Hospitality and comfort meet the Upper West Side via Druze cuisine – Review of Gazala’s

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Gazala’s
380 Columbus Avenue
Upper West Side
(212) 873-8880/gazalaplace.com

Gazala's Interior

Although the small Druze village in Northern Israel where Chef Gazala Halabi grew up is a far cry from the Upper West Side, she makes it her own via her restaurant, Gazala’s.
I had the pleasure of dining at Gazala’s, where I felt as if I were in Ms. Halabi’s own home.  
The warm and courteous wait staff made my guest and I feel comfortable in the brick and burgundy colored space, where interesting mosaics covered the walls and small chandeliers accented the high ceilings.

Gazala’s wasn’t very crowded for a Wednesday night, especially when a brief downpour washed away any sign of life dining outside on the small front patio.  Noticing those who periodically came in to Gazala’s, I knew right away that they were past patrons, coming back for more of the transporting food I was about to consume.

Meze Platter at Gazala’s

We started with the Gazala Platter ($33) – a meze platter highlighting most of Gazala’s hot and cold meze offerings.  The taboule and lebanee (a homemade goat cheese) highlighted the cold meze selections with fresh, crisp, and bright flavors.  The lebanee – a surprising, creamy treat melted in my mouth with a hint of lemon adding to the tang of the goat cheese.  The falafel trumped the hot mezes for me, with a burst of garlic and spices once the crisp outer shell was penetrated.  My dining companion, who grew up with Middle Eastern food, thoroughly enjoyed the meat and potato cigars,  and commented on how fresh and delicate they were.  I didn’t want the Gazala Platter to end, with endless combinations of dips, spreads, and things to dip and spread onto the sagg pita.

Spinach and Lebanee Boureka at Gazala’s

I managed to control how greedy this food was making me, in order to save room for our waitress’s special recommendation – her personal favorite, the spinach and lebanee boureka. The baked pie was similar to a Greek spanakopita, however the lebanee and pita dough added dimension, subtle whole wheat flavor and a more substantial doughy texture to the oh-so comforting dish.

Moshakal Platter

Next, the moshakal platter ($19.50) – a combination of lamb, chicken, and kafta served with rice and salad.  The kafta was flavorful and moist with the perfect amount of char and surprisingly seemed to melt in my mouth.

Baklava and Turkish coffee rounded out the meal, a perfect sweet end to a meal that transported me to Chef Gazala’s village, made me smile, and filled my heart with warmth from the first bite.

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A hidden Mediterranean gem – Review of Suspenders

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Suspenders
111 Broadway
Financial District
212-732-5005/suspendersbar.com

Buried in a basement down two flights of stairs lies Suspenders.  Suspenders is best known for its after-work bar scene and its close proximity to Wall Street –the heart of the Financial district.  However, Suspenders also serves up a great selection of authentic Mediterranean food that can’t be missed if you’re in the area.

I had the pleasure of dining at Suspenders for the first time with a friend and regular of the bar.   When asked what to order he responded that I absolutely had to try something off the Mediterranean menu.

Meze sharing plate at Suspenders

Meze sharing plate at Suspenders

We ordered the Meze Sharing Plate for 2 ($22) which came with a taste of everything.  Lamb and chicken souvlaki, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), and keftedes (lamb meatballs) served with a side of pita bread and the octopus ($11).

Owner, Michael Panayiotis sat with us as we ate and explained that his food is served the way he had it growing up.  He fondly told us stories of diving for seafood in Cyprus when he was a child and eating everything fresh with only a bit of lemon juice.  His childhood is evident in everything he serves, especially the grilled octopus, tender and marinated in olive oil, lemon juice, and oregano; the ingredients speaking for themselves and truly a pleasure to consume.  The dolmades were simple, yet flavorful with the citrus adding a pop of flavor.

Grilled octopus at Suspenders

Grilled octopus at Suspenders

Courtesy of the house, we were also served plates of hummus and babaganoush, all made from scratch.  It was easy to escape the hustle and bustle of New York, and imagine that I was gazing out over the Mediterranean Sea, the breeze blowing through my hair while I listened to stories of his childhood.

Most importantly, Michael emphasized, Suspenders is a place to relax and enjoy good times with good friends; a neighborhood bar with an unsuspecting Cyprian flair.

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A taste of “the Village’ – Review of Khyber Pass

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Khyber Pass
34 St. Mark’s Place
East Village
212-473-0989/orderkhyberpass.com

Khyber Pass was one of those places that I had passed regularly, several times a month, but had never been to.  I finally stopped in when poking around the East Village one night, looking for a cozy nook to enjoy some warm food in.

Hummus at Khyber Pass

Hummus at Khyber Pass

Upon entering, the sweet smell of flavored Hookah tobacco filled my nose and my boyfriend and I were lead to a table at the back of the restaurant.  A corner booth, with well worn seats and an Afghani rug (with a thin sheet of glass over top of it), as the table top.  The room was dark and inviting, filled with warm hues of red, purple, and orange;  if walls could talk, I’m sure the stories of nights past would echo long after the last dish was served for the night.  The service, I quickly learned due to the fact that we were asked 3 times by 3 different people if we were ready to order yet, was in typical East Village style, disorganized and ditsy. [Read more...]

A taste of "the Village' – Review of Khyber Pass

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Khyber Pass
34 St. Mark’s Place
East Village
212-473-0989/orderkhyberpass.com

Khyber Pass was one of those places that I had passed regularly, several times a month, but had never been to.  I finally stopped in when poking around the East Village one night, looking for a cozy nook to enjoy some warm food in.

Hummus at Khyber Pass

Hummus at Khyber Pass

Upon entering, the sweet smell of flavored Hookah tobacco filled my nose and my boyfriend and I were lead to a table at the back of the restaurant.  A corner booth, with well worn seats and an Afghani rug (with a thin sheet of glass over top of it), as the table top.  The room was dark and inviting, filled with warm hues of red, purple, and orange;  if walls could talk, I’m sure the stories of nights past would echo long after the last dish was served for the night.  The service, I quickly learned due to the fact that we were asked 3 times by 3 different people if we were ready to order yet, was in typical East Village style, disorganized and ditsy. [Read more...]