Upclose with Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Why The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best

Hotel Indigo Invites NYC Locals to Meet Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Prove The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best – Friday, September 30, 2011

EVENT REVIEW & INTERVIEW BY CLAIRE McCURDY

Chef Curtis Stone at Dish on the Dish at Hotel Indigo, NYC

The Hotel Indigo was clearly having a bountiful foodie afternoon. The stream of black-clad New York foodies eddied in and out. The ladies in black and white uniforms with trays of little tiny edibles like a wicked maguro roll with dipping sauce cunningly concealed in the bottom of a tiny cup, or a tiny crème brule garnished with an even tinier mint leaf and seated on a red pomegranate base, efficiently made the rounds. The buzz of conversation and appreciation rose.

Displays of local delicacies– from the five boroughs—were mounted around the room. A magnificent Brooklyn bakery, Brooklyn Bread Guy, Inc., with an amazingly wide variety of breads, rolls, baguettes, was posed next to an importer of olive oils so that one could rip off a chunk of fluffy baguette and dunk it into the olive oil seated at the adjacent table and savor both.  Tumbadour chocolates, also from Brooklyn, created by pastry cook Jean Francois Bonnet, (formerly of Daniel Restaurant) were cunningly decorated to display their contents – an abstract swirl of lime for a lime scented chocolate, for example.  They inspired broad smiles in anyone who came to their table, and everyone did.   A Double Cross Pear Martini made with Double Cross Vodka from Slovakia, the delicious garnish of a Chilean Wild Baby Peach, and wild baby pear juice, was amazing, the juice masking the strength of the vodka.

But all of this was merely the introduction. The star of the day and the event was Chef Curtis Stone, Australian super chef, and star not only of the cutting board in Australia, Britain and the US, but also a media darling.

Described variously as an important ’young gun” chef and by People Magazine (to his stated embarrassment) as “one of the sexiest men alive,” Curtis describes himself endearingly as a kid learning about making delicious meals from his mother and grandmother. He said that family and food were a close association with him. And was it not true that most people, when asked what was the best food they could ever remember, was a dish their mother had cooked?  It was certainly true for him.  A cherished memory, family sitting around the table, eating food cooked especially for the occasion, and the meal featuring his mother’s bread—she is a baker. Curtis likes to bake bread from her recipes.  “Good food,” he said, “has that personal touch.”

I asked him if he had a philosophy of food.  He said that a great meal starts with really great fresh ingredients.  Go looking for the perfect local fresh cheese, meats, vegetables–that’s what he wants to have end up, cooked perfectly, at the dinner table.  And remember the cooking timelines of each food element in order to put together your total timetable for cooking the meal. So that the timing of the cooking all works together.

Curtis has said that he loves soaking up local cultures as he travels, so I asked what was his favorite cuisine. He said that French cuisine would have to be at or near the top of his list. That they used their beautiful local produce and products to create brilliant, flavorsome exquisite meals and had been honing their techniques for hundreds of years—to perfection. And that their elegant foods are an integral part of their culture.

Did he have a signature meal? Curtis commented that as one got to know the history of food one learned about certain striking spots – such as Liguria in Italy- the birthplace of pesto.  The name means “pounded.”   Pesto is the pungent, aromatic, brilliant mixture of garlic, basil, and pine nuts pounded together and blended with olive oil and Parmigiano Reggiano.  He said that one could really get a feel for the wonderful taste of squashed mashed young basil leaves.  That it was very important to use young basil leaves.  Then the pesto will be powerful and delicious.

Curtis reluctantly acknowledged that he has become a media darling but insists that it was all by accident.  He said he started with a number of segments, (Oprah, Ellen) during which he worked hard to share his love of food, and that it just caught on. People love food! And they love hearing other people talking well about food!

Who was his favorite talk show host? Curtis adroitly dodged that one, saying that Al Roker comes backstage frequently to sample his wares even when he isn’t on the show, and that he loves Curtis’s cooking.

His advice to a new chef just starting out?  Think of assembling your meal as a Sherlock Holmes or treasure hunt experience.  You start with great fresh local ingredients and then start asking questions about them. And going on a hunt for ingredients which will complement the first element.  Find a great bunch of asparagus—then ask, what goes well with this? A beautiful prosciutto? Then what?   Keep building on those initial blocks and you will have assembled the pieces to a beautiful meal.

When I asked Curtis what he felt was the key to success in his restaurants, he said that he always strove for integrity.  He said that a chef and restaurant owner must love his customers and must care for them and their needs from the minute they walk through the door. The chef’s warm attitude must be consistent throughout their time in the restaurant. Love- that’s the key!

And the perfect note on which to end the conversation.  Curtis had served us the dessert, you might say, and the fine cup of coffee

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What’s On… Bedford Street?

What’s On…Bedford Street?
West Village

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Many blocks in the West Village are culinary goldmines just waiting to be discovered, and Bedford Street is no exception. Home to the famed ‘narrowest house’ in the city at number 75 ½, owners such as Cary Grant and John Barrymore have called the 9 ½ foot wide house theirs. Chumley’s, a once famed speakeasy also called Bedford Street home at number 86 – local folklore tells the story of a man who had too much to drink and was kicked out of Chumley’s, thus creating the term ‘86ed’ known by the restaurant and nightlife industry as a way to do just that.  Although talks of a reopening have been heard through the grapevine no moves have been made and the unmarked door remains closed.  Bar d’O also once resided on Bedford Street, a landmark in the 1990s for some of the best drag shows around where Joey Arias honed his skills.  81 Bedford Street served as a CIA safe house for LSD tests in the 1950s. A two-way mirror conjoined adjacent apartments and allowed “testing” on unsuspecting “volunteers” lured into the apartment.  Today, Bedford Street represents seven different countries, in the gastronomic sense, and provides us with stories of such a colorful past, making it a go-to destination for food and nightlife and reminding us why we love New York so much.

14 Bedford Street – Blue Ribbon Bakery Market
At this market outpost of the Blue Ribbon restaurants it’s all about the bread.  Stop in for a to-go loaf of their delectable bread, or for the perfect nibble any time of day try one of their toasts which range in toppings from manchego and Mexican honey to pork rillette and cornichon.

