The Oldest Bar in New York: Review of The Bridge Café

BY PAUL from BeerClubGuide.com for The Gotham Palate

The Bridge Café
279 Water St
Financial District
212-227-3344 / bridgecafenyc.com/
Serving lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch

In 1974, a chap named Newell Narme erected a wood building at 279 Water Street, on the banks of the East River. Originally a “grocery and wine and porter bottler,” the humble pub has been through several metamorphoses since then. In 1847, when Henry Williams opened a porter house in the building, the space was officially recognized as a drinking establishment, making the building the oldest bar in New York City.

For its first century, 279 Water Street was primarily a grocery and saloon frequented by fishermen, dock workers, prostitutes and their customers; it has also been a pirate bar, a packing store, a Hungarian restaurant and a seafood restaurant.  When Henry Williams opened his bar, the building was essentially a brothel; a census revealed that several prostitutes lived in the building.

In 1883, the Brooklyn Bridge was erected, forever changing the landscape of 279 Water Street. No longer did the East River flow past the building, and the area became even more disreputable. During Prohibition, the building served as a speakeasy, serving food and cider as a matter of course, but also making bootlegged beer available to its customers.

The current owners purchased the space in 1979, renaming the saloon the Bridge Café. Its proximity to Wall Street has made the Café a regular haunt for financial and political types. In fact, former mayor Ed Koch was known to frequent the Bridge Café throughout his time in office. The Café became known to the rest of the country when it was used as a set during the filming of Gangs of New York.

In 2007, the Bridge Café was the location of an EPIC paranormal investigation. The team didn’t experience any strange activity, but there are still reports of the sound footsteps, the smell of lavender, unexplained shadow movement and the persistent feeling of being watched.

Today, the Café is known for its outstanding selection of wine, scotch and bourbon—a far cry from the rum, applejack, beer and Madeira served when the bar first opened.

Executive Chef Joseph A. Kunst uses seasonal, organic, locally produced proteins, dairy, fruit and vegetables in his American Eclectic cooking. In addition to lamb, steak and buffalo, the menu consists mostly of seafood and shellfish. Start with the Steamed P.E.I. Mussels served with Andouille Sausage, Jalapeno Peppers, Cilantro, Spicy Tomato Broth ($13) and try the Grilled Wild Pacific Salmon with Ginger-Lime Vinaigrette, Avocado, Red Onion & Watercress Salad ($27) for dinner.

Paul also writes on the Beer Maven Blog at BeerClubGuide.com, a site that rates and reviews beer clubs.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

Bridge Cafe on Urbanspoon

Keeping things pretty much the same – Review of Peter Mcmanus Cafe’

BY CLAIRE McCURDY

Peter McManus Café is actually a bar—a Chelsea bar’s bar.   Iconic.  Owned and operated by four generations of the McManus family.  A place so sure of itself that it has only recently put up a Facebook page, generally relying on word of mouth from the four generations of satisfied customers. . Burnished long deep brown bar, cut glass mirrors behind the bar, bright green banquette tables and a beer and food menu which changes very slowly if at all- we are talking generations here. It is a dark cave of a place which warmly beckons to all.

Courtesy of http://greenwichvillagenydailyphoto.blogspot.com/2009/04/peter-mcmanus-cafe.html

Peter McManus Café has been a fixture in the neighborhood since1936.  And it continues to draw a crowd of neighborhood folks and auslanders alike from a pack of sharp young lawyers to aging/or aged hippies in overalls, to firemen, or contractors on a neighborhood job, to the odd barfly maintaining a seat on a stool with a certain amount of difficulty.  There are a few women, too, especially at night (read: after 6:00) when bright color and glamour and some intense flirtations enter the bar; but during the day, it seems to be province of men. The place even hosts the out of the way casual customers on their way to the Chelsea galleries, or to the trendy thrift shops in the west 20’s.

