis Foods, which is responsible for supplying Thalassa with many of its quality imports including its noteworthy Cretan olive oil, artisanal cheeses and imported fish. Makris is also the man behind Thalassa’s award-winning wine list, which is comprised of over 12,000 bottles. Committed to championing Greek wines, wines by the glass are exclusively Greek here, and extensive enough to match nearly every wine palate.

Set foot into its generous foyer and expansive bar area and the transportive Aegean atmosphere that Thalassa exudes is experienced instantaneously. Soothing maritime hues, mood lighting, a striking 15ft. white marble bar conspire with a relaxed chic decor to conjure a perfect balance between classic contemporary and evocative. The luxurious space, which consists of an extensive main dining room, a lower level wine room and a gallery loft is the frequent site of private receptions and corporate parties that are fastidiously coordinated by Zapanti. The seasoned banquet manager has witnessed more than a few wedding proposals that have taken place at Thalassa turn into Thalassa-hosted wedding banquets.

While Abrahante’s dishes will stimulate and elate your palate, Thalassa’s ambiance and hospitality will attend to massaging your other senses with charming wait staff that will offer a genuine welcome sans corporate script, weekly live music and the enticing aroma of olive oil on your plate.

Assorted Greek olives and fava bean puree

 

Begin any meal here with some items from the variety of mezes. The smartest way to do this would be to avail yourself of Thalassa’s newly-minted Happy Hour deal, which offers 1/2 on select Greek wines and cocktails, from 5:30 – 7:00, Monday-Friday. Enjoy a glass of Greek wine, the dry and citrusy, Assyrtiko is my personal favorite for both dinner and aperitif, or choose from an extensive cocktail list peppered with Hellenic flavors such as Ouzo Mojitos ($13).

 

Grilled Octopus

 


The seafood menu is extensive and includes a variety of Mediterranean varieties. Entrees range from $29 – $50. In terms of  appetizers,  grilled octopus (click on its photo above for recipe) and the Maine Diver Sea Scallops ($22) are transcendent here. The octopus tentacles come lightly charred and velvet-tender to the bite, thanks to Chef Abrahante’s painstaking technique of massaging the tentacles for 15-20 minutes before grilling.  The large, juicy scallops are wrapped in Kataifi filo and dressed with a delicate sheep’s milk butter and kalamata balsamic reduction 

Grilled Fagri

Prepared with micro greens and a hint of truffle oil, the Colossal Crab salad ($20) will not steer you wrong. Meaty and lightly seasoned, the texture and big sea food flavors are able to really shine through.

During one of my most recent visits, I was fortunate enough to sample the fagri (akin to a wild red snapper) from Greece that Chef Abrahante (see photo above) grilled on live charcoal with a simple herb olive oil baste and sprinklings of sea salt.

Varlhona Chocolate Cake


Do not let the seafood feast deter you from ordering dessert! Chef Abrahante prepares a variety of traditional Greek desserts such as my favorite: citrus custard kataifi drizzled with honey and pistacchios and international favorites such as Varlhona chocolate cake.

Home of Manhattan’s Best Banh Mi Sandwich – Review of Sao Mai

BY ELENA MANCINI

203 First Ave.
East Village
(212) 358-8880 / Sao Mai 

East of the East Village bustle and trendiness, this family-run East Village Vietnamese restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare and the best Banh Mi Sandwiches on the Manhattan side of the East River.

Vegetarian Bahn Mi

Available in six varieties including pho, sliced pork, grilled chicken and vegetarian, these sandwiches make a quick, nutritious, flavor-packed meal that’s easy on the wallet (priced between $6-$7). The Bahn Mi are prepared on baguettes are consistently fresh and crusty with a soft and chewy middle. Independent of the filling you choose, the kitchen always strikes the right balance between bread and ingredients. Their vegetarian Bahn Mi is among my favorite comfort-food lunches. Prepared on two warm halves of choice baguette, they’re stuffed with toothsome strands of sauteed bok choy, straw mushrooms, seedless cucumbers, shredded carrot and abundant swaths of cilantro, the sandwiches and seasoned with lemongrass,  sriracha mayonnaise, that provides a subtle and reverberating pitch of complex heat. In sum, it’s a light, filling lunch that delivers high-flavor rewards.