14 Bedford Street – Quinto Quarto
Although you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported to Rome, most agree that Quinto Quarto is just okay.  Very reasonable prices and healthy portions of pasta bring most to this neighborhood spot; just remember to keep it simple and go pasta.

Cocktail @ Daddy O

21 Bedford Street – ‘ino
Best known for brunch and their mouth watering truffled egg toasts, ‘ino is a small piece of Italy (both literally and figuratively).  A nicely sized Italian wine selection rounds out the mood and menu comprised of Panini and bruschetta.

27 Bedford Street – Cafe Henri
Named after its owner’s dog, Henri this cafe is the perfect spot to duck into and grab a classic French bite including a selection of crepes and a délicieux eggs Benedict.

29 Bedford Street – Ditch Plains
Named after a Long Island beach, you’ll find your surf shack favorites kicked up a few notches.  From warm crab dip to lobster rolls and a complementary salt water taffy ending, Ditch Plains reminds the city’s Long Island natives of blissful Summers on the beach.
*It may be a seafood place, but try the ditch dogs!

44 Bedford Street – Daddy O

Come for cocktails and tater tots at Daddy O – a comfortable neighborhood bar where the bartenders are amicable and pour their love into every cocktail.  Whether starting your night, or ending your night, cozy on up to a few of your favorite friends and sip away.  *Really, try the tater tots!

46 Bedford Street – The Village Tavern
As your average sports bar, The Village Tavern does the trick. Prime times can get too crowded for comfort, so stop by during the day on a weekend for some QT with your game of choice.

63 Bedford Street – Snack Taverna
Don’t let the name fool you, Snack Taverna is a great place for more than just snacking.  Solid Grecian fare featuring your standard – chicken, lamb, and fish make Snack Taverna an old standby for many.  Locals flock to this place, making it hard to find a seat at prime times.

72 Bedford Street – Casa
Brazilian food just like your grandmother made (if you’re Brazilian that is), Casa features traditional Brazilian dishes and stews served in a cozy atmosphere complete with white cotton place-mats.  Come early to beat the crowds and leave full, very full.

90 Bedford Street – Moustache Pitza
Known for their pitzas (oven baked pita dough with Med inspired toppings), Moustache is a favorite with the local crowd.  Very reasonable prices and other classic Mediterranean entrees dotting the menu, mean no one is complaining about the simple, yet tasty fare.


90 Bedford Street - The Little Owl
The Little Owl demonstrates what refined, well thought-out food is all about.  The American-Mediterranean menu by Chef Joey Campanaro epitomizes why American cuisine is today a force to be reckoned with.  *Try their soft shell crab to start or the signature pork chop.

122 Christopher Street (@ Bedford) Lima’s Taste Ceviche Bar
If you’re in the mood for ceviche, Lima’s Taste is your cure.  Don’t forget to try the pisco sours!

Many blocks in the West Village are culinary goldmines just waiting to be discovered, and Bedford Street is no exception. Home to the famed ‘narrowest house’ in the city at number 75 ½, owners such as Cary Grant and John Barrymore have called the 9 ½ foot wide house theirs. Chumley’s, a once famed speakeasy also called Bedford Street home at number 86 – local folklore tells the story of a man who had too much to drink and was kicked out of Chumley’s, thus creating the term ‘86ed’ known by the restaurant and nightlife industry as a way to do just that.  Although talks of a reopening have been heard through the grapevine no moves have been made and the unmarked door remains closed.  Bar d’O also once resided on Bedford Street, a landmark in the 1990s for some of the best drag shows around where Joey Arias honed his skills.  81 Bedford Street served as a CIA safe house for LSD tests in the 1950s. A two-way mirror conjoined adjacent apartments and allowed “testing” on unsuspecting “volunteers” lured into the apartment.  Today, Bedford Street represents seven different countries, in the gastronomic sense, and provides us with stories of such a colorful past, making it a go-to destination for food and nightlife and reminding us why we love New York so much.

14 Bedford Street – Blue Ribbon Bakery Market
At this market outpost of the Blue Ribbon restaurants it’s all about the bread.  Stop in for a to-go loaf of their delectable bread, or for the perfect nibble any time of day try one of their toasts which range in toppings from manchego and Mexican honey to pork rillette and cornichon.

14 Bedford Street – Quinto Quarto
Although you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported to Rome, most agree that Quinto Quarto is just okay.  Very reasonable prices and healthy portions of pasta bring most to this neighborhood spot; just remember to keep it simple and go pasta.

21 Bedford Street – ‘ino
Best known for brunch and their mouth watering truffled egg toasts, ‘ino is a small piece of Italy (both literally and figuratively).  A nicely sized Italian wine selection rounds out the mood and menu comprised of Panini and bruschetta.

 

Truffled egg toast @ ‘ino – Photo courtesy of Meng H. on Yelp.com

27 Bedford Street – Cafe Henri
Named after its owner’s dog, Henri this cafe is the perfect spot to duck into and grab a classic French bite including a selection of crepes and a délicieux eggs Benedict.

29 Bedford Street – Ditch Plains
Named after a Long Island beach, you’ll find your surf shack favorites kicked up a few notches.  From warm crab dip to lobster rolls and a complementary salt water taffy ending, Ditch Plains reminds the city’s Long Island natives of blissful Summers on the beach.
*It may be a seafood place, but try the ditch dogs!

44 Bedford Street – Daddy O

Come for cocktails and tater tots at Daddy O – a comfortable neighborhood bar where the bartenders are amicable and pour their love into every cocktail.  Whether starting your night, or ending your night, cozy on up to a few of your favorite friends and sip away.  *Really, try the tater tots!

 

Cocktail @ Daddy O

46 Bedford Street – The Village Tavern
As your average sports bar, The Village Tavern does the trick. Prime times can get too crowded for comfort, so stop by during the day on a weekend for some QT with your game of choice.

63 Bedford Street – Snack Taverna
Don’t let the name fool you, Snack Taverna is a great place for more than just snacking.  Solid Grecian fare featuring your standard – chicken, lamb, and fish make Snack Taverna an old standby for many.  Locals flock to this place, making it hard to find a seat at prime times.

