Tasty, rib-sticking convivality in Astoria – Review of Ovelia Psistaria

BY ELENA MANCINI

Ovelia’s Psistaria
34-01 30th Ave, Astoria, NY 11103
718.721.7217 / ovelia-nyc.com/


Sesame Coated Feta Cubes – Photo courtesy of Judith Klein-Rich

 

Barbequed Ribs - Photo courtesy of Judith Klein-Rich

At a recent blog-relaunch event in honor of Fooditka.com (formerly Foodista), I had the pleasure of feasting on inventive Greek-inspired dishes with four smart, food-savvy women at Ovelia’s and falling in a lit bit more in love with Astoria. The woman of the evening was Judith Klein-Rich, Founder and Editor of Fooditka. Fooditka is a dynamic food blog that features many of Judith’s recipes, cooking experiments, Astoria-centered restaurant reviews and a variety of food-centered stories.   The blog’s new name is a playful homage to Slovakia, where Judith was born and spent part of her childhood. I was thrilled to be on her guest list, and my attendance at her Ovelia Psistaria event was a great opportunity for me to enjoy some modern Greek flavors in NYC’s flagship Greek neighborhood of  Astoria, and to commune with fellow food bloggers, in physical real-time. How nice it feels to write about a social experience that cannot be preceded by the adjective “virtual!” As a result, my new foodie friends include Erin of Gluten-Free Fun, Lindsay of TheLunchBelle.com and Meg of Harmonious Bellies. Meg is also a regular contributor to We heart Astoria along with Judith.

 THE VENUE:

“Ovelia Psistaria,” as its web site instructs, connotes the ritual of cooking lamb on a spit on an open flame and the type of place in which such food is served. Despite its traditional sounding name, however, Ovelia’s offers a contemporary spin on Greek cuisine fused with local New York flair and flavors. It features a happening bar scene in the front of the establishment, seasonal patio dining and the dining area champions a hip, contemporary decor that meshes classic Modernism with with funky kitsch: think murals evocative of Braque and Dali flanked by Patricia-Field-inspired sculptures. It’s odd, but it works with Ovelia’s fun and energetic vibe.  Its extensive menu encompasses brunch, lunch and dinner and includes classic casseroles as well as fish and meat options. Dinner entrees range roughly from $15 – $32, lunch items are mostly below the $15 range. The restaurant offers vegetarian and vegan options as well as gluten-free alternatives. Gracious chef and co-owner, Peter Giannakas, was quick in providing ready gluten-free substitutions for Erin of Gluten Free Fun, which included cucumber slices instead of pita and ribs dressed in gluten-free barbeque sauce.


THE MEAL:

A round of dry rosé wine sangria kicked off an evening of hearty grazing and foodie-pow-wowing and information sharing. The sangria, made with a dry, yet pleasingly light rosé stood out for its confetti-like sprinklings of freshly cut kiwi and strawberry. Each sip of it delivered a lively  burst of summer freshness to the palate. Next came an abundant spread of Greek and American appetizers.  There was grilled halloumi on a bed of prosciutto, kafteri poppers, which consisted of feta and grilled jalapeno, fried, semolina-coated calamari  feta cubes coated in black-and-white sesame seeds and a hint of honey, grilled loukaniko, a delicious house-made sausage flavored with fennel, savory seasonings and orange zest. The loukaniko is a Giannakas family recipe, and prepared by chef and co-owner, Peter Giannaka’s parents, Ioannis and Evangelia. The loukaniko was also used for the generous appetizer serving of corn dog buttons. Ensconced in a savory coating of fried cornmeal, and in dainty coin size servings,  these were the most gourmet corn dogs that I have ever seen or tasted.  There was a plate of warm, slightly tangy pita bread and an addictive pretzel bread made by The loukaniko and the sesame-coated feta cubes were my favorites. The loukaniko, my Astoria friends enthusiastically informed me, is also a beloved fixture on Ovelia’s weekend brunch menu. It also bears noting here that Ovelia’s appetizer options includes many traditional Greek mezes including taramosalata, eggplant salad.