The bartender today is a guy whose bushy gray beard and moustache cover the bulk of his face, but he is as warm and genial as his many clean shaven predecessors—probably his father and grandfather.  Joking with everybody, he and his remarks bring snorts and bellows of laughter down the bar even to the corner table where I sit.  The bartender even manages to extend a helping hand to the tippling barfly while pulling generous pints of beer.

McManus does serve mixed drinks, but I saw very few tiny little umbrellas or pink monkeys depending from a glass.  The mixed drinks are very much an afterthought to the fine beer menu which is as long as your arm and begins but does not end with Guinness.  I had a wonderful black and tan- Guinness with lager, which if poured correctly spills into an even split of half black Guinness, half warm golden lager and when you drink it, the two flavors mingle on the tongue.

There’s food, but no fancy chic fusion stuff- –  good basic decent burgers which won applause from my dining companion,  (the chiliburgers are legendary), a giant pile of steak-cut fries, , a few salads which are surprisingly varied and tasty for a meat and potatoes kind of place, and my personal fave, the fennel scented knockwurst and sauerkraut. Smothered with mustard, it was a meal so hearty that I was not hungry until some twelve hours later.

To history starved New Yorkers a bar/restaurant which has survived longer than a season is a rarity; four generations, outstanding and virtually unique.  The bar’s history can be read from its walls.   I sat under a large McManus portrait and at my left hand a foldout picture of Company D, 130th Infantry, where if one could just pick him out was doubtless James J. McManus. No date, but clearly World War II.—we know he served in the Philippines and won two Purple Hearts. I also sat directly in front of a TV playing the Food Channel, tear stained contestants slicing and dicing, running on a loop; and a flashing automated red menu announcing the much touted Goose Island Summer beer. Nostalgia, chic collations, trendy seasonal beer:  All one’s needs taken care of.

Before we left, completely sated, we wanted to check one small niggling detail.  Could the banquette have been covered with red plastic last time we were here? Instead of the current green?  We asked our friendly and convivial waitress..  She sternly told us that nothing of the sort had happened or, would ever happen is she had anything to say about it.  “We don’t change anything much around here at Peter McManus. We like things to stay pretty much the same.”

How could we argue?  A steady port in an unsteady changing world. We felt exactly the same way.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

Peter McManus Café on Urbanspoon

Keeping things pretty much the same – Review of Peter Mcmanus Cafe'

BY CLAIRE McCURDY

Peter McManus Café is actually a bar—a Chelsea bar’s bar.   Iconic.  Owned and operated by four generations of the McManus family.  A place so sure of itself that it has only recently put up a Facebook page, generally relying on word of mouth from the four generations of satisfied customers. . Burnished long deep brown bar, cut glass mirrors behind the bar, bright green banquette tables and a beer and food menu which changes very slowly if at all- we are talking generations here. It is a dark cave of a place which warmly beckons to all.

Courtesy of http://greenwichvillagenydailyphoto.blogspot.com/2009/04/peter-mcmanus-cafe.html

Peter McManus Café has been a fixture in the neighborhood since1936.  And it continues to draw a crowd of neighborhood folks and auslanders alike from a pack of sharp young lawyers to aging/or aged hippies in overalls, to firemen, or contractors on a neighborhood job, to the odd barfly maintaining a seat on a stool with a certain amount of difficulty.  There are a few women, too, especially at night (read: after 6:00) when bright color and glamour and some intense flirtations enter the bar; but during the day, it seems to be province of men. The place even hosts the out of the way casual customers on their way to the Chelsea galleries, or to the trendy thrift shops in the west 20’s.

The bartender today is a guy whose bushy gray beard and moustache cover the bulk of his face, but he is as warm and genial as his many clean shaven predecessors—probably his father and grandfather.  Joking with everybody, he and his remarks bring snorts and bellows of laughter down the bar even to the corner table where I sit.  The bartender even manages to extend a helping hand to the tippling barfly while pulling generous pints of beer.