72 Bedford Street – Casa
Brazilian food just like your grandmother made (if you’re Brazilian that is), Casa features traditional Brazilian dishes and stews served in a cozy atmosphere complete with white cotton place-mats.  Come early to beat the crowds and leave full, very full.

 

Pork sausage and empanadas @ Casa

90 Bedford Street – Moustache Pitza
Known for their pitzas (oven baked pita dough with Med inspired toppings), Moustache is a favorite with the local crowd.  Very reasonable prices and other classic Mediterranean entrees dotting the menu, mean no one is complaining about the simple, yet tasty fare.


90 Bedford Street - The Little Owl
The Little Owl demonstrates what refined, well thought-out food is all about.  The American-Mediterranean menu by Chef Joey Campanaro epitomizes why American cuisine is today a force to be reckoned with.  *Try their soft shell crab to start or the signature pork chop.

122 Christopher Street (@ Bedford) Lima’s Taste Ceviche Bar
If you’re in the mood for ceviche, Lima’s Taste is your cure.  Don’t forget to try the pisco sours!

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'Ino on Urbanspoon

Daddy-O on Urbanspoon

Blue Ribbon Bakery Market on Urbanspoon

Moustache on Urbanspoon

Casa on Urbanspoon

What’s On… Irving Place?

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On… Irving Place?
Gramercy, Manhattan

Where Lexington Avenue meets Gramercy Park South lies a long-time village standby – Irving Place became a literary haven in the 19th and early 20th centuries, serving as the stomping grounds for O. Henry (though not it’s name-sake, Washington Irving) and housing the offices of literary magazines, The Dial and The Nation (the U.S.’s oldest, currently running magazine) who’s contributors include Jean Paul Sartre, George Orwell, and Hunter S. Thompson. The offices of the New York branch of the Rosicrucian Order, and Washington Irving High School also call Irving Place home.

17 Irving Place – Irving Plaza
Originally opened in 1860 as “Irving Hall”, Irving Plaza has long been a fixture in the music and theatre culture of New York City.  Today, find rock acts on nearly any night of the week with a nationally known selection to suit any mood.

33 Irving Place – The Cottage
While The Cottage to most is just another mediocre Chinese takeout spot close to home – the NYU clientele see The Cottage as a free unlimited wine (with a purchase of dinner) haven.  Sure, the wine may not be top notch but what poor college student can turn down free wine?

Cottage on Urbanspoon

Casa Mono

52 Irving Place – Casa Mono

Ok, ok so no one likes the eternally surly service found at Casa Mono – but no one can deny the fact that Chef Andy Nusser has created an inventive twist and visually beautiful array of classic Spanish dishes all while earning a Michelin Star.  *Helpful Hint: Try your darnedest to ignore the rude, rude service, the food will taste that much better.

Casa Mono on Urbanspoon

125 East 17th Street – Bar Jamon
Who can talk about Casa Mono without mentioning its sister bar, Bar Jamon?  Located right next door (or around the corner if you will), though not on Irving Place, skip the ‘tude here and head straight for the wine list and chalked up menu of cold plates.  Helpful staff will assist in choosing the perfect glass for your taste buds as you munch on a plate of paper thin sliced jamon. *Try the pulpo with spicy garbanzos.

Bar Jamón on Urbanspoon

53 Irving Place – Pierre Loti Wine Bar
One of three locations in Manhattan, this Irving Place venue is the perfect spot for a pre-dinner glass of vino. The comfortable, intimate atmosphere and long wine list may make it a little too easy to linger past your dinner reservation.  Food is pricey for what it is, but selections of olive, cheese and charcuterie seem to be just what the doctor ordered.

Pierre Loti on Urbanspoon

 

Niwa Maki @ Pure Food and Wine – Photo courtesy of Radford T. on yelp.com

54 Irving Place – Pure Food and Wine
Although pricey, this gourmet raw food establishment draws patrons from all walks of life – including those who are just curious about raw cuisine.  Whether you’re a fan of the raw cuisine, or not no one can deny the beautiful presentations and the serene decor.

The historic front bar @ Pete’s Tavern

129 East 18th Street (Corner of 18th Street & Irving Place)- Pete’s Tavern
With its address on East 18th and its main entrance on Irving Place, Pete’s Tavern, established in 1864 is the oldest continually running bar and restaurant in Manhattan surviving even the prohibition era with a floral shop front.  Come for the historic, friendly bar and skip the food.

Pete's Tavern on Urbanspoon

56 Irving Place – Cibar @ The Inn at Irving Place
Cibar is a good go-to in the area where you can find a good time, anytime, with friends or on a date.  Try a martini from their extensive list and enjoy this old standby for its classically chic interior or it’s comfortable outdoor patio and quality drinks.

Cibar on Urbanspoon

 

56 Irving Place – Lady Mendl’s Tea Salon @ The Inn at Irving Place
Open only for only 3 sittings of tea a day, Lady Mendl’s is a great treat for those who are hankering for high tea.  Enjoy 5 courses for $35, including sandwiches, scones, and cakes.  Lady Mendl’s also offers shower packages for a very proper English bridal or baby shower.

Lady Mendl's on Urbanspoon

71 Irving Place – 71 Irving Place Coffee & Tea Bar
One of two outposts in the city for the Irving Farm Coffee Company, this coffee and tea bar is a can’t miss for coffee connoisseurs.  Come later in the day for a more peaceful (read: way less crowded) experience, but come any time for great coffee.

71 Irving Place Coffee & Tea Bar on Urbanspoon

77 Irving Place – Choshi Restaurant
Named after a fishing city in Japan, Choshi – a rather typical sushi restaurant – has a dedicated following, making the waits sometimes very long.  The fish is always fresh and the pleasant outdoor seating on Irving makes Choshi an even more sought after spot. Check Choshi out between 5 and 6:30pm daily for a great early bird special!

 

Crab cake appetizer @ Friend Of A Farmer

 

Warm apple pie @ Friend Of A Farmer

77 Irving Place – Friend of a Farmer
Bringing your grandma’s country house to Manhattan, Friend of a Farmer serves homespun American classics in an atmosphere to match.  The extensive menu boasts something for everyone – even the most picky of eaters and with one of the most popular brunches in the city Friend of a Farmer is the perfect weekend family getaway when you just can’t seem muster the strength to actually leave.