More than happily sated on this course alone, little did I know that the evening still held voluminous platters of ribs and grilled meats and rich sides in store for us. There were heaping trays of succulent bbq’ed ribs seductively dressed in barbeque sauce. The smoky-flavored meat was so tender it slid right off the bone, and was not the least bit fatty. There was chicken: deep fried and grilled. I savored both. The fried chicken had a crisp and non-greasy pepper-seasoned buttermilk crust and was cooked to perfection. The grilled variety was tender lemon-flavored juiciness buried under a thin coat of rewarding blistered char. The sides included many a nod to Fourth of July and Thanksgiving goodness with mac-n-cheese, mashed potatoes with gravy, and sweet potatoes sprinkled with marshmellows and a side of Greek style sauteed spinach and lemon potatoes for good ethnic measure. Needless to say, the collective state of food-induced coma that ensued after this delicious feast would not even allow for the word dessert to be uttered. Unspoken consensus turned the word into table taboo.

FINAL ANALYSIS:

The company and the food made me feel instantly rewarded for having attended the Fooditka event. The fare, pricing and vibe at Ovelia clearly warrant returning to there. As for the neighborhood it’s located it in–an Astoria artery that is lined with the nostalgically priced fish-mongers, green grocers, Greek cafeterias– it made me heart Astoria even more than before. And I will be sure to explore the area that Harmonious Bellies’ Meg Cotner, referred to as the “food nexus of Astoria,” that is to say neighboring block of 31st Ave. and 34th. St.

This post is participating in the Astoria Blog Carnival, hosted by We Heart Astoria.

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Ovelia on Urbanspoon

What’s on… West 56th Street between 6th and 7th Avenue

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

It’s all about quality over quantity on this block, where the pickin’s are slim but solid.  The proximity to Carnegie Hall and touristy Times Square as well as the offices of Midtown make this block both convenient and busy during peak weekday lunch hours. Multi use skyscrapers, City Spire, Carnegie Hall Tower, and Metropolitan Tower all have entrances (although not necessarily main) on this block.

Although the official address of this juice chain lies on 6th avenue, there is an entrance on 56th street.  In addition to refreshing smoothies, Jamba Juice also serves the community by raising money for local schools’ healthy lunch programs and neighborhood gardens.

Midday, Saturday a line at Burger Joint @ Le Parker Meridian

119 West 56th Street – Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridian
Staying at Le Parker? Just passing by? Whatever your reason is, if you’re in the neighborhood Burger Joint is a must if you’re in the area. Grilled over an open flame and topped however you like (within the boundaries of standard burger fare), these burgers are the real deal and easily make the top 5 in the City.  Come early to get a seat in the graffiti-ed space, as the burgers are best done right off the flame.

Cheeseburger at Burger Joint

119 West 56th Street – Knave at Le Parker Meridian

A grand entrance – Knave @ Le Parker Meridian

The grandiose space that Knave inhabits in the lobby of Le Parker Meridian is both Gothic and modern and is a restorative place to sit and enjoy a cappuccino midday.  Although open for cocktails until 12am daily, the hefty price tag seems barely justifiable when the scene isn’t the most happening and the baristas are the ones making your cocktails.
Knave at Le Parker Meridien on Urbanspoon

119 West 56th Street – Norma’s at Le Parker Meridian

Norma’s Chocolate Decadence French Toast – Photo courtesy of La Buona Forchetta

As cheap as (the above-mentioned) Burger Joint is, Norma’s is not.  However, it is
arguably (and winning 9 times out of 10) the finest brunch in town.  Open until 3pm every day, Norma’s is strictly brunch, but no one’s complaining with menu items like the Waz-Za waffle, a decadent waffle filled with fruit and topped with a crispy Brûlée or the Foie Gras Brioche French Toast (‘nuff said).  Come for a treat, leave with a stuffed stomach and empty wallet. 
Norma's at Le Parker Meridien on Urbanspoon

120 West 56th Street – Starbucks

For your caffeine fix, grab a Starbucks at this location right across the street from Le Parker Meridian Hotel.
127 West 56th Street – Topaz Thai

The bargain prices during lunch are the biggest draw at Topaz for the hoards of New Yorkers who work in the area.  Quality food and nicer than average (though small and always crowded) Thai restaurant décor make Topaz a solid choice even for a sit down dinner.