Pho’ Sao Mai

Front: Summer Rolls; Far: Spring Rolls

Lest one think Sao Mi is just about Bahn Mi, flavor mavens and fans of traditional Vietnamese fare will find other  sections of its menu will prove well worth exploring. The Pho Sao Mai will not disappoint. A flavorful broth, rich in tender strips of brisket, sprouts, rice noodles and a medley of herbs will consistently hit the spot. Adding appeal to  Sao Mi’s attractions is its steal of a lunch menu, which includes the choice of an appetizer, entree and a soft drink, all for $10. Sweetening things further,  both the Bahn Mi and the Pho are included in this deal!

Ga Gary – Chicken Curry

With a wide variety of vegetarian options on its menu, Sao Mai is also a smart choice for a low-key dinner that guarantees value, quality and flavor. Pity that wait staff has not yet mastered the walk-in dinner crowd on weekends. During these times, the  friendly service  can turn into a source of frustration for those who do not suffer extended waits and uneven food delivery times lightly.

Sao Mai on Urbanspoon

Honoring Burgundy Roots with Amour – Chef Claude Godard and Jeanne & Gaston

BY ELENA MANCINI

Jeanne & Gaston
212 West 14th Street
West Village
(212) 675-3773 / jeanneandgaston.com

The cuisine of Burgundy occupies center stage at Jeanne & Gaston, a West Village yearling that breezily weds French country charm with urban understatement. The restaurant is refreshing addition to a neighborhood that in certain respects suffers from a glut of generically trendy and overpriced restaurants, and is a keeper for its inspired menu that features Burgundy specialities with a twist as well as a number of brasserie favorites in an elegant, unpretentious downtown setting and favorable pricing. Casting the spotlight on his Burgundy roots is chef-owner restaurateur Claude Godard. Godard hails from a long line of chefs, starting with his great grandfather. From early on, food played a central role in his life, and with Jeanne & Gaston, Godard pays homage to both the cuisine of his native region of his birth and to his restaurateur grandparents, after whom Jeanne & Gaston is named.

 

Chef Claude Godard

A member of the Maitres Cuisiniers de France and inducted into l’Academie Culinaire de France, highly prestigious culinary associations, Godard completed his formal training at the School of Culinary Arts in Paris and worked with a number of renowned chefs in France,including Alain Dutournier and Jean-Pierre Vigato. From these chefs Godard took away the emphasis on the freshness and quality of ingredients, and this constitutes the backbone of Godard’s culinary approach. Godard enjoys cooking with fish and seafood. He cites Paul Bocuse as a vital influence on him for his democratic approach to chefing and opening the kitchen doors to chefs of his generation with his lighter style of cooking.

In the late nineties, a combination of curiosity and ambition inspired Godard to leave his native France to come to New York City to ply his trade. Upon arriving to New York City, Godard dove right into his dream and opened his first Manhattan restaurant, Madison Bistro in 1998, which is still going strong today. In hindsight, the extremely shy and  humble Godard admits that going straight to opening his own restaurant might not have been the easiest way to go about establishing himself in New York City, but the exceptionally talented and multiply occupied chef (In addition to serving as Executive Chef at both of his restaurants, Godard is also the wine director and pastry chef of Jeanne & Gaston) has no regrets.

Following are a number of the dishes from Jeanne & Gaston’s seasonal menu that I particularly enjoyed:

Escargot a la Bordelaise

The Escargot a la Bordelaise (13.00) – plated in a traditional escargot platter and bathed in a rich coat of piping herbs and spices, the escargot were fragrantly fresh, yielding to the bite and seasoned to perfection. The flavors and textures reached a pitch that quietly transported me to the charmed corners of Western Europe.

Quenelle

Simply put: the Quenelle (20.00), prepared with Pike Mousseline in Nantua Sauce was outstanding. What I found particularly extraordinary about this dish, apart from the freshness of the ingredients and the harmony of the flavors was the fact that the perfectly executed cloud-like texture of the quenelle was so flavor-rich. It was geniously served in a thick wine sauce with cremini mushrooms. Executed in this way, would cause me to order this dish again and again and again.

Duck Magret

The Duck Magret was served with a side of tempura vegetables and a mango emulsion. The duck was hearty, moist and velvety tender. A perfectly crisp side of mushroom and asparagus tempura accompanied the duck along with a spoonful of mango chutney. The mango had a lovely cleansing effect and brightened the dish like a burst of summer.