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The Oldest Bar in New York: Review of The Bridge Café

BY PAUL from BeerClubGuide.com for The Gotham Palate

The Bridge Café
279 Water St
Financial District
212-227-3344 / bridgecafenyc.com/
Serving lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch

In 1974, a chap named Newell Narme erected a wood building at 279 Water Street, on the banks of the East River. Originally a “grocery and wine and porter bottler,” the humble pub has been through several metamorphoses since then. In 1847, when Henry Williams opened a porter house in the building, the space was officially recognized as a drinking establishment, making the building the oldest bar in New York City.

For its first century, 279 Water Street was primarily a grocery and saloon frequented by fishermen, dock workers, prostitutes and their customers; it has also been a pirate bar, a packing store, a Hungarian restaurant and a seafood restaurant.  When Henry Williams opened his bar, the building was essentially a brothel; a census revealed that several prostitutes lived in the building.

In 1883, the Brooklyn Bridge was erected, forever changing the landscape of 279 Water Street. No longer did the East River flow past the building, and the area became even more disreputable. During Prohibition, the building served as a speakeasy, serving food and cider as a matter of course, but also making bootlegged beer available to its customers.

The current owners purchased the space in 1979, renaming the saloon the Bridge Café. Its proximity to Wall Street has made the Café a regular haunt for financial and political types. In fact, former mayor Ed Koch was known to frequent the Bridge Café throughout his time in office. The Café became known to the rest of the country when it was used as a set during the filming of Gangs of New York.

In 2007, the Bridge Café was the location of an EPIC paranormal investigation. The team didn’t experience any strange activity, but there are still reports of the sound footsteps, the smell of lavender, unexplained shadow movement and the persistent feeling of being watched.

Today, the Café is known for its outstanding selection of wine, scotch and bourbon—a far cry from the rum, applejack, beer and Madeira served when the bar first opened.

Executive Chef Joseph A. Kunst uses seasonal, organic, locally produced proteins, dairy, fruit and vegetables in his American Eclectic cooking. In addition to lamb, steak and buffalo, the menu consists mostly of seafood and shellfish. Start with the Steamed P.E.I. Mussels served with Andouille Sausage, Jalapeno Peppers, Cilantro, Spicy Tomato Broth ($13) and try the Grilled Wild Pacific Salmon with Ginger-Lime Vinaigrette, Avocado, Red Onion & Watercress Salad ($27) for dinner.

Paul also writes on the Beer Maven Blog at BeerClubGuide.com, a site that rates and reviews beer clubs.

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Bridge Cafe on Urbanspoon

The Spirit of Brazil: A Feast of Cachacas at the New York Bar & Wine Show

BY ELENA MANCINI

Among the three hundred odd exhibitors that showcased their distilled goods at this year’s New York Bar and Wine Show at the Jacob Javits Center, Brazil’s national spirit did more than hold a candle to the scores of artisinal bourbons, absinthes and seductive dessert cocktails–including a dangerously delicious vodka-infused Adult Chocolate Milk.

The Brazilian pavilion was vibrantly populated by nine cachaça distributors and manufacturers, Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF), Austin-based coffee importer, Casa Brasil, and representatives of the Brazilian government, which included Counsellor Pedro Terra of the Consulate General of Brazil in New York.


From aged- to variously-flavored specimens, served straight or in seasonal creative caipirinha mixes, cachaças of all stripes were featured at this annual industry event.  It was impossible for me to sample all of the cachaças at the show, but I tasted more than a modest cross-section of the offerings.

From a fantastically refreshing traditional caipirihna, made in accordance with the traditional recipe which consists of cachaça, freshly cut limes, lime juice and sugar cane prepared by Velho Barreiro, a purveyor of cachaça since 1873, to a spicy and surprisingly thirst-quenching gazpacho caipirihna, offered by the Cuca Fresca stand, I was able to discern cachaças’ pure flavor and versatility. Cuca Fresca, which means a “to have cool head,” or “to be relaxed” in Portuguese is a premium artisanal cachaça that is four generations in the making.

Inspired by the taste and superior quality of the cachaças prepared by her family in Brazil, Araci Ferreira, founder and president of Cuca Fresca, decided that she would make it available to all who wished to experience the “spirit” of Brazil and started her company in Pleasantville, New York in 2006. Cuca Fresca has an impressive line of caipirinhas, all organic without additives or artificial coloring. I was enthralled with the entire range. At the show, I learned that a fine, aged cachaça can have the same warming depth and woodsy richness of an aged single malt. I sampled a wonderful specimen of this at 61 and Cuca Fresca. Cuca Fresca’s aged cachaça was 80 proof and aged four years. With summer weather in full sweltering gear, I found myself appreciating the qualities of silver and the unaged, naturally-flavored offerings of Cuca Fresca. Particularly enjoyable was a caipirinha made with Cuca Fresca’s coconut-milk flavoured cachaça. At a considerably lower alcohol per volume percentage of 21, it kept consumption of the entire cocktail a stumble-free pleasure. The smooth mild brews of Casa Brasil of Austin,Texas also provided welcome  caffeine interventions.

Grilled Linguica from Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF)

A big hit at the show–and what also helped to make copious beverage sampling possible– was the seemingly endless supply of tasty, continuously freshly grilled linguiça sausage offered by Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF) of North Bergen, New Jersey. The tender, juicy roundlets of linguiça were moderately seasoned and the plump texture delivered a nice snap to every bite. They fueled many a drink at the show, and not just the cachaça-based ones.


Vocalist Joyce Candido performing at the Brazilian pavilion of the NY Bar & Wine Show

The Brazilian party was complete when vocalist Joyce Candido and her group took the makeshift stage and the pavilion and filled the space with her soulful, charismatic voice and the Bossa Nova sounds produced by her accompanying percussionist and bass player. Candido’s voice made the Brazilian pavilion a focal point at the show.