McManus does serve mixed drinks, but I saw very few tiny little umbrellas or pink monkeys depending from a glass.  The mixed drinks are very much an afterthought to the fine beer menu which is as long as your arm and begins but does not end with Guinness.  I had a wonderful black and tan- Guinness with lager, which if poured correctly spills into an even split of half black Guinness, half warm golden lager and when you drink it, the two flavors mingle on the tongue.

There’s food, but no fancy chic fusion stuff- –  good basic decent burgers which won applause from my dining companion,  (the chiliburgers are legendary), a giant pile of steak-cut fries, , a few salads which are surprisingly varied and tasty for a meat and potatoes kind of place, and my personal fave, the fennel scented knockwurst and sauerkraut. Smothered with mustard, it was a meal so hearty that I was not hungry until some twelve hours later.

To history starved New Yorkers a bar/restaurant which has survived longer than a season is a rarity; four generations, outstanding and virtually unique.  The bar’s history can be read from its walls.   I sat under a large McManus portrait and at my left hand a foldout picture of Company D, 130th Infantry, where if one could just pick him out was doubtless James J. McManus. No date, but clearly World War II.—we know he served in the Philippines and won two Purple Hearts. I also sat directly in front of a TV playing the Food Channel, tear stained contestants slicing and dicing, running on a loop; and a flashing automated red menu announcing the much touted Goose Island Summer beer. Nostalgia, chic collations, trendy seasonal beer:  All one’s needs taken care of.

Before we left, completely sated, we wanted to check one small niggling detail.  Could the banquette have been covered with red plastic last time we were here? Instead of the current green?  We asked our friendly and convivial waitress..  She sternly told us that nothing of the sort had happened or, would ever happen is she had anything to say about it.  “We don’t change anything much around here at Peter McManus. We like things to stay pretty much the same.”

How could we argue?  A steady port in an unsteady changing world. We felt exactly the same way.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

Peter McManus Café on Urbanspoon

A Tribute to Bukowski: Review of Post Office

BY MICHELLE WAHLERS

Post Office
188 Havemeyer Street

Williamsburg
718-963-2574 / postofficebk.com/
Photo by Michelle Wahlers

The calendar boasts it is spring, but I would argue otherwise.  I decided to use the chilly weather as an excuse to try Post Office, a whiskey bar located under the Williamsburg Bridge. I met friends and got a table in the middle of the dimly lit, narrow bar. The bartender was willing to help an amateur (me) with the very extensive whiskey, Bourbon and rye list. I decided on the Buffalo Trace on the rocks, and my boyfriend got the Kentucky Vintage, neat. The Buffalo Trace was smooth and had “butterscotchy” tones. The Kentucky Vintage knocked me off my feet and put some hair on my chest with it’s musky, smoky flavor. I preferred the former. The other two guests with us both got Manhattans which were mahogany colored and garnished with a single cherry.


The Post Office’s decor is lovely, vintage and very personal. Above us hung a chandelier, each bulb burning soft. On the tables were candles, which had the habit of blowing out when we moved in to talk to each other. The music playing was a complete throwback, think Buddy Holly and Bobby Darin. The wallpaper was the Eagle Insignia, but I like to think that the true mascot for the place is Charles Bukowksi, whose portrait was hanging above the bar. As a fan girl, I was thrilled.

The menu was scarce, but we all knew what we were getting into. The place is a bar first and this becomes blatantly obvious when you realize the kitchen is about the size of a broom closet and that you can see right into it. I always marvel at kitchens that are so exposed to the public, confidence must run deep. We ordered oysters, deviled eggs, the pickle plate, a grilled cheese with bacon, the pulled pork sandwich and the last filet mignon. (Essentially the entire menu.) As soon as our waiter told me there was only one left I made it a point to reserve it. The food did not arrive promptly, but the service was always assuring us of its whereabouts and re-filling drinks. This is not a place to go for a quick bite, but it never presents itself as such. It promotes leisure and contemplation.

