Chef gives ‘off the cuff’ lecture on his love for Italian cooking – Event at 92Y Tribeca

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Rons Suhanosky's Spread

Chef Ron Suhanosky eats pasta with tomato sauce almost every day.

Suhanosky, who opened Sfoglia on the Upper East Side and in Nantucket with his wife, released his second cookbook, The Italian Table, this past fall.

In a lecture Thursday at 92Y Tribeca, he discussed his love for Italian food and gave some cooking advice.

After working for years in New York City restaurants, including River Cafe and Il Buco, Suhanosky wanted to return to his passion for down-home Italian food. Inspired by his travels in Italy, he realized it was time to be “more off the cuff,” he said.

Last month he opened Nonna’s Table, 163 E. 92nd St. which offers specialty foods, cooking classes and private dinners. His mother provides the pastries.

Rather than working tirelessly over restaurant recipes, Suhanosky now wakes up in the morning and decides what he feels like cooking for his customers. What he likes, customers will like, he said. It’s all about using the ingredients properly.

“The simpler food is, the more Italian it is, in my mind,” he said.

But one of his favorite melt-in-your mouth delights isn’t from Italy — it’s from Mars.

A bowl of perfectly cooked al dente pasta, fresh tomato sauce, and a bag of peanut M&M’s are the keys to this chef’s heart.

For information on booking a cooking class or private dinner, call 212-831-9200.

What’s On… Amsterdam (btwn 74th & 75th Street)

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Upper West Side

The late 20th century brought with it the rise of Amsterdam Avenue;  becoming one of the most affluent neighborhoods in Manhattan at the time.  Several institutes of higher learning call Amsterdam Ave home, including City College, John Jay College, Columbia University, and Yeshiva University as well as Saint Luke’s Hospital and New York Presbyterian Medical Center.  While the backside of the Beacon Theater (est 1926) occupies most of the block between 74th and 75th streets on Amsterdam, there are some great choices for pre/post theater (or for any time!) on this and the surrounding corners.

167 74 Street – Levain Bakery
Just around the northeast corner of 74th street lies Levain Bakery.  A tiny, decor-less, space (essentially a kitchen fronted by a counter), Levain dishes out some mighty tasty treats (notably their stellar chocolate chip cookie) that are worth the trip no matter where you’re coming from or where you might be headed – unless you might be headed to East Hampton, where they have a second location.

Levain Bakery on Urbanspoon
300 Amsterdam – Josie’s
Josie’s is a family friendly spot, specializing in fresh and organic fare. Best suited for lunch, Josie’s bright flavors and cheerful decor will leave you feeling refreshed.  Some quip the prices are a little steep, but for the neighborhood and a satisfying meal – spot on.
Josie's on Urbanspoon

By Carolyn Onofrey

303 Amsterdam – Freddy & Peppers Pizza
Pizza toppings abound at Freddy & Peppers where you can get just about any craving on top of a pizza pie. Goat cheese, beans, avocado, seafood, and even a ratatouille slice are all the norm here. *try the Chilean empanadas for an added bonus.
Freddie and Pepper's on Urbanspoon

311 Amsterdam – Fusha West
If it’s Asian fusion you’re looking for, then Fusha West is a good bet.  Although prices are what you’d expect for the neighborhood, most agree the decor and service can justify the extra dollar or two tacked on to each dish. *Try the guacamole with spicy tuna and wasabi chips.

Fusha West on Urbanspoon

164 75 Street – ‘Cesca
At the northeast coner on 75th street, ‘Cesca spells solid Italian for the Upper West Side.  A front bar lends itself to ice breaking on many a first date; a precursor to a meal that may just sweep her off her feet for you.  A nice Italian wine list and menu items that you haven’t seen a million times before make ‘Cesca a standby that we hope won’t go anywhere soon. *Like ‘Cesca?  Check out their sister restaurant Accademia di Vino across town.
Cesca on Urbanspoon

Cream of Wheat Goes Gourmet

BY BECKA WOOLF

Foods that remind you of your childhood. Ready, set, go!

Some that come to mind for me are Corn Flakes, grilled cheese and pancakes. Easy, affordable, accessible, staple foods. Many people across the country would say that Cream of Wheat is one of those items that they remember eating as a child. However, did you ever think that Cream of Wheat could be a main component of an upscale dish, such as Crispy Catfish Fritters with Red Hot Cilantro Aioli or “French Style” Cream of Wheat with Mushrooms and Leeks?

