Funky cocktail and tapas venue with a view – Review of Four

BY STEPHANIE AMY COLLAZO

FOUR at Yotel
570 10th Avenue @ 42nd St.
Car: Parking Lot located under YOTEL, entrance on 41st Street
Midtown West
646-449-7700 / yotel.com

Entrance to Yotel hotel. Photo taken from the yotel website.

The simple yet modern décor of Yotel sparked my interest long before I knew I would be making a visit to its restaurant.  Having passed by the hotel a few times the neon purple sign reading “YOTEL” and the luggage robot quickly caught my attention.

When entering Yotel, you are approached by a group of men in grey jackets who ask whether you are checking in or going upstairs, once I told them I was going to FOUR one of the men pressed the button for the elevator and told me that when I got to the fourth floor I would be there, hence the restaurant’s name.

Exiting the elevator I noticed that the staff and the hotel followed the same color scheme of plum, grey and white.  At first I thought it was a bit odd but when I realized that the staff didn’t have a uniform and were only required to wear within the color scheme I was amazed at how many different outfits they had put together using those three colors.

Strawberry lychee mojito. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

We were seated at the bar for cocktails while we waited for the tables to be set.  The first cocktail we tried was the strawberry lychee mojito ($13) off of their signature cocktail list.  The description said that the mojito consisted of rum, strawberry, lychee, mint and citrus, but all I was getting was strawberry and tequila.  Now I am not saying that they put tequila in the mojito, which is not typically in a mojito, but the drink was pretty strong and tasted like tequila.  I was a bit disappointed since I was looking forward to tasting the lychee and strawberry.

Dohyo seating at FOUR. Photo taken from the yotel website.

Shortly after finishing our cocktails we were asked where we wanted to be seated.  We had a choice between booth and Dohyo seating.  Though the Dohyo seating looked comfortable and would have enhanced the experience we opted for the booth seating since we were both in dresses and didn’t want to accidentally flash the restaurant.

Mango ginger martini. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The waiter quickly approached us to take our orders. He suggested the mango-ginger martini ($13), and I went for it. My guest decided not to get her next drink just yet.  The mango-ginger martini consisted of vodka, mango, ginger liqueur and St Germain liqueur.  It was delicious! The ginger flavor really stood out and there wasn’t a terrible vodka sting at the end.

Chili dusted tuna. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The first course at Chef Richard Sandoval’s new venture with Yotel was a sampling of the chili dusted tuna salad ($9).  The tuna salad was presented on top of purple potato with potato straws on top.  This course was one of my top three favorite dishes of the evening.  The light dusting of chili made it spicy and though I would have never thought to pair the two the raw tuna and purple potato tasted very good together.

Pozole miso soup. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The second course was pozole miso soup ($6).  This was unlike any miso soup I had had before.  I am accustom to a much more simple version of the soup consisting solely of tofu, seaweed and miso.  The pozole miso soup consisted of tofu, chili guajillo, wakame seaweed and cilantro and was both visually pleasing and hearty.

Crunchy shrimp. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Next was my absolute favorite dish of the night: the crunchy shrimp ($8).  The shrimp were the star attraction as far as my guest and myself were concerned.  We couldn’t stop raving about the its amazing flavor and crunch.  They were crunchy without a think layer of batter and had just the lightest hint of spice.

Halibut slider. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo

Our fourth course was a halibut slider ($9).  This dish was nice and light and the chili morita-remoulade sauce was quite flavorful. After the halibut, we had black cod with pickled artichoke ($14).  This was a sour and sweet combination that I didn’t see coming.  I enjoyed the pickled artichoke but the teriyaki-balsamic reduction made the cod too sweet for my taste.

 

Our sixth and seventh course came out at the same time.  First we tried the Chinese eggplant ($6), which consisted of miso, tomato, red chile and mint.  I am not a fan of eggplant to begin with so I was not a fan of this course.  Next we tried the Colorado lamb leg ($10).   The lamb had a cucumber-yogurt sauce and was served on top of potatoes.  The meat was very moist and I had to use my fork to eat it rather then the chopsticks we had been using to eat everything else.  My guest who is normally not a fan of lamb ate more than half of her serving.

