Scotch maestro conducts single malt pairing – at Brasserie Beaumarchais

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Five fine scotches were paired with a custom meal at Brasserie Beaumarchais in the Meatpacking District this spring.

Scotch lineup at Brasserie Beaumarchais

Whiskey enthusiast Spike McClure worked closely with the brasserie’s chef to create the menu. McClure hosted the meal and instructed us to take a bite of each dish, swallow it, and then sip the designated scotch. McClure said it was acceptable for guests to water down their whiskey if they wanted to.

Single malts are the most individualistic of all Scotch whiskeys; each is produced at a single distillery, rather than being blended with whiskeys from other distilleries.

 

The meal began with an amuse bouche of boiled country ham cooked with hay and jumbo asparagus. The hay complemented the herbal notes of the light gold Glenkinchie, a 12-year malt from the Lowlands of Scotland.

Roasted quail with grapes in white wine sauce

Next came my favorite whiskey of the evening, Cragganmore Distillers Edition 18-year from Speyside, the epicenter of Scotland’s distilleries. Paired alongside roasted quail with grapes and white wine sauce, this amber-colored scotch tasted of prunes, raisins and fruit juice, with a toffee finish. With a cool spring breeze flowing in the restaurant’s door, sipping this whiskey was simply lovely and relaxing. This is light and mellow enough for the warmer months ahead.

Roasted halibut, onion rings with kale

My favorite dish of the evening was the second course: roasted halibut, onion rings and kale. The fish was cooked perfectly, and the kale was bursting with onion flavor. This was paired with Oban Distillers Edition 16-year from the Western Highlands. This salty single malt paired well with the salt from the onion rings and fish.

The third course was beef tenderloin, blue cheese, and English peas paired with the oaky Lagavulin Distillers Edition 17-year from Islay, which McClure called a good “special occasion” whiskey.

Chocolate, chestnut and coffee ice cream sundae

Finally came what McClure called the “most interesting” of the pairings. Talisker Distillers Edition 12-year from Skye offered a maple-glazed bacon taste, paired with a chocolate, chestnut and coffee ice cream sundae. It was certainly the most surprising pairing of the evening, aligning with the popular match-up of chocolate and bacon in the pastry industry the past couple years.

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French, Filling, and Flavorsome – Review of Balthazar

BY STEPHANIE HARRISON

Balthazar Restaurant –
80 Spring St, Soho
212-965-1414 :: www.balthazarny.com

courtesy of luxist.com

courtesy of luxist.com

Hungry couldn’t have described how I felt.  With a no-breakfast morning to begin with and noon rolling around, my stomach was half way done eating itself.  I arrived at Balthazar having no expectations of how the nourriture – that’s food in French – would be like.  This French inspired restaurant is staffed with the most polite hosts in New York City.  Their smiling faces and light voices convinced my cousin and I that a 40-minute wait for lunch was worth it.  Good thing we had no obligations for the rest of the day.  Our entire lunch lasted about two and a half hours, including the pre-lunch cocktail and wait, the meal and conversation, and the dessert that HAD to be ordered although we were stuffed to the bone.  This gorgeous eatery was crowded during our entire meal – from businessmen and women to young couples, Balthazar is the place to be on a Friday afternoon if you have a half-day off!

Duck Confit at Balthazar - courtesy of picasaweb.google.com

Duck Confit at Balthazar - courtesy of picasaweb.google.com

With two Johnny Walker Black and Cokes guzzled, we were finally seated at a booth served by a French waiter (or at least he had the accent, we will deem him Jacques).  After careful deliberation, I decided on the Duck Confit with crispy potatoes, wild mushrooms, and frisée salad, and my cousin choose the Moules Frites (the best $21 mussels I’ve ever had with skinny fries on the side served with a mayonnaise-based sauce – aioli perhaps?).  To accompany our meals, we were recommended with two beers, Chimay (darker, more bitter) and Duvel (more hoppy, light body).

Sir Jacques made rounds to our table at a comfortable pace, not too smothering.  The service was exceptional.  Normally, when I acknowledge that my jeans are getting a bit too snug, that means I’ve had enough.  Not that day.  We topped off our delicious entrees with the infamous Crème Brûlée.  Not too sweet, sugar perfectly browned, Balthazar offered a superb lunch spot for those who have more than 20 minutes to inhale their food.

They also offered their recipes for sale in a book entitled, The Balthazar Cookbook.  If you can’t afford the dish, then try cooking it yourself!

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Paris on a plate: A Review of Sel et Poivre

BY ELENA MANCINI

853 Lexington Avenue
(between 64th & 65th Streets)
Upper East Side
seletpoivrenyc.com

seletpoivre5

Nestled among Upper East side retail boutiques and Lexington Avenue mid-scale eateries stands Sel et Poivre,  a charming French bistro serving Classic French cuisine with contemporary flair. Established in 1989, by the dynamic and dedicated husband-wife team, Executive Chef/Owner Christian Schienle (originally from Austria) and welcoming hostess Pamela Schienle, Sel et Poivre is an elegant neighborhood bistro and a refreshing departure from the over-priced and pretentious, glamor-scenes in the Manhattan restaurant-scape.

The menu features a broad range of French bistro classics as well as a selection of pastas and Mediterranean-inflected dishes, most of which graze just above or below the $20 range.