Cream of Wheat Upside-Down Apple Cake

Family favorite Cream of Wheat has partnered with an all-star line-up of chefs to launch Cream of Wheat Goes Gourmet, a charitable initiative leveraging the product’s rich history and exciting versatility. Earlier this year, the brand invited top chefs around the country to develop upscale recipes featuring Cream of Wheat as a key ingredient. Eight notable chefs tapped into their favorite memories of Cream of Wheat and merged it with their distinctive styles to create unique recipes.

Participating chefs and their recipes include:

  • Antonia Lofaso of Bravo’s “Top Chef” fame, created Crispy Catfish Fritters with Red Hot Cilantro Aioli
  • Arturo McLeod of Benjamin Steak House in New York, created Cinnamon Swirl Nut Cake
  • Claudine Pepin, noted chef and author of “Jacques Pepin’s Kitchen: Encore with Claudine,” created “French-Style” Cream of Wheat with Mushrooms and Leeks
  • Donatella Arpaia of Donatella, DBar and Iron Chef America, created Upside Down Apple Cake
  • Jet Tila of Wazuzu in Las Vegas created Crispy Thai Salmon with Green Apple Slaw
  • Josh Wahler of Fox’s “Hell’s Kitchen” and Symcha’s in South Beach, created Pan Seared Chardonnay & Thyme Marinated Florida Black Grouper with White Truffle Scented Cream of Wheat and Citrus Grilled Asparagus
  • Michael Ferraro of Delicatessen and macbar in New York, created Cream of Wheat Crusted Tuna with Charred Corn Cream of Wheat Sauce and Marinated Tomatoes
  • Sara Moulton, noted chef and star of “Sara’s Weeknight Meals,” created Warm Creamy Mocha Pudding

Each recipe and accompanying photo can be easily downloaded from the Cream of Wheat Facebook page.  In addition to making a monetary donation in each chef’s name, the brand will donate one box of Cream of Wheat to a national  hunger relief charity, up to 5,000 boxes, for every recipe downloaded on Facebook. Please do your part by liking the Cream of Wheat Facebook page and downloading recipes.

I got to chat with celebrity chef Donatella Arpaia about some of her childhood Cream of Wheat memories:

Donatella Arpaia

Do you have memories of eating Cream of Wheat as a child? What other foods remind you of your childhood?

We used to call Cream of Wheat “farina” when I was growing up.  I remember the original box had a little blond boy on the box cover.  On especially cold weekend mornings, my mom would make the special treat for us – we were used to cold cereal during the week so this was always a special treat!  My mother would also make my siblings and I Cream of Wheat as a nighttime snack and swirl maple syrup throughout the creamy mixture.  I have fond memories of sharing a bowl right before bedtime.

Your recipe for Upside Down Apple Cake looks delicious! Do you have any other favorite C of W recipes?

I really enjoy adding Cream of Wheat to my muffin recipes.  They change up the texture making it similar to cornbread and add a slightly sweet and hearty flavor to any muffin recipe.  Truly delicious!

 As a food blogger, I am always looking for affordable ways to create memorable dishes that look more expensive than they really are! Cream of Wheat seems like a great way to do that. Any other tips?

I am a firm believer that presentation is the way to make humble, affordable dishes look more expensive.  Next time serve up your Cream of Wheat in a stemless martini glass and top it with edible gold dust for a special finishing touch!

Who knows – maybe Cream of Wheat will be the next secret ingredient in Iron Chef AmericaAlton, are you reading?

“Better Than Wine”: Cheese and Beer Pairings

BY ERIN PALISIN

92Y, 1395 Lexington Ave.
Upper East Side

(212) 415-5500

Beer and pizza.. Beer and burgers.  Beer and…cheese? Although typically most people think of wine when they hear cheese, it turns out that beer serves as a versatile and downright delicious pairing for the cheese lover in us all. The night’s instructors (Martin Johnson of The Joy of Cheese and Maggie Fuller of 12% Imports) showed a great deal of both knowledge and passion for their respective fields and provided a very educational and fun setting for the evening.