Dessert sampler (from left to right) yuzu strawberry tart, hummingbird toffee cake and chocolate cheesecake. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Our final course was the dessert course, which featured a sampling of the three desserts on the menu.  We first tried the yuzu strawberry tart ($7).  The lemongrass sorbet had a very strong lemon flavor, which tasted more like lemon zest, but not in a negative way.  Next we had the hummingbird toffee cake ($7).  The cake was moist and flavorful.  It was made of banana and pineapple and came with sweet anise ice cream.  The last dessert we tried was the chocolate cheesecake ($7).  The cheesecake was not too heavy and paired nicely with the blackberry sauce and chocolate crunch candies.

Due to weather constraints we couldn’t go out on the terrace but I am sure that it would be a great venue for cocktails with friends.

All in all, Yotel has something for everyone. Its drink list alone is enough to draw the young and trendy, while the menu and location will attract the older, possibly after theater, dinner crowd, and the offerings and view from the terrace will make them all stay.

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Chasing umami – Review of Aburiya Kinnosuke

BY ELENA MANCINI

213 East 45th St.
Midtown East
212-867-5454 /  aburiyakinnosuke.com/

Sashimi Don and vegetable tempura don Lunch combination at Arubiya Kinnosuke

Sashimi Don and Vegetable Tempura Don Lunch combination at Arubiya Kinnosuke

Aburiya Kinnosuke introduces a welcome gamechanger  to the stalwart sushi power lunch standard, and its strengths  extend well beyond merely resisting the well-honed formulas of Americanized Japanese fare–the fact that it goes by name that is as memorable as an airline confirmation number for non-speakers of Japanese is a mere peripheral symptom of its authenticity.

Once passed the odd, green and pink pinstriped discreetly marked doorway, one descends into a large, sexy cavernous space,  with generous seating and beautiful, dark fir furniture.  The main dining space gives way to a multitude of private dining nooks that comfortably seat six. Despite the sizeable lunch crowds–at least 50% of Aburiya Kinnosuke’s clientele is Japanese–a gracious host attends to welcoming and rapidly seating incoming guests. While this places sacrifices nothing to laxity–quality and attention to detail govern it in every fundamental aspect–there is a relaxed and even calming vibe about this candlelit, tastefully decorated space.

As enjoyable as the elegant, soothing decor and the swift and efficient service may be, they are not the main attraction at this no run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurant. That title is reserved for the inspired robata specialties and other fish and meat dishes featured on its menu. Offering a changing daily menu, the kitchen avoids any cookie-cutter approach to catering to its guests. Getting there early can be rewarding as the lunch menu features daily chef’s choice option made to accommodate the first ten or twenty guests, for $13. Lunch specials however extend to larger quantities and in varying and appealing combinations and price points.

Arubiya2

Sweet Soy Simmered Pork Belly and Salmon Flakes and Salmon Roe Don at Arubiya Kinnosuke

For anywhere between $16-$18 gets you the fish or the meat of the day special. Depending on your mood, your lunch can be accompanied by the choice of an array of shochus (distilled rather than brewed sakes), or Western wines, exotic cocktails or a more salutary beverages such as grapefruit juice or green tea.

My recent visits have been at lunch time, and each time I found myself unable to resist the $16 two don special. The combination special consists of  two freshly prepared, rigorously executed dishes  of choice with a bonus extras that include: densely flavored, seaweed strewn miso soup, a bowl of shredded Japanese radish,  a green salad and a bite-sized dessert. Beyond being well worth the price, these combinations make for a filling, umami-laden lunch indulgence indeed.

The softer than cashmere pork belly is moist, rich in flavor and an all around winning don. The same goes for the pristine cuts of sashimi over a perfectly cooked, lightly seasoned vinegar rice. The vegetable tempura cakes  merrily  defy the commonly known Americanized Japanese incarnations of tempura. The salmon roe and salmon flake dish stood out with flavors both light and distinct that they evoked a distant sea breeze. Finally, an absolute must is the grilled eel. The don is an outstanding expression of the robata technique of grilling with binchoutan charcoal for which Aburiya Kinnosuke is known–This thick, fleshy, glazed strip of grilled eel is divinely loaded with mouthwatering umami that it has quickly become the flavor expectation standard that keeps me coming back to Aburiya Kinnosuke for more.

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TAO Restaurant turns 10!