This year’s Bar & Wine Show was not only a great occasion to sample the many  facets and flavors of cachaça, but also to learn about this spirit’s special history and identity and the hurdles that currently prevent it from being properly recognized in the United States. Cachaça, Brazilian rum, as it is falsely labelled and marketed in the United States, is the third most consumed spirit in the world. While cachaça is a predecessor of rum, it is markedly distinct from rum in its history, culture, taste and composition. It was first produced during Brazil’s colonial period, roughly between 1530-1550, and was largely consumed by slaves and peasants.  Unlike rum, which is made from molasses, a by-product of sugarcane, cachaça is made from raw sugar cane. This major difference is also reflected in the taste of both beverages. Cachaça is notably less sweet than rum and has a lingering mildly-bitter aftertaste.

The reason for this Brazilian misnomer in the United States? According to Counsellor Pedro Terra, the question of the cachaça’s misrepresentation in the United States is one of labelling and not of challenged trade relations. The Brazilian government has been actively engaged and formally vying to have cachaça recognized in the United States under its proper name through diplomatic dialogue with the United States since 2001. According to Terra, “the recognition of cachaça is part of a broad agenda of economic exchanges between the United States and Brazil that are discussed on a yearly basis at the Economic Partnership Dialogue.” Terra pointed to lengthy bureaucratic procedures and processes as the principal cause for delay in cachaça’s proper labelling. Nevertheless, the pending recognition of cachaça in the United States is not only perpetuating a misnomer and false marketing, but is also to the disadvantage of Brazilian farmers and manufacturers, for whom the sales and marketing of this product directly impacts. Commenting on the current state of the recognition process, Terra asserted that several significant mileposts had already been achieved on the road toward proper labelling of the Brazilian national spirit, including the recognition of cachaça by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, and that the process was continuing to move forward.

Leblon Caipirinha Truck in Meatpacking District, NYC

The business community has also offered vigorous parallels to these recognition efforts by increasing cachaça’s visibility and raising awareness about its unique flavor profile. Cachaça distributors have made remarkable strides over the past few years to have cachaça recognized for what it is. Most eminently leading the way in this campaign is Leblon with its moving caipirinha trucks offering free caipirinha samples and copious ads, which champion the slogan to “legalize cachaça.” The clamor is thoroughly justified, and the taste and culture from which cachaça derives clearly generates a demand for more of it.

For those who missed the show or would like to sample a broad range of cachaças, fret not: as Cachaçaria Boteco in Tribeca is a full bar that features cachaças of all sorts and pairs them with Brazilian dishes and tapas.  Cachaçaria also hosts an annual cachaça festival. For more information, go to http://cachacariaboteco.com/.

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The Spirit of Brazil: A Feast of Cachacas at the New York Bar & Wine Show

BY ELENA MANCINI

Among the three hundred odd exhibitors that showcased their distilled goods at this year’s New York Bar and Wine Show at the Jacob Javits Center, Brazil’s national spirit did more than hold a candle to the scores of artisinal bourbons, absinthes and seductive dessert cocktails–including a dangerously delicious vodka-infused Adult Chocolate Milk.

The Brazilian pavilion was vibrantly populated by nine cachaça distributors and manufacturers, Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF), Austin-based coffee importer, Casa Brasil, and representatives of the Brazilian government, which included Counsellor Pedro Terra of the Consulate General of Brazil in New York.


From aged- to variously-flavored specimens, served straight or in seasonal creative caipirinha mixes, cachaças of all stripes were featured at this annual industry event.  It was impossible for me to sample all of the cachaças at the show, but I tasted more than a modest cross-section of the offerings.

From a fantastically refreshing traditional caipirihna, made in accordance with the traditional recipe which consists of cachaça, freshly cut limes, lime juice and sugar cane prepared by Velho Barreiro, a purveyor of cachaça since 1873, to a spicy and surprisingly thirst-quenching gazpacho caipirihna, offered by the Cuca Fresca stand, I was able to discern cachaças’ pure flavor and versatility. Cuca Fresca, which means a “to have cool head,” or “to be relaxed” in Portuguese is a premium artisanal cachaça that is four generations in the making.

Inspired by the taste and superior quality of the cachaças prepared by her family in Brazil, Araci Ferreira, founder and president of Cuca Fresca, decided that she would make it available to all who wished to experience the “spirit” of Brazil and started her company in Pleasantville, New York in 2006. Cuca Fresca has an impressive line of caipirinhas, all organic without additives or artificial coloring. I was enthralled with the entire range. At the show, I learned that a fine, aged cachaça can have the same warming depth and woodsy richness of an aged single malt. I sampled a wonderful specimen of this at 61 and Cuca Fresca. Cuca Fresca’s aged cachaça was 80 proof and aged four years. With summer weather in full sweltering gear, I found myself appreciating the qualities of silver and the unaged, naturally-flavored offerings of Cuca Fresca. Particularly enjoyable was a caipirinha made with Cuca Fresca’s coconut-milk flavoured cachaça. At a considerably lower alcohol per volume percentage of 21, it kept consumption of the entire cocktail a stumble-free pleasure. The smooth mild brews of Casa Brasil of Austin,Texas also provided welcome  caffeine interventions.

Grilled Linguica from Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF)

A big hit at the show–and what also helped to make copious beverage sampling possible– was the seemingly endless supply of tasty, continuously freshly grilled linguiça sausage offered by Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF) of North Bergen, New Jersey. The tender, juicy roundlets of linguiça were moderately seasoned and the plump texture delivered a nice snap to every bite. They fueled many a drink at the show, and not just the cachaça-based ones.


Vocalist Joyce Candido performing at the Brazilian pavilion of the NY Bar & Wine Show

The Brazilian party was complete when vocalist Joyce Candido and her group took the makeshift stage and the pavilion and filled the space with her soulful, charismatic voice and the Bossa Nova sounds produced by her accompanying percussionist and bass player. Candido’s voice made the Brazilian pavilion a focal point at the show.

This year’s Bar & Wine Show was not only a great occasion to sample the many  facets and flavors of cachaça, but also to learn about this spirit’s special history and identity and the hurdles that currently prevent it from being properly recognized in the United States. Cachaça, Brazilian rum, as it is falsely labelled and marketed in the United States, is the third most consumed spirit in the world. While cachaça is a predecessor of rum, it is markedly distinct from rum in its history, culture, taste and composition. It was first produced during Brazil’s colonial period, roughly between 1530-1550, and was largely consumed by slaves and peasants.  Unlike rum, which is made from molasses, a by-product of sugarcane, cachaça is made from raw sugar cane. This major difference is also reflected in the taste of both beverages. Cachaça is notably less sweet than rum and has a lingering mildly-bitter aftertaste.