The event featured nine beer and cheese pairings that were each discussed in detail by the instructors. The instructors were also eager to make this an interactive experience and encourage as many questions as came up. One “student” asked a particularly useful question: “Is there a specific way we should be tasting cheese or something specific we should be looking for when tasting.” We all learned that the key to a good cheese tasting is simple: let it sit on the tongue for a moment before chewing and think of what the cheese reminds you of. Most cheeses get their flavor from the diet of the cow, goat or sheep that the milk comes from. If you taste a hint of thyme in your cheese, you are most likely correct and chances are that it was part of the animal’s diet. Taste is one of the most powerful memory triggers. Who knew that cheese could evoke such emotion and bring back a specific memory or experience?

There are a few pairings and pieces that were of particular interest to this taster. We started the evening off with the L’Amuse; a smoked gouda variety. I have never been a big fan of gouda but I have never tasted a gouda quite like this one. Instructor Martin Johnson described this as one of the most “underrated” cheeses out there. It seemed like we started the night with dessert first as the L’Amuse had a very candy- like flavor to it with a subtle hint of butterscotch and a salty finish. The beer pairing for this cheese was the Dormal Amber Ale of Brouwerij Hoften in Belgium. Both this beer and the second beer were bottled with corks and preserved a very champagne-like quality of these bubbly, herbal ales going very well with the dessert like cheeses they were paired with.

Another very successful pairing featured two domestic products: the Extra Aged Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese and the Stillwater Cellar Door beer. The cheese, from Dodgeville, WI is a three-time “Best in Show” winner at the annual American Cheese Society’s awards event. Its nutty and smooth flavor was finished with a surprising “crunch” that we learned is actually an amino acid crystallization that is born throughout the aging process. The Stillwater Cellar Door ale was my favorite drink of the night. Brewed in Maryland the hint of sage and herbal tones in this beer made it crisp and very easy to drink.

Although we will likely never stop thinking that wine and cheese are a great pairing, hopefully the beer and cheese trend will continue to gain momentum. With several specialty cheese shops and countless numbers of bars and restaurants with craft beers on tap here in New York, we have plenty of opportunity to put our taste buds to the test. As our instructor’s put it, “Beer and cheese speak at the same volume.” That is neither one over powers each other and they can each stand out in their own right. Cheers!

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What’s On…Bayard Street? (Between Mott and Elizabeth)

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

What’s On…Bayard Street? (btwn: Mott and Elizabeth Streets)
Chinatown

 

Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

The colorful past of Bayard Street in Chinatown began in the early 19th Century as its location landed it in the famed Old Sixth Ward and internationally known slum, 5 Points.  Disease and unparalleled violence for over 70 years made Bayard Street a place that most did not venture. Mott (at Bayard St), came in to the news again in 1989 when police confiscated 820lbs of heroin from Peter Woo, then 71 and owner of Tai Pei Liquors,  who was the largest importer of heroin at the time.  Today, Bayard Street is still shrouded in a bit of mystery, located in the heart of Chinatown where we hope things haven’t been cleaned up too much – however, there are some wonderful finds for those seeking a different kind of adventure.

Hot chocolate drink with puffed rice @ Bubbly Tea

55B Bayard Street – Bubbly Tea
The name says it all – Bubbly Tea is the go-to location in Chinatown for bubble tea (tea mixed with tapioca beads).  With many flavors, hot or cold, to choose from and a bonus snack menu, who can resist some Bubbly Tea? *They often have drinks on promotion; ask the cashier what you can get for a discount!
Bubbly Tea on Urbanspoon

Durian hanging in the window at #59 Market

57 Bayard Street – Bayard Meat Market
Fresh, reasonably priced meat is what you’ll get at the Bayard Meat Market.  Satisfyingly clean surroundings and a selection of dumplings and other cooked foods available for take-out make the Bayard Market a stop for many on their way home from work at night.

59 Bayard Street – Bayard Fish Market
Right next door to (and the sister market of) Bayard Meat Market is the Bayard Fish Market.  A good selection of fish and shellfish as well as fresh produce make this, and the former, the only place you’ll have to stop before you head home to make dinner.

61 Bayard Street – Yuen Yuen
Unsuspecting Yuen Yuen has been a staple in Chinatown for as long as (at least the people who know it’s there) can remember.  Yuen Yuen serves comforting home-style Chinese food at prices that don’t seem to have risen much since the beginning of time (most dishes come in at about $5!).  Don’t let the non-existent decor deter you – stop in and try one of the glutinous ball soups and the almond tea.