Topaz Thai on Urbanspoon

150 West 56th Street – Dean and Deluca

This Dean and Deluca café outpost is the perfect place to stop for one of their gourmet coffees and espressos or baked treats.  Expect better quality and higher prices than Starbucks.
Dean & Deluca Cafe on Urbanspoon

An empty Blue Dog Cafe


155 West 56th Street – Blue Dog Café

For a slightly different kind of café, stop by the Blue Dog.  Fresh fruit and vegetable juices along with healthier, lighter choices make Blue Dog a first choice for many who live and work in the area and those visiting alike.  Try an item from Blue Dog’s coffee or tea selection for a great alternative to Starbucks and a wallet friendlier option than Dean and Deluca.
Blue Dog Cafe on Urbanspoon

156 West 56th Street – Carnegie Club

The Carnegie Club – Photo courtesy of Planetzman.com

The Carnegie Club offers a taste of New York past, complete with an indoor smoking license making it the perfect place to light up one of your favorite stogies. The beautiful (though worn) space makes it easy to forget that your Blackberry was even invented yet.  For the cigar aficionado on a budget, bring your own stick for a minimal fee that can be used towards a cigar to go.  *Come on the weekend for a Sinatra performance you won’t soon forget!
Carnegie Club on Urbanspoon

162 West 56th Street – Teleon Café

One of two locations, this Teleon Café is a lunchtime and breakfast standby for those who commute to midtown for work.  With a selection ranging from soups and sandwiches to a salad bar and pizza station, Teleon has something to suit every mood.  Although it seems that the Teleon Café has nothing different to offer than any other deli stop in the area, regulars say that it’s too convenient not to stop in.

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Jamba Juice on Urbanspoon

Teleon Cafe on Urbanspoon

Happy New Year from The Gotham Palate!

Best wishes for happy, healthy and prosperous 2010, from Elena and The Gotham Palate Team!

Elena, enjoying a glass of Valpolicella at Osteria Sottoriva, Verona

Elena, enjoying a glass of Valpolicella at Osteria Sottoriva, Verona

We are looking forward to helping you make it another great year of delicious NYC dining!

In the meantime, we thank you for your continued readership and offer you some of the highlights from 2009 at The Gotham Palate:

- I have had the pleasure and good fortune of recruiting a dynamic and diverse team of passionate foodies, see the Contributor’s Page for some of the writer profiles. If you’re interested in contributing some writing or joining the Gotham Palate Team, please visit the Submissions Page.

TGP_V3

-An elegant and wonderfully inspired logo, designed by Liam Collins from Rubberfish Art.

- Creating The Gotham Palate Shop at Cafe Press – 15% of all proceeds will be donated to the Food Bank for New York City.

Click on The Gotham Palate Mug to link to The Gotham Palate Shop

Click on The Gotham Palate Mug to link to The Gotham Palate Shop


- Finally, some images from my beautiful, battery-recharging trip to Italy this summer. Traveling from North to South, from Garda Lake to Bari, with stays in Reggio Emilia, Rome, the isle of Ponza, and Naples, was not only wonderful way to re-create and reconnect with family and old friends, but  a deeply inspiring and palate invigorating time!

Historic Corato, Bari - decorated for annual San Cataldo Feast

Historic Corato, Bari - decorated for annual San Cataldo Feast

Penne all' arrabiata - La Vinicola, Pompeii

Penne all' arrabiata - La Vinicola, Pompeii

Torte di baba' - Pasticceria di Leo, Napoli

Torte di baba' - Pasticceria Leo, Napoli

Chiaia di Luna - Isle of Ponza

Chiaia di Luna - Isle of Ponza

Orecchiette di grano bruciato (orecchiette made with toasted wheat) - Taverna Sforza, Castel del Monte, Andria, Bari

Orecchiette di grano bruciato (roasted wheat orecchiette) - Taverna Sforza, Castel del Monte, Andria, Bari

A refreshing quartino Pampanuto di Puglia

A refreshing quartino Pampanuto di Puglia

Rice, mussels and potatoes - a beloved Apulian specialty

Rice, mussels and potatoes - a beloved Apulian specialty

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Right wine, wrong stemware…post your restaurant pet peeve

“Right wine, wrong stemware…grimace. What’s your restaurant hang up?”