The reason for this Brazilian misnomer in the United States? According to Counsellor Pedro Terra, the question of the cachaça’s misrepresentation in the United States is one of labelling and not of challenged trade relations. The Brazilian government has been actively engaged and formally vying to have cachaça recognized in the United States under its proper name through diplomatic dialogue with the United States since 2001. According to Terra, “the recognition of cachaça is part of a broad agenda of economic exchanges between the United States and Brazil that are discussed on a yearly basis at the Economic Partnership Dialogue.” Terra pointed to lengthy bureaucratic procedures and processes as the principal cause for delay in cachaça’s proper labelling. Nevertheless, the pending recognition of cachaça in the United States is not only perpetuating a misnomer and false marketing, but is also to the disadvantage of Brazilian farmers and manufacturers, for whom the sales and marketing of this product directly impacts. Commenting on the current state of the recognition process, Terra asserted that several significant mileposts had already been achieved on the road toward proper labelling of the Brazilian national spirit, including the recognition of cachaça by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, and that the process was continuing to move forward.

Leblon Caipirinha Truck in Meatpacking District, NYC

The business community has also offered vigorous parallels to these recognition efforts by increasing cachaça’s visibility and raising awareness about its unique flavor profile. Cachaça distributors have made remarkable strides over the past few years to have cachaça recognized for what it is. Most eminently leading the way in this campaign is Leblon with its moving caipirinha trucks offering free caipirinha samples and copious ads, which champion the slogan to “legalize cachaça.” The clamor is thoroughly justified, and the taste and culture from which cachaça derives clearly generates a demand for more of it.

For those who missed the show or would like to sample a broad range of cachaças, fret not: as Cachaçaria Boteco in Tribeca is a full bar that features cachaças of all sorts and pairs them with Brazilian dishes and tapas.  Cachaçaria also hosts an annual cachaça festival. For more information, go to http://cachacariaboteco.com/.

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What’s on Stone St.?

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On… Stone Street? (Between Williams and Pearl)

Financial District

 

Photo by Carolyn Onofrey


Approaching the alleyway we now know as Stone Street around quitting time on any day when the weather is nice enough to enjoy from outside, you will find suited men and women in droves scattered about the car-less cobble-stoned street. Picnic tables crowd the first “paved” street in Manhattan and for the first time in about a hundred years Stone Street is once again a bustling haven.  In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries Stone Street flourished from the maritime business that the nearby port created, but over the next 150 years the street became abandoned and dilapidated and in 1980 was even completely taken off the map and relocated to what we now know as South William Street.  It wasn’t until 1996 when the street was reopened and declared a historic district.  Now, you can find a global selection of restaurants and pubs making Stone Street a can’t miss destination for both tourists and locals alike.
Burger Burger Pick-Up Window (77 Pearl Street). One, in a series of new burger joints popping up in the Financial District, Burger Burger is best suited if you’re craving a lunchtime burger. The lack of seating and otherwise take out style décor doesn’t bother the lunchtime crowd because there are a slew of parks in the area to enjoy your burger in.  Although some quip that it isn’t the best burger in the neighborhood, the sweet potato fries are worth a try.

Burger Burger on Urbanspoon
45 Stone Street – The Dubliner
As your average Irish pub- The Dubliner does its job by getting its patrons nice and loose in a raucous atmosphere.  Stop by for a perfectly poured pint of Guinness and enjoy inside the sprawling 2 story space or outside on Stone Street.

79 Pearl Street – Waterstone GrillWith a back entrance on Stone Street Waterstone Grill may get more traffic than it should with and uninspiring menu aimed to please however reasonable the prices may be.  The look is slightly more upscale than most on Stone Street, but for most it doesn’t impress.

Stone Street Tavern on Urbanspoon

 

 

A quaint Stone Street - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

81 Pearl Street – Becketts

If you’re in the Financial District and a jam-packed sports bar is the name of your game, then Beckett’s is the place for you.  Drinks and food can add up quickly, but the feeling that Beckett’s doesn’t try to be something it’s not leaves regulars and first timers alike at ease and coming back for more.

52 Stone Street – Stone Street Tavern

Brunch or drinks are your best bet at Stone Street Tavern with a beer list to keep most satiated.  The cozy interior is inviting and tops the list of many who work in the area as the perfect place for an after work pint or quick bite to eat.  Try the brunch for a selection of just about anything your mood desires.

 

Brunch at Smorgas Chef

53 Stone Street – Smorgas Chef
Serving Scandinavian fare by a Scandinavian staff, this Manhattan 3some (with locations in the West Village and on Park Avenue) fills the bill if salmon and caviar are what’s on your mind.  Try the weekend brunch, when a quiet Stone Street makes this a diamond in the not-so rough.

17 South William Street – Crepes Du Nord
The official address may be on South William, but with an entrance through the afore mentioned Smorgas Chef, Crepes Du Nord gets a spot on the Stone Street ‘What’s On…?’.  Sweet and savory crepes litter the menu with a Scandinavian flair.  Try the Crepe Complete for a savory brunch fix.

Crepes du Nord on Urbanspoon

 

 

Serious eats at Adrienne’s – Photo courtesy of Lunch Studio

54 Stone Street – Adrienne’s Pizza Bar

Adrienne’s Pizza Bar is truly a pizza parlor in a wine bar.  This classy spot is a great place to take a date that’s sure to impress.  Regulars say the old fashioned pan pizza is the only way to go, with its thin, yet bready crust and top notch toppings.  You’ll spend a little more (read: about $30) for a pizza here but you certainly won’t mind once you bite into Adrienne’s unique pie.

Gourmet pizza meets wine bar, why didn’t anyone else think of this?

 

Serious eats at Adrienne’s – Photo courtesy of Lunch Studio

83 Pearl Street – Mad Dog & Beans

If you’re on Stone Street and not craving pub fare or pizza, Mad Dog is the place to go.  This Mexican spot is pricey (though many say worth it), but most just go for the margaritas.