64 Bayard Street – Mei Li Wah Bakery
Stop at Mei Li Wah for the pork buns and leave happy, very happy.  At 80 cents each, it makes it easier to ignore the huge vats of MSG that pile up on the sidewalk outside.
Mei Li Wah on Urbanspoon

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

65 Bayard Street – Chinatown Ice Cream Factory
Authentic Asian flavors make the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory a go-to for year round ice cream treats.  Stop by for flavors including black sesame, green tea, red bean, and almond cookie for a truly authentic Chinatown experience (at truly Manhattan prices).

65 Bayard Street – Old Sichuan
The Sichuan province in China is known for its spicy food and numbing Sichuan peppercorn.  Old Sichuan aims to please those looking for just that.  While not the spiciest Sichuan in the city, it ranks among the best of its kind if you’re in Chinatown.  Nicer than average Chinatown decor make this haunt a go-to for out-of-towners.

Old Sichuan on Urbanspoon

66 Bayard Street – Nice Green Bo
The dumplings are indeed nice and the decor indeed green at Nice Green Bo.  Stop in if you’re passing by to give their soup dumplings a try (in an area where the soup dumpling reigns king) – but don’t make it a special trip.

Nice Green Bo (was New Green Bo) on Urbanspoon

 

Famous lamb burger at Xi’an Famous Foods

Famous lamb burger at Xi’an Famous Foods
67 Bayard Street – Xi’an Famous Foods
This NYC mini chain pumps out cheap and crave worthy fast food style Chinese food.  Most say the cumin spiced lamb burger is the only way to go here (and indeed, it is addictingly delicious), but lamb and pork centered noodle dishes can certainly hit the spot also.

Xi'An Famous Foods (Chinatown, Bayard) on Urbanspoon

69 Bayard Restaurant

69 Bayard Street – Sun Lin Garden
Chinatowns favorite (and maybe only) “diner” serves the drunken college aged of Chinatown 24 hours a day.  Dollar bills line the walls, and while it might not be food you’ll enjoy when you’re sober, regulars all have their own go to at 3AM earning this place a spot in the books as an NYC landmark we hope won’t ever go away.

Sun Lin Garden Restaurant on Urbanspoon

69 Bayard Restaurant
70 Bayard Street – Neighborliness Bakery
Okay, so it’s not the cleanest place on the block, but the name says it all.  Clientele is comprised mostly of an older set of neighbors making this place intimidating for some, but a natural choice for others.  Sweet treats and coffee occupy most of the menu and are best for takeout if its Chinese desserts you’ve got a hankering for.

72 Bayard Street – Hsin Wong
Try Hsin Wong if you’re in the mood for the wonderful world of Chinese roast meats.  Roast duck and pork are the stars of the menu here – but most will agree the congee is reputable as well.  The lunch hour can get crowded and rushed, so try Hsin Wong for dinner at prices that will make you smile.

Hsin Wong on Urbanspoon

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Showcasing specialty roasts and Brazilian delights – Casa Restaurant hosts Cafés do Brasil Week Brunch

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Kicking Off Cafés do Brasil Week at Casa – November 12, 2011

Cafés do Brasil sponsored a lovely brunch and coffee tasting Saturday morning at Casa, 72 Bedford St. in the West Village.

Casa is located on a cozy corner of New York City’s oldest street and serves up regional Brazilian home cooking. It was the ideal spot for an authentic experience in Brazilian flavors.

The brunch kicked off Cafés do Brasil Week, a week-long event during which 20 New York City restaurants will be serving Cafés do Brasil specialty coffees. The event runs until Saturday, November 19.

Brazil is the biggest coffee producer in the world. Attendees at Saturday’s brunch tasted three coffees — starting with Mogiana, a light-bodied selection from Minas Gerais, Cerrado from Sao Paulo, and Planalto, a rich option from Bahia.

Brazilian Farm Breakfast @ Casa

Eggs Florentine with Organic Baby Spinach and roasted potatoes with Linguiça

For brunch, Casa served each person a basket of sugar and cinnamon donuts, yucca and coconut cake and cheese bread “Pao de Queijo.” Along with the coffees, this was a perfect pick-me-up to start off a beautiful Saturday. The main dish was Eggs Florentine with organic baby spinach and roasted potatoes. Brazilian Specialty Foods provided sausage “Linguica” as an optional accompaniment to the egg dish. It was hearty and full of flavor.