By ELENA MANCINI

Spending some time in Queens this week dog-sitting an adorable Lhasa Apso who’s short on legs and long on  attitude, inspired me to take the intiative to get together with a dear friend from the borough with whom a catch-up session was long overdue.

Image from: http://www.all-about-italian-food.com/italian-red-wine.html

Image from: http://www.all-about-italian-food.com/italian-red-wine.html

She recommended we go to a Greek sidewalk cafe’-restaurant on 30th St. in Astoria. I was game. For both of us it was more about catching up than a gastronomic indulgence… [Read more...]

It’s official: Frank Bruni will be passing his napkin to The NY Times’ Sam Sifton

The food wires have been buzzing non-stop since yesterday, when The New York Times‘s Executive Editor, Bill Keller officially named Sam Sifton to replace Frank Bruni as the Times’s new restaurant critic. Sifton has been serving the dual role of Culture Editor and Dining Editor at the Times. His previous stints include New York Press Restaurant Critic and New York City Public School Teacher.


Frank Bruni (left) Sam Sifton (right). Image from Eater.com

Frank Bruni (left) Sam Sifton (right). Image from Eater.com

One detail surrounding Sifton’s appointment marks a new era restaurant criticism in that his countenance has been previously been publicized and is easily recognizable. This signals a decisive shift with his predecessor, who had been remarkably successful up until very recently at keeping a very low visual profile. According to Eater, there are only three Bruni headshots in circulation during his five year tenure as New York Times Restaurant Critic. The last, and allegedly most accurate photo was only released days ago.

Photo from Eater.com

Photo from Eater.com

With the mystery surrounding Bruni’s oft- feared countenance gone, and Sifton’s appearance a known quantity at the outset, how will the disappearance of the critic’s anonymity affect reviews?

The Gotham Palate wants to know what you think. Please comment and vote on the poll in the footer of this web site.

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It's official: Frank Bruni will be passing his napkin to The NY Times' Sam Sifton

The food wires have been buzzing non-stop since yesterday, when The New York Times‘s Executive Editor, Bill Keller officially named Sam Sifton to replace Frank Bruni as the Times’s new restaurant critic. Sifton has been serving the dual role of Culture Editor and Dining Editor at the Times. His previous stints include New York Press Restaurant Critic and New York City Public School Teacher.


Frank Bruni (left) Sam Sifton (right). Image from Eater.com

Frank Bruni (left) Sam Sifton (right). Image from Eater.com

One detail surrounding Sifton’s appointment marks a new era restaurant criticism in that his countenance has been previously been publicized and is easily recognizable. This signals a decisive shift with his predecessor, who had been remarkably successful up until very recently at keeping a very low visual profile. According to Eater, there are only three Bruni headshots in circulation during his five year tenure as New York Times Restaurant Critic. The last, and allegedly most accurate photo was only released days ago.

Photo from Eater.com

Photo from Eater.com

With the mystery surrounding Bruni’s oft- feared countenance gone, and Sifton’s appearance a known quantity at the outset, how will the disappearance of the critic’s anonymity affect reviews?

The Gotham Palate wants to know what you think. Please comment and vote on the poll in the footer of this web site.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

What baffles me about Luzzo’s Pizza

“What baffles me about Luzzo’s Pizza”

BY: ELENA MANCINI

Luzzo’s
211 First Ave.
East Village
212-473-4774 /
luzzomania.com/

Pizza Ortolana

Pizza Ortolana

One of the things that I took away from eating at Luzzo’s, besides a headache and a full stomach, is unresolved bafflement at why this place has armies of devotees.

For months, I had been hearing acquaintances  rave about this place and observing hordes of people lining up trying to get into this First Avenue joint. Since, I’ve become adept at filtering out hype and focusing on the substantive characteristics of an eating establishment (those characteristics include good quality, preparation, portioning, price to quality and portioning, ambiance and service), I decided to tune out the multiple word of mouth accolades for this place, along with my skepticism of them, and try the pizza for myself. [Read more...]

What baffles me about Luzzo's Pizza

“What baffles me about Luzzo’s Pizza”

BY: ELENA MANCINI

Luzzo’s
211 First Ave.
East Village
212-473-4774 /
luzzomania.com/

Pizza Ortolana

Pizza Ortolana

One of the things that I took away from eating at Luzzo’s, besides a headache and a full stomach, is unresolved bafflement at why this place has armies of devotees.