Mad Dog and Beans on Urbanspoon

 

57 Stone Street – Vintry Wine & Whiskey

Vintry Wine & Whiskey does just that – wine and whiskey.  With a tremendous whiskey and well rounded wine selection, Vintry is a great spot to take the wine or whiskey connoisseur. One or two ounce pours for the hard stuff and two or five ounce pours for wine make this a true tasting experience.  Order a few of the small plate options and you have a great night ahead of yourself!

Vintry Wine & Whiskey on Urbanspoon

95 Pearl Street – Ulysses’
Although the official address is on Pearl Street, most know Ulysses’ for its rear entrance on the cobble-stoned street where outdoor tables fill the roadway.  Ulysses’ has a good selection of beer from around the world and an impressive list of whiskey to choose from.  Ulysses’ also sports a full menu with raw bar and a weekend brunch with can’t-miss $5 cocktails.  Try the Bloody Maureen for a meal in itself – Bloody Mary mix and Guinness garnished with bacon and a hunk of Guinness marbled bleu cheese!

Ulysses on Urbanspoon

Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

62 Stone Street – Financier

This Financial District mini-chain since 2002 has been serving fine coffee and pastries to everyone and anyone who craves these affluent nibbles.  Financier carries a full line of French dessert options as well as a substantial breakfast and lunch menu.  Loyal followers say their coffee (served with a little treat on the side) can’t be beat!

 

Waterstone Grill on Urbanspoon

Waterstone Grill on Urbanspoon

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What's on Stone St.?

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On… Stone Street? (Between Williams and Pearl)

Financial District

 

Photo by Carolyn Onofrey


Approaching the alleyway we now know as Stone Street around quitting time on any day when the weather is nice enough to enjoy from outside, you will find suited men and women in droves scattered about the car-less cobble-stoned street. Picnic tables crowd the first “paved” street in Manhattan and for the first time in about a hundred years Stone Street is once again a bustling haven.  In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries Stone Street flourished from the maritime business that the nearby port created, but over the next 150 years the street became abandoned and dilapidated and in 1980 was even completely taken off the map and relocated to what we now know as South William Street.  It wasn’t until 1996 when the street was reopened and declared a historic district.  Now, you can find a global selection of restaurants and pubs making Stone Street a can’t miss destination for both tourists and locals alike.
Burger Burger Pick-Up Window (77 Pearl Street). One, in a series of new burger joints popping up in the Financial District, Burger Burger is best suited if you’re craving a lunchtime burger. The lack of seating and otherwise take out style décor doesn’t bother the lunchtime crowd because there are a slew of parks in the area to enjoy your burger in.  Although some quip that it isn’t the best burger in the neighborhood, the sweet potato fries are worth a try.

Burger Burger on Urbanspoon
45 Stone Street – The Dubliner
As your average Irish pub- The Dubliner does its job by getting its patrons nice and loose in a raucous atmosphere.  Stop by for a perfectly poured pint of Guinness and enjoy inside the sprawling 2 story space or outside on Stone Street.

79 Pearl Street – Waterstone GrillWith a back entrance on Stone Street Waterstone Grill may get more traffic than it should with and uninspiring menu aimed to please however reasonable the prices may be.  The look is slightly more upscale than most on Stone Street, but for most it doesn’t impress.

Stone Street Tavern on Urbanspoon

 

 

A quaint Stone Street - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

81 Pearl Street – Becketts

If you’re in the Financial District and a jam-packed sports bar is the name of your game, then Beckett’s is the place for you.  Drinks and food can add up quickly, but the feeling that Beckett’s doesn’t try to be something it’s not leaves regulars and first timers alike at ease and coming back for more.

52 Stone Street – Stone Street Tavern

Brunch or drinks are your best bet at Stone Street Tavern with a beer list to keep most satiated.  The cozy interior is inviting and tops the list of many who work in the area as the perfect place for an after work pint or quick bite to eat.  Try the brunch for a selection of just about anything your mood desires.

 

Brunch at Smorgas Chef

53 Stone Street – Smorgas Chef
Serving Scandinavian fare by a Scandinavian staff, this Manhattan 3some (with locations in the West Village and on Park Avenue) fills the bill if salmon and caviar are what’s on your mind.  Try the weekend brunch, when a quiet Stone Street makes this a diamond in the not-so rough.

17 South William Street – Crepes Du Nord
The official address may be on South William, but with an entrance through the afore mentioned Smorgas Chef, Crepes Du Nord gets a spot on the Stone Street ‘What’s On…?’.  Sweet and savory crepes litter the menu with a Scandinavian flair.  Try the Crepe Complete for a savory brunch fix.

Crepes du Nord on Urbanspoon

 

 

Serious eats at Adrienne’s – Photo courtesy of Lunch Studio

54 Stone Street – Adrienne’s Pizza Bar

Adrienne’s Pizza Bar is truly a pizza parlor in a wine bar.  This classy spot is a great place to take a date that’s sure to impress.  Regulars say the old fashioned pan pizza is the only way to go, with its thin, yet bready crust and top notch toppings.  You’ll spend a little more (read: about $30) for a pizza here but you certainly won’t mind once you bite into Adrienne’s unique pie.

Gourmet pizza meets wine bar, why didn’t anyone else think of this?

 

Serious eats at Adrienne’s – Photo courtesy of Lunch Studio

83 Pearl Street – Mad Dog & Beans

If you’re on Stone Street and not craving pub fare or pizza, Mad Dog is the place to go.  This Mexican spot is pricey (though many say worth it), but most just go for the margaritas.

Mad Dog and Beans on Urbanspoon

 

57 Stone Street – Vintry Wine & Whiskey

Vintry Wine & Whiskey does just that – wine and whiskey.  With a tremendous whiskey and well rounded wine selection, Vintry is a great spot to take the wine or whiskey connoisseur. One or two ounce pours for the hard stuff and two or five ounce pours for wine make this a true tasting experience.  Order a few of the small plate options and you have a great night ahead of yourself!