For a complete list of participating Cafés do Brasil Week venues, see http://cafesdobrasil.com.

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Give Now and Double the Impact of Your Thanksgiving Donations

In New York City, 76 percent of all households with children struggle to afford food.It is startling, yet true, that children are one of the biggest groups that rely on soup kitchens and food pantries.

With so many New Yorkers struggling to afford food, an anonymous donor is doubling all gifts until we have raised $1 million — DONATE TODAY and help provide twice as many Thanksgiving meals for families in need!

Click on the image above to make your donation today.

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Teasing Customers One Spice at a Time – Review of Spices and Tease

BY LISA M. NGUYEN

Spices And Tease
2580 Broadway (Between 97 & 98 Streets)
spicesandtease.com
/ 347-470-8327

Upper West Side

 This unique stand once started off selling at street fairs, being the odd one out with their robust aromas of different spices and teas, which included 30 varieties of homemade spice blends, over 70 original spices and 180 imported teas.  While walking around Madison Square Park’s food festival, other stands were cooking pizza, hot dogs, sandwiches, and then there was Spices and Tease.  

You’ll be able to find your classic tea’s, like Earl Grey and Chai, but you’ll also be able to try something out of the ordinary like their Dark Choco Orange Black Tea, made with orange bits, cocoa bits, cardamom, and pink pepper.  This mix creates a comfort with the taste buds and turning plain water into a work of art. You can also try one of their other tea’s like their Mango Pineapple Chili, which they like to call their “Pirate of the Caribbean” tea.  This mixture is made up with mango flakes, chili powder, and pineapple pieces.  A soothing and flavorful mix.

Going for $7 for a small tin and $10 for a large, these fancy tins keep the tea and spice’s fresh, and are made for the perfect gift for your family and friends.

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Chocolate, Cheese and Wine: A Celebration of Taste

CLAIRE McCURDY

 

Alexandra Leaf


Is it possible to have too much chocolate at one sitting?  I wouldn’t have thought so, but I must confess that I now know the answer is yes. Even if the chocolate is all delicious. Think of the Halloween sack, or hollow pumpkin, or UNICEF box in which you deposited your treats. If you ate them all at once you’d feel a little – say- overwhelmed.

And so it was this evening. But I’m glad I came.

The 92Y had issued a generous invitation to foodies:  “Join us for this walk-around pairing, featuring an array of hand-crafted chocolates, cheeses, pastries and wines.”

“Meet local producers, increase your knowledge of artisanally-made foods, and seek inspiration for your holiday table.”

It did sound wonderful. Unfortunately or fortunately, the spread was almost entirely of chocolate. Hand dipped chocolate. Chocolate brownies. Hot chocolate.  Chocolate martinis More little ovals and squares with cunning little sprinkles of things on top. True, some bonbons were paired with chucks of very aged Gouda, which was a great idea since the intensely salty cheese took the edge off the eternal sweet things. . And there were some wonderful wines and mixed drinks in the center of the room to which you could repair.

Note, I’m not complaining. I wish I had been able to eat each one of my chocolates, leave, take a turn around the block and come back in. But no dice. The Y treated this event with the gravity and officiousness (and possibly, concern for security) that it would treat piano recital- tickets, lines, guided tours up the stairs (not the elevators) and a sharp eye on the participants. So there we all were with our chocolates.  A difficult fate.

The two stars of the evening were Fairway’s Master Baker Sarah Black and Costas Mozouras, Resident Mixologist of Gotham Wines and Liquors. Sarah Black was there to share the  secrets of The Best Brownie in the World.

Sarah Black and Fairway Market are not shy about advertising  its delicious Brownies.  “Kosher under the Supervision of Rabbi Abraham Marmorstein;  Artisanal Baked Goods, passed down three generations from Pauline LaMarche to her daughter Ann Black to her daughter Sarah Black, Fairway’s Baker Director. Offering the best brownie to the best market in the world to customers who know what the ‘best’ means. ”

It was truth in advertising.

And best of all, Fairway/Black customers were cordially  invited to sample a brownie and take one home for a friend.  It was a hit. This take home brownie was solemnly pronounced –if not  the best, right up there close to the top. It disappeared within two minutes. Even the cats sampled the crumbs and pronounced themselves pleased., wandering about looking longingly for more.