For months, I had been hearing acquaintances  rave about this place and observing hordes of people lining up trying to get into this First Avenue joint. Since, I’ve become adept at filtering out hype and focusing on the substantive characteristics of an eating establishment (those characteristics include good quality, preparation, portioning, price to quality and portioning, ambiance and service), I decided to tune out the multiple word of mouth accolades for this place, along with my skepticism of them, and try the pizza for myself. [Read more...]

JoeDoe – part of the growing cohort of touchy chef-restauranteurs that push back

JoeDoe’s Joe Dobias is among the spate of chef-restauranteurs in the New York City restaurant world that are lashing out at restaurant critics. According to Eater, a Dobias is said to have railed against New York Journal blogger for critical remarks expressed in a review. Here’s a taste of Dobias’ gratuitous, below the belt response, courtesy of Eater:

“….when you kill yourself for a living like I do, it is very tough to stomach an angry little mans opinion. Who honestly care what you think and further how dare you and the other shithead bloggers. You made your snap judgement on one visit and further as I said you have zero credibility for writing reviews..stop your malicious bullshit and stop this site! YOU ARE NOT A FOOD WRITER AND WILL NEVER BE YOU NASTY LITTLE MAN!!…It is 9:30am time to cook brunch hopefully not for some nasty little bald men like you.”

Image from Eater.com

JoeDoe Restaurant - Image from Eater.com

Dobias much like, pizza-chef-restauranteur, Jim Lahey, who lashed out at Frank Bruni for a lukewarm review, is either plagued by massively detrimental anger issues or is wrongly convinced that self-inflicted negative publicity is a good thing. Dobias has even gone as far as formally banning photography of his dishes–the rule is purportedly printed on the menus. Glad The Gotham Palate was there to get pictures in February, when the photo-getting was still good. For the record, I’ve eaten at JoeDoe’s and not only enjoyed it, but also gave it a favorable review on this blog. See here:

But back to the backbiting chefs.

First of all: don’t these chef-restauranteurs realize when they overreact to these reviews, they are not endearing themselves to the public in any way? Nor are they hurting the critics. If anything they are affirming how relevant they really are. ey are only exposing their hyper-inflated, fragile and co-dependent egos. Is the restaurant business a tough racket? Unbelievably so. Do critics and bloggers occasionally issue unfair reviews? Of course they do. Do they warrant overly-defensive responses in the form of wickedly hostile and ad hominem attacks of the reviewer? Most defintely not.

If restauranteurs must offer any type of corrective to what they perceive as unfair criticism, they ought to consider taking a page from Jon-George Vongerichten’s rebuttal to Frank Bruni’s recent downgraded rating of his five year old, Meatpacking, Asian fare Mecca, Spice.

“I’m sorry that Bruni and his guests didn’t have a better time, but I make no apologies for opening Spice Market or any of my other restaurants. Like each one, Spice Market was conceived of and built as a stand-alone restaurant. In fact, it was a deeply personal project: I spent years cooking in Asia and ate at the fantastic open-air markets every night after work

Whether or not you agree with JGV, the response is classy, to the point and do not constitute the makings of a PR fiasco.

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Sammy’s Soup: my favorite chill-chaser

453 Sixth Ave. at 11th St., Greenwich Village
(212) 924-6688

By now, most New Yorkers have had it with the cold, wind and rain. We are all ready to get some spring on, but April has been especially slow in delivering this year with it’s mere four dry days to date, only two of which included sunshine. However, I am told that the weekend will give us reason to give our rain boots a rest.  Amen to that!

In the meantime, this long patch of cold, soggy weather has inspired me to rediscover the joys of Asian soup. Sammy’s Noodle Shop of Greenwich Village is among the first places I think of when I need to fulfill the urge for something warm, nutritious, filling and won’t leave you feeling like you should walk past three subway stops in order to digest it.

Sammy's Noodle Shop's Vegetable Tofu Soup

Sammy's Noodle Shop's Vegetable Tofu Soup

I’m especially fond of their tofu vegetable soup. It comes in a huge bowl and it’s made from a chicken stock base. It’s ingredients are spinach, chopped green onion, generous amounts of smooth silken tofu and tomatoes. [Read more...]