Vintry Wine & Whiskey on Urbanspoon

95 Pearl Street – Ulysses’
Although the official address is on Pearl Street, most know Ulysses’ for its rear entrance on the cobble-stoned street where outdoor tables fill the roadway.  Ulysses’ has a good selection of beer from around the world and an impressive list of whiskey to choose from.  Ulysses’ also sports a full menu with raw bar and a weekend brunch with can’t-miss $5 cocktails.  Try the Bloody Maureen for a meal in itself – Bloody Mary mix and Guinness garnished with bacon and a hunk of Guinness marbled bleu cheese!

Ulysses on Urbanspoon

Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

62 Stone Street – Financier

This Financial District mini-chain since 2002 has been serving fine coffee and pastries to everyone and anyone who craves these affluent nibbles.  Financier carries a full line of French dessert options as well as a substantial breakfast and lunch menu.  Loyal followers say their coffee (served with a little treat on the side) can’t be beat!

 

Waterstone Grill on Urbanspoon

Waterstone Grill on Urbanspoon

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Sabores! A Brazilian culinary tour-de-force in NYC

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Tambaqui-ribs-with-chili-citrus-glaze-and-corn-salad

What better way to kick off the month of June than with a sampling of Brazilian fare at the French Culinary Institute?

On June 1st,  Gourmet Latino and Brazilian Specialty Foods guided guests on a culinary tour of Brazilian flavors. A draining hot day was perfect for a demo by Chef Jacques Gautier of Palo Santo in Park Slope. He brought his knowledge of Brazilian fish to the kitchen for a lovely tasting and discussion on sustainability.

The first recipe was grilled tambaqui ribs with chili citrus glaze and corn salad. Not your typical pork or beef rib, it was refreshing to have a moist and flavorful fish served on the bone, alongside a light corn salad utilizing seasonal ingredients. Not too overpowering, the dish is perfect as a small plate on a hot summer day.


The second dish was pan roasted pintado with black beans, farofa verde, calabresa (Brazilian sausage) and watercress. Pintado is more commonly called Brazilian bass and is found deep in the Paraguay River. Farofa is similar to parmesan or bread crumbs, Gautier said, and was toasted with lard and onion to garnish the dish.

Both fish were from Mar & Terra, a Brazilian fish production plant that uses eco-friendly technologies and creates farm and production jobs for the Brazilian countryside. Tambaqui and Pintado are available in the US through Brazilian Specialty Foods.

My experience with Brazilian food has been minimal. I visited Churrascaria Plataforma last year when a friend insisted it was a one-of-a-kind experience. However, that Brazilian steakhouse was not the relaxing dining scenario I was expecting, and was just too overwhelming to enjoy.

Gautier’s presentation has re-ignited my interest in Brazilian food, now that I realize the country has many more wonderful things to offer. The country is one of the biggest food producers and exporters in the world, and their desire to promote their food using sustainable practices should serve as a model to food producers around the world.

I appreciate the country’s commitment to sustainability and their wholehearted effort to share gastronomic delights with the world. Brazil is using its food to benefit both their land and people, while aiming to feed communities beyond Brazil. Many of us are hungry to learn more about this beautiful country and its distinct products.

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Everything you loved about college and more – Review of Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club

BY STEPHANIE AMY COLLAZO

Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club
89 South St.
South Street Seaport – New York, NY
(212) 896-4600
Beekmanbeergarden.com

View of the Brooklyn Bridge from the outdoor seating area. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

A post-grads dream, the Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club has everything you loved about college and more.  There is foosball, pool, ping-pong, great food, a light up lounge area and of course beer.

Entering from the street side of Pier 17 the first thing you see is the large black Beekman Beer Garden sign.  Making a left at the sign you are then face to face with the fun ping-pong and foosball tables and a tented seating area with a bar and a food trailer to your right.

Before finding seats we quickly surveyed the venue walking towards the back area, which featured white couches in what I have come to call the adult sandbox.

Glowing lounge area at the Beekman Beer Garden and Beach Club. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Later in the night we learned that these couches lit up, and the view of the Brooklyn Bridge was even more beautiful than ever.

Drink of the night “Beach Ball.” Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Making our way back into the tent one of the waitresses offered us the drink of the night, which was called a Beach Ball.  When asking what was in the peach colored concoction the waitress said she was unsure but it was a mixture of rums.  The drink was very sweet, it tasted like it was made of peach schnapps and Malibu rum.

People surrounding the server with the burgers. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The wait staff was also passing around a number of hors d’oeuvres, which for the most part were delicious, but none went over as well as the burgers.  As soon as the wait staff would walk away from the kitchen area the crowd would mob them before they could make it three feet from the pick up table.

Oyster with salsa fresca. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The first of many hors d’oeuvres we sampled were oysters on the half shell with a salsa fresca, which are regularly priced at six for $12 or 12 for $20.  The oyster tasted very fresh and the salsa fresca made for a great alternative to the usual cocktail sauce and lemon combo.

Next we had the coconut shrimp with orange marmalade.  This had to be some of the best coconut shrimp I’ve had at a bar to date, it’s only competition being the coconut shrimp from the lazy boy saloon in White Plains.  The batter was nicely browned and had a wonderful crunch.  Sadly the coconut shrimp has not yet made it on the menu but I am hoping it will in the near future.

Piece of a Chicken Quesadilla. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo

The chicken quesadilla ($8) fell a little short; it was simply grilled chicken and cheese in a tortilla.  This was something I felt I could make at home; it didn’t really stand out to me in comparison with the other hors d’oeuvres.

Bratwurst on a Pretzel Bun. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Last but certainly not least was the bratwurst served on a pretzel bun ($6).  This was served with some deli mustard and paired nicely with my Ommegang Witte ale. The beer was a pale ale similar to a Belgian-white and went well with all of the food.  The after taste of the beer reminded me of the taste left in your mouth after smoking a djarum black clove cigarette, which may be seen as an odd comparison to some but those who have smoked the brand before will know exactly what I mean.

The night finished off with my new friends and myself sipping Malibu Bay Breezes barefoot in the adult sandbox, discussing how we soon planned to return to the Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club.

There are plans for the venue to host free indie rock concerts, as well as a few ticketed events, throughout the summer making the Beekman Beer Garden a definite hot spot this summer.

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