Costas Mozouras,  resident mixologist of Gotham Wines and Liquors, accompanied by Mixologist Raoul Segarra,  occupied  the tables in the center of the room the room.  The seductive sounds of shaken ice and liquor drew all.

Imagine that- the star of the show was a wicked- white chocolate martini, with chocolate infused gin (I think) and white chocolate gently dusted around the rim of the glass, It was so very good it was hard not to stay close to the tables for the rest of the evening.

Flanking the martini were the wines.  I picked a Pinot Noir to sample from Gotham Wines’s extensive selections. A Daedalus Pinot Noir 2008 From Willamette Valley, Oregon. It was light  and subtle and best of all, dry- no sticky sweet aftertatste after all the many sweet things I’d imbibed.  It deserved a fine meal to complement it.

Cafe, O CAFÉ,  the first coffee bar in New York to serve coffee brewed  from the highest quality Brazilian beans, also had a fine spiel:   “We make the Big Apple a Green Apple.”

Café owner Fernando Aciar’s just-launched a Brazilian café.   Brazil offers  extraordinary potential for the production of rare coffee beans,  yet to be discovered by the mainstream coffee market.    The café offers you  the opportunity to   “Pair a Bahian chocolate-infused latte with savory pão de queijo, a toothsome roll made from yucca flour and Minas cheese. Come spring, refresh with superfruit (açai, cupuaçu) pulp juices sourced from the Amazon.”

With O Café, I  believe, it was pastries. Undoubtedly they were wonderful. I was a little dazed by this time.

Chocolat Moderne’s Chocolate Atelier is staging a “bloody good time” now, for Halloween, through tonight.   They advertise “bloody hearts, new pumpkin pie bonbons, and new fiendishly hot drinking  chocolate.”

Go, you will not be disappointed.

While the atelier’s chocolates were utterly delicious, the not too sweet hot chocolate was quite wonderful on a very unseasonably cold night.  It also took the edge off the many sticky sweet things I had tasted that evening. I’d happily have gulped it- instead, the piping heat meant that I had to sip it slowly.  Just as well.

Mille Feuille Bakery Café. I’ d say this was the top of the line:  fine French goods. Chef Olivier is obsessed with pasty. “He spent a year at the famous Ritz Cooking School in Paris where he learned how to make delicious pastry During a trip to New York City  in 2009, Olivier and his wife fell in love with this incredible city and conceived of a project: a French style bakery with the homely and welcoming atmosphere of a Village café that would offer French and American pastries with a fine taste, using organic and all-natural products – a combination of the French touch with American openness. “

Macarons, breakfast pastries, dessert pastries- the menu is packed with sweets as well as genteel French lunch and dinner fare. This is one follow-up trip I feel I owe to myself.

Finally another chocolate fest.  R+D Chocolate, which stands for “research and development” — our approach to chocolate making, the result of a Ph.D. in bioengineering, years of training as a research scientist, and an obsession with chocolate.”  “It also stands for “rachel and david Gordon.”

Their pr is truly poetic.  “we turned to making our ideal chocolates. We are obsessed with (dark) chocolate and chocolates that are wholesome, pure, and overwhelmingly satisfying. These are chocolates that are not too sweet, that capture the essence of their ingredients. All of our products are made by hand (by Rachel).    We use only the highest quality ingredients, including locally produced ingredients whenever possible, and we make everything to order in small batches. “

These chocolates were magnificent. I was again tempted to keep hovering but collected myself and bag and made tracks.

As a final treat here is the irresistible abridged list of the flavors one can sample while also suggesting new and different flavors of one’s own.

“Current Menu (all coated in 72% Dark Chocolate unless otherwise specified):

72% Araguani chocolate ganache

Fleur de sel caramels

Raspberry ganache

Lemon verbena ganache

Elderflower ganache

Passion fruit ganache

Chocolate mint ganache

Strawberry pâte de fruit

St. Germain ganache

Lagavulin 16 yr scotch ganache

Black raspberry ganache…………………………………..”

Enjoy

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Upclose with Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Why The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best

Hotel Indigo Invites NYC Locals to Meet Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Prove The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best – Friday, September 30, 2011

EVENT REVIEW & INTERVIEW BY CLAIRE McCURDY

Chef Curtis Stone at Dish on the Dish at Hotel Indigo, NYC

The Hotel Indigo was clearly having a bountiful foodie afternoon. The stream of black-clad New York foodies eddied in and out. The ladies in black and white uniforms with trays of little tiny edibles like a wicked maguro roll with dipping sauce cunningly concealed in the bottom of a tiny cup, or a tiny crème brule garnished with an even tinier mint leaf and seated on a red pomegranate base, efficiently made the rounds. The buzz of conversation and appreciation rose.