Of all the food we ordered, I have to say the deviled eggs were my favorite. That doesn’t even seem fair when steak is in the equation, but like I said this place is a bar that happens to serve food, not the other way around. Also I have an affinity to deviled eggs and these were made damn near perfectly.  The pickle plate was a fun way to begin the meal, with pickled peaches, beets, mushrooms, blackberries and peppers. (Trust me, somehow this all works together.) The filet mignon was rare but a bit too tough, but the bed of mashed potatoes it was lying on was delicious, swimming in bacon gravy. The grilled cheese was cooked perfectly; the bacon to cheese ration was 50:50 (which to me, is perfect!). The pulled pork sandwich was packed with freshly made coleslaw and thinly shredded pork on a dark toasted bun.

When our plates were cleared and we were warm and full, the place seemed to be gaining real momentum.  A small line formed (no doubt waiting for our table), and we started heading out, although I could have stayed for much longer. The mood was kind and calm, but with a healthy appreciation for the devious, as the portrait above the bar would suggest.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

Post Office on Urbanspoon

Need more than the weather to stir things up? Martini week begins March 1st.

Tasting Table and Thrillist are proud to present Martini Week from March 1-14.

http://tastingtable.com/multipart_article/nyc/4/Martini_Week.htm

Image courtesy of tastingtable.com

Visit top bars  as they offer $10 martini cocktails, featuring premium vodka and gin, from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. nightly.

Click on the image above for a list of participating venues.

Share/Save/BookmarkSubscribe

“Beyond the Burger” – Review of DBGB Kitchen & Bar

BY SARAH IP

DBGB Kitchen & Bar
299 Bowery
(between Houston St & 1st St)
East Village, NY 10003
(212) 933-5300 /
danielnyc.com/dbgb.html

Mission: Restaurant Week lunch. Where to go? Only one place on my mind: DBGB.

Winter Squash Soup. Photo by Sarah Ip.

Winter Squash Soup. Photo by Sarah Ip.

Classic pub fare has heart and soul – and DBGB Kitchen & Bar is no exception. Providing a high-quality dining menu with stylish drinks and an upscale environment, it’s where food and drink go hand-in-hand. The gourmet dishes are complex and refined; it’s definitely a cut above your average ‘ole pub. Because of the “gastronomic” prices, DBGB attracts more of an affluent clientele.

DBGB is the brainchild of Chef Daniel Boulud and was created to be a chill, downtown dining destination melding the British tavern with the French brasserie experience. Gastropub touches are evident throughout the restaurant: brass shelves displaying kitchen goods and utensils stand side-by-side with plush black seats and old-fashioned coat rack hooks…all in muted shades of black, bronze and grey. DBGB also takes a cue from the Bowery’s industrial background. The ambience screams understated chic. [Read more...]

“Beyond the Burger” – Review of DBGB Kitchen & Bar

BY SARAH IP

DBGB Kitchen & Bar
299 Bowery
(between Houston St & 1st St)
East Village, NY 10003
(212) 933-5300 /
danielnyc.com/dbgb.html

Mission: Restaurant Week lunch. Where to go? Only one place on my mind: DBGB.

Winter Squash Soup. Photo by Sarah Ip.

Winter Squash Soup. Photo by Sarah Ip.

Classic pub fare has heart and soul – and DBGB Kitchen & Bar is no exception. Providing a high-quality dining menu with stylish drinks and an upscale environment, it’s where food and drink go hand-in-hand. The gourmet dishes are complex and refined; it’s definitely a cut above your average ‘ole pub. Because of the “gastronomic” prices, DBGB attracts more of an affluent clientele.

DBGB is the brainchild of Chef Daniel Boulud and was created to be a chill, downtown dining destination melding the British tavern with the French brasserie experience. Gastropub touches are evident throughout the restaurant: brass shelves displaying kitchen goods and utensils stand side-by-side with plush black seats and old-fashioned coat rack hooks…all in muted shades of black, bronze and grey. DBGB also takes a cue from the Bowery’s industrial background. The ambience screams understated chic. [Read more...]