A great way to begin the dinner is with the Fish soup ($7.75), a flavorsome tomato-based broth with deep seafood flavors harmoniously melding together and distinctive notes of mollusk and octopus. Although it was served with a platter of toasted slices of baguette, shredded Swiss cheese and rouille (red pepper aioli) I preferred to savor the delicious seafood flavors pure and without the accompanying condiments.

For a seasonal appetizer, the celery root remoulade with beets ($7.95)  is an excellent choice. A bed of ruby red beets  provided a meaty pedestal for a toothsome chiffonade of celery root with a cumin-seasoned remoulade sauce. The sauce was imaginatively seasoned with cumin.

The entree of skate was the pinnacle of this dining experience. The beautifully composed dish consisted of a wing tip of skate prepared with  lemon, beurre blanc, and a drizzle of capers.  The delicious and delicate skate was accompanied by a dome of steamed basmati rice. These high-quality ingredients combined for a symphony of bold, simple flavors on the palate ($17.95). This dish was well paired with a superbly dry German 2007 Weingut Himmel “Riesling Spatlese Trocken.”

A terrine of chocolate with raspberry coulis was a worthy coda to this symphony ($6.75). The rich, creamy chocolate lingered on the palate furnishing echoing the flavors of this delicious indulgence long after the deed was done.

Inspired cuisine, relaxed and intimate vibe and affordable prices make Sel et Poivre an obvious neighborhood choice and a worthwhile destination for everyone else.

Sel et Poivre has a full bar with an wide array of French and international wines. The staff is knowledgeable about pairings.

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Adventurous chef’s restaurant hits a high note – A Review of Les Halles

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Les Halles
411 Park Avenue South
Flatiron / Murray Hill
(212) 679-4111/
leshalles.net

Photo courtesy of citysearch.com

Photo courtesy of citysearch.com

Some foodies might begin their New York adventures by eating at a celebrity chef’s establishment, with secret hopes of running into their white-coated heroes in the flesh.

I began my New York life by running into a celebrity chef – literally.

Last June while watching the Stanley Cup Final at Milady’s in SoHo, my friend saw Anthony Bourdain walk by. Naturally, I had to see where my meat-loving soul mate was going for his nightly imbibing and feasting. His destination would surely be a place worth checking out.

Unfortunately, that plan was cut short when I ran straight out of the bar and into Bourdain. As passersby looked on, he responded with a cool “No problem” and moved on with his evening. I did my best fake-casual walk down the street the opposite way. A block later my face cooled off, and I returned to the bar to watch my Pittsburgh Penguins clench the Cup. Needless to say it’s one of my most bizarre (and treasured) celebrity interactions.

Over a year later, I finally landed in the right place: Bourdain’s French brasserie, Les Halles. [Read more...]

An oasis of bygone pleasures – Review of Le Perigord

BY ELENA MANCINI

Le Perigord
405 East 52nd St.
Midtown East
(212) 755-6244 /
leperigord.com

Main Dining Room at Le Perigord

Main Dining Room at Le Perigord

Even though the New York City restaurant scene has experienced a series of revolutions (read: Batali, Vongerichten and David Chang to name a just handful) since that day in 1964 in which Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were photographed underneath the awning of Le Perigord, this delightful Beekman-Place-neighboring flagship continues to shine as an oasis of  Classic French cuisine and hospitality. For those whose celebrity-royalty radars don’t stretch that far back: think Brangelina of the sixties and seventies only more glamorous and  far less self-conscious.

Le Perigord has retained a great deal of the formal elegance of Classic French’s heydey. Diners who enter the intimate and  softly-lit dining room are welcomed by Gallic waiters donning bow ties and smoking jackets, who greet you in French. While the sartorial choice of jeans and a T-shirt might well feel out of place in this solid four-and-a-half decade old flagship of Classic French cuisine, the cordial staff is at a far remove from the stuffy and snubbing sort that rightfully remain the object of caricature. Le Perigord, which is still managed and graciously hosted as a labor of love by its owner of forty-five years, Swiss-born, Georges Briguet,  is a neighborhood restaurant that continues to attract a loyal Sutton Place following and UN diplomats, as well as those who appreciate quality and Old World refinement without the noise and hustle that is typical of trendier establishments on the average yelper’s circuit. [Read more...]

Almost Paradise – Review of Paradis To-Go

BY SARAH IP

Paradis To-Go
114 4th Ave
(between 11th St & 12th St)
East Village

(646) 416-6709 /
paradistogo.com/index.html

Paradis To-Go.  Photo by Sarah Ip.

Paradis To-Go. Photo by Sarah Ip.

Fresh fall tulips and gerbera daisies.  Hot cup of coffee.  Hugs and smiles.  This is a perfect Saturday afternoon lunch with my bestie.

After months of separation, my friend K and I finally made plans to meet up for some quality bonding time.  Where better to catch up than at a cozy little café off of Union Square?  Paradis To-Go is barely the width of a Pinkberry, complete with a pretty scalloped awning and green bench.  Scribbles of pastel-colored chalk covered the menu boards, highlighting the Daily Specials. The two counter attendants reminded me of the lead pair in 500 Days of Summer – but more ‘hippie’ than ‘hipster.’  They were gushingly friendly and seemed genuinely interested in catering to us and making our experience a positive one. [Read more...]