Displays of local delicacies– from the five boroughs—were mounted around the room. A magnificent Brooklyn bakery, Brooklyn Bread Guy, Inc., with an amazingly wide variety of breads, rolls, baguettes, was posed next to an importer of olive oils so that one could rip off a chunk of fluffy baguette and dunk it into the olive oil seated at the adjacent table and savor both.  Tumbadour chocolates, also from Brooklyn, created by pastry cook Jean Francois Bonnet, (formerly of Daniel Restaurant) were cunningly decorated to display their contents – an abstract swirl of lime for a lime scented chocolate, for example.  They inspired broad smiles in anyone who came to their table, and everyone did.   A Double Cross Pear Martini made with Double Cross Vodka from Slovakia, the delicious garnish of a Chilean Wild Baby Peach, and wild baby pear juice, was amazing, the juice masking the strength of the vodka.

But all of this was merely the introduction. The star of the day and the event was Chef Curtis Stone, Australian super chef, and star not only of the cutting board in Australia, Britain and the US, but also a media darling.

Described variously as an important ’young gun” chef and by People Magazine (to his stated embarrassment) as “one of the sexiest men alive,” Curtis describes himself endearingly as a kid learning about making delicious meals from his mother and grandmother. He said that family and food were a close association with him. And was it not true that most people, when asked what was the best food they could ever remember, was a dish their mother had cooked?  It was certainly true for him.  A cherished memory, family sitting around the table, eating food cooked especially for the occasion, and the meal featuring his mother’s bread—she is a baker. Curtis likes to bake bread from her recipes.  “Good food,” he said, “has that personal touch.”

I asked him if he had a philosophy of food.  He said that a great meal starts with really great fresh ingredients.  Go looking for the perfect local fresh cheese, meats, vegetables–that’s what he wants to have end up, cooked perfectly, at the dinner table.  And remember the cooking timelines of each food element in order to put together your total timetable for cooking the meal. So that the timing of the cooking all works together.

Curtis has said that he loves soaking up local cultures as he travels, so I asked what was his favorite cuisine. He said that French cuisine would have to be at or near the top of his list. That they used their beautiful local produce and products to create brilliant, flavorsome exquisite meals and had been honing their techniques for hundreds of years—to perfection. And that their elegant foods are an integral part of their culture.

Did he have a signature meal? Curtis commented that as one got to know the history of food one learned about certain striking spots – such as Liguria in Italy- the birthplace of pesto.  The name means “pounded.”   Pesto is the pungent, aromatic, brilliant mixture of garlic, basil, and pine nuts pounded together and blended with olive oil and Parmigiano Reggiano.  He said that one could really get a feel for the wonderful taste of squashed mashed young basil leaves.  That it was very important to use young basil leaves.  Then the pesto will be powerful and delicious.

Curtis reluctantly acknowledged that he has become a media darling but insists that it was all by accident.  He said he started with a number of segments, (Oprah, Ellen) during which he worked hard to share his love of food, and that it just caught on. People love food! And they love hearing other people talking well about food!

Who was his favorite talk show host? Curtis adroitly dodged that one, saying that Al Roker comes backstage frequently to sample his wares even when he isn’t on the show, and that he loves Curtis’s cooking.

His advice to a new chef just starting out?  Think of assembling your meal as a Sherlock Holmes or treasure hunt experience.  You start with great fresh local ingredients and then start asking questions about them. And going on a hunt for ingredients which will complement the first element.  Find a great bunch of asparagus—then ask, what goes well with this? A beautiful prosciutto? Then what?   Keep building on those initial blocks and you will have assembled the pieces to a beautiful meal.

When I asked Curtis what he felt was the key to success in his restaurants, he said that he always strove for integrity.  He said that a chef and restaurant owner must love his customers and must care for them and their needs from the minute they walk through the door. The chef’s warm attitude must be consistent throughout their time in the restaurant. Love- that’s the key!

And the perfect note on which to end the conversation.  Curtis had served us the dessert, you might say, and the fine cup of coffee

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