BY CLAIRE McCURDY

42 East 58th Street
Midtown East
taorestaurant.com/

Master Chef, John Villa. <br>Photo Credit: behindtheburner.com

Master Chef, John Villa. Photo Credit: behindtheburner.com

TAO Restaurant (New York) has just celebrated its 10th Year Anniversary on Saturday 10/16, /10, a milestone for a New York landmark which is also the highest grossing restaurant in the nation.

The Tao is a concept found in Taoism, Confucianism, and more generally in ancient Chinese philosophy and East Asian religions. While the word itself translates as ‘way’, ‘path’, or ‘route’, it is often used philosophically to signify the fundamental or true nature of the world.  One might even say: the heart of the world.

Chef John Villa says that TAO Restaurant is essentially at his heart— his pride and joy. –When asked to define TAO’s menu – whether it could be described as Asian fusion, Villa emphatically said that it could not.  He presents classical Japanese and Chinese dishes – he maintains the authentic quality of each cuisine. Villa serves a fine Peking duck exactly the way it would be served in Beijing. Chinese and Japanese guests have remarked on the quality and authenticity of the offerings.  In other words, Asians are just as pleased and impressed with his classic Asian food as are all other diners.

We asked “what really drives you, Chef John?” And he said that it is the creation of top quality food in high volume so that each dish is presented exactly the same, with exactly the same degree of quality, when TAO’s doors open at noon as when they close at midnight.  In other words, no matter how many times a single dish is replicated for hundreds of diners, each version of that dish is the same.  Villa cautions that the restaurant is not a “factory” but a place which serves consistently beautiful dishes at the peak of their perfection.

The story of Villa’s professional background emphases his early love of fine food, his early and youthful apprenticeship, the speed of his rise, the quickness of his ability to absorb and reproduce a wide array of new and classic foods, and, quite simply, his ability to please his eclectic and sophisticated diners.

After training at the age of 19 at the Culinary Institute of America and a brief apprenticeship at le Cirque and Tropical, Villa really came into his own at the Judson Grill. Within months, at the tender age of 24, Villa had earned a title as Executive Chef and two stars from the New York Times, making him a rising star in the culinary firmament.   Villa’s wildly successful reinvention of the Boathouse in Central Park earned him the Times sobriquet “a prodigy” and another two stars from the New York Times. For Villa’s opening of his own Portuguese inspired restaurant, Pico,  he received another coveted star for a total of three stars from the Times, and a stunning accolade: “’John Villa has created his own private Portugal, a fantasy wrapped in a shimmering haze.’”

But it is at TAO that Chef John Villa has become the mastermind behind one of the largest Pan-Asian kitchens in the world.  He is truly an extraordinary, internationally acclaimed master chef.

Coda: Tao features a unique and striking feature– a huge statue of the Buddha.. The Buddha was brought in through the roof with a giant crane before the restaurant opened in 2000.  Some statistics:  Height: 16 ft tall, Weight: 4,000 pounds,  Material: Wood;  Origin: Designed by Thomas Shoos; carved in Thailand.

We asked, “Why did Chef John decide to import the giant Buddha into the restaurant?”  Villa said .  “The effect on diners is wonderful. The Buddha creates an incredible cultural and possibly spiritual ambience. “   Villa says it always is a pleasure to be there—“everybody loves TAO.”

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Sushi Cafeteria – Review of Ichi Umi

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Ichi Umi
6 East 32nd Street
K-Town
212-725-1333/ichiumi.com

With all-you-can-eat buffets a rare sight in The City, I had been waiting for the perfect time to gorge myself on Sushi at Ichi Umi.  After a short trip to Connecticut, I walked down Madison Avenue to 32nd Street and into the much anticipated megalith of Sushi and other Japanese/Korean fare that housed Ichi Umi.  Walking in to the enormous sushi cafeteria we had about a 30 minute wait ahead of us.  The place was packed, and it was mostly with Asian people.  Most always a good sign when you’re getting ready to dine at an Asian restaurant.

The interior was pleasant with a painted ceiling to look like a blue sky and other shades of blues and greens lining the walls and various lighting fixtures, all designed to mimic the waves of the ocean.  Not so pleasant were the ugly tables, sticky with who knows what, set up in a cafeteria-like inspiring fashion.

Buffet at Ichi Uni

Buffet at Ichi Uni

I went up to the buffet and filled my plate about three times before I hit maximum capacity. [Read more...]