Poached Anjou Pear filled with Chocolate Mousse

Poached Anjou Pear filled with Chocolate Mousse

The Poached  Chocolate Mousse Pear was a glorious fall dessert. The presentation of this dish alone was mirth-provoking. However, the real reward was delivered by the supple chocolate mousse filling couched into a firmly poached Anjou pear–resulting in a truly elegant and satisfying pairing.

A great way to experience Jeanne & Gaston is with a three course $40.00 prix fixe, which includes all menu items–an incredible deal not only for Manhattan, but for the caliber of the dishes.

In addition, a 3-course $29 pre-set prixe fixe dinner menu has been recently introduced.

A full bar and wine list offer specialty cocktails, and global wines by the bottle, glass and carafe with a focus on French wines.

Every night features Happy Hour from 4:00 PM until closing on specialty cocktails and select wines by the glass.

For Chef Godard’s recipe for Chicken Crepe Roulade, click here.

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A Flavor Journey Both Exciting and Refined – Review of Mint

BY ELENA MANCINI

Mint
150 E 50th St.

Midtown East
212-644-8888 / mintny.com

A mood-lit contemporary decor coupled with spearmint hued trim lighting conspire to create a soothing, romantic vibe. As gratifying as the ambiance at Mint may be, it is an inspired palette of  traditional regional Indian and Indo-Asian fusion dishes and an supremely flavorful signature mint sauce created by Executive Chef-restaurateur, Gary Sikka, that delivers a paean to the restaurant’s namesake herb and the cuisines of the Indian sub-continent.

Signature Mint and Tamarind Sauce Platter at Mint

Basket of Warm Naan Bread at Mint

Attentive servers welcome guests with complimentary dipping bowls of Sikka’s signature mint and tamarind sauces optimized for dipping. Both sauces pair wonderfully with a share-friendly basket of warm naan bread ($5), which can be ordered plain or herb-flavored. The rosemary naan is a personal favorite.

Chicken Seekh Kebab at Mint

Vegetable samosas and Aloo Tikki (spicy potato fenugreek cakes) are excellent vegetarian starter choices. The samosas were consistently crisp to perfection and had a tasty, paste-like vegetable filling. The Aloo Tikki consisted of spicy potato fenugreek cakes were hearty and had a lovely, mild fragrance to them.

For the carnivorously inclined, the Chicken Seekh Kebab and the  Jhinga Balchao are not to be missed. The Seekh Kebab consist of succulent, herb-seasoned ground chicken grilled to the point of glistening with moisture. The texture achieved delivers a sausage-like snap with every bite. The Jhinga Balchao is a dish composed of crispy shrimp coated in a spicy pickled vegetable sauce are enjoyably hot and complex in flavor, and perfect to spark an appetite.

Navratan Korma at Mint

Among the entrees, the chili fish packs a pleasurable knock-out punch. A delicate, moist white fish coated in a light crisp coat of batter is bathed in a tasty herb-infused chili sauce that delivers heat without the tongue-numbing fire that chili sauces can often deliver.  On the milder side without sacrificing flavor are the Navratan Korma and the Saag Paneer. The Navratan Korma is a lovely stew composed of nine vegetables in a cashew sauce. The herbal richness of coriander, ginger and turmeric in this dish played favorably against the creamy cashew sauce and the various consistencies provided by the assortment of green and root vegetables.  The Saag Paneer is a spinach based dish  thickened with Indian cottage cheese. Both dishes are best consumed with a platter of Mint’s fluffy fragrant Basmati rice. All dishes are generously portioned and readily lend themselves to a communal dining experience.

Gulab Jamun

To close, Chef Sikka recommended Gulab Jamun, a traditional dessert consisting of a golf-ball sized orb made of milk and warm cottage cheese, and thus light and spongy in texture, set in a bed of rosewater syrup and pistachio sprinkles.  The straightforward concoction offers sweet satisfaction evocative of homespun flavors.

Armed with a full, seated bar, a respectable wine list and reasonable prices (appetizers range between $7-$14; entrees are in the $14-$22), Mint is a surefire bet for a smart-casual, palate-pleasing, non-stuffy lunch or dinner experience in Midtown East.

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