“Better Than Wine”: Cheese and Beer Pairings

BY ERIN PALISIN

92Y, 1395 Lexington Ave.
Upper East Side

(212) 415-5500

Beer and pizza.. Beer and burgers.  Beer and…cheese? Although typically most people think of wine when they hear cheese, it turns out that beer serves as a versatile and downright delicious pairing for the cheese lover in us all. The night’s instructors (Martin Johnson of The Joy of Cheese and Maggie Fuller of 12% Imports) showed a great deal of both knowledge and passion for their respective fields and provided a very educational and fun setting for the evening.

The event featured nine beer and cheese pairings that were each discussed in detail by the instructors. The instructors were also eager to make this an interactive experience and encourage as many questions as came up. One “student” asked a particularly useful question: “Is there a specific way we should be tasting cheese or something specific we should be looking for when tasting.” We all learned that the key to a good cheese tasting is simple: let it sit on the tongue for a moment before chewing and think of what the cheese reminds you of. Most cheeses get their flavor from the diet of the cow, goat or sheep that the milk comes from. If you taste a hint of thyme in your cheese, you are most likely correct and chances are that it was part of the animal’s diet. Taste is one of the most powerful memory triggers. Who knew that cheese could evoke such emotion and bring back a specific memory or experience?

There are a few pairings and pieces that were of particular interest to this taster. We started the evening off with the L’Amuse; a smoked gouda variety. I have never been a big fan of gouda but I have never tasted a gouda quite like this one. Instructor Martin Johnson described this as one of the most “underrated” cheeses out there. It seemed like we started the night with dessert first as the L’Amuse had a very candy- like flavor to it with a subtle hint of butterscotch and a salty finish. The beer pairing for this cheese was the Dormal Amber Ale of Brouwerij Hoften in Belgium. Both this beer and the second beer were bottled with corks and preserved a very champagne-like quality of these bubbly, herbal ales going very well with the dessert like cheeses they were paired with.

Another very successful pairing featured two domestic products: the Extra Aged Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese and the Stillwater Cellar Door beer. The cheese, from Dodgeville, WI is a three-time “Best in Show” winner at the annual American Cheese Society’s awards event. Its nutty and smooth flavor was finished with a surprising “crunch” that we learned is actually an amino acid crystallization that is born throughout the aging process. The Stillwater Cellar Door ale was my favorite drink of the night. Brewed in Maryland the hint of sage and herbal tones in this beer made it crisp and very easy to drink.

Although we will likely never stop thinking that wine and cheese are a great pairing, hopefully the beer and cheese trend will continue to gain momentum. With several specialty cheese shops and countless numbers of bars and restaurants with craft beers on tap here in New York, we have plenty of opportunity to put our taste buds to the test. As our instructor’s put it, “Beer and cheese speak at the same volume.” That is neither one over powers each other and they can each stand out in their own right. Cheers!

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Taco Enfant Terrible takes Manhattan – Review of Teqa

BY ELENA MANCINI

Chef Chris Goossen

Teqa
447 Third Ave.
Murray Hill
212-213-3223
http://www.teqanyc.com/

Murray Hill has gotten a lot of press lately for its notably upgraded restaurant scene over the past couple of years. Amid Les Halles Resto, Zengo, Terroir, inoteca, Teqa is firmly among the key players in raising the neighborhood’s foodie profile. Open for under two years, Teqa is a airy, elegant dimly-lit relaxing space designed by Lesly Zamor with a spacious bar and a decor that evokes South Beach and L.A. more than it does New York. It has recently managed to lure the creative genius of Los Angeles chef and taco guru, Chris Goossen to helm its kitchen.

A fierce, wife-beater-donning 38 year with a boxing background, Goossen’s demeanor is both provocative and entertaining, to say the least: think: the non-compromising standards of Gordon Ramsey, and the badass mystique of Anthony Bourdain, but the L.A. version of both. Goossen’s passion is to celebrate the authentic flavors of Mexico with his inventive and inspired Nouveau Mexican dishes. Goossen has created 42 original tacos with ingredients from around the world. With two decades of the restaurant business under his belt before coming to New York, Goossen brings a wealth of culinary and business acumen to the table. His previous chefing gigs include Dome and Bottega Louie in L.A. and starting his legendary Knockout Taco Truck in the City of Angeles, or “Lost Angeles” as it is cheekily referred to on his fore-arm-lengthed tattoo. Goossen’s reads like an L.A. story through and through. Prior to knocking it out of the park with his taco truck, Goossen had worked as Mark Wahlberg’s private chef for five years.

My dining companion and I had the opportunity to speak with Goossen briefly that evening. The first things that struck me about him were his fierceness and sense of humor. He asked us to pardon the wife-beater, and made a charming joke about the temperature in his workplace. When asked what his culinary vision and message, Goossen responded that his mission is to educate. He explained that “New Yorkers don’t get Mexican food.” They’re not accustomed to the heat and don’t yet have the palate for it. Goossen aims to change that. Part of his vision is also to prove that that fine food can be served on a taco. If you doubt his cred or dedication, Goossen’s created 42 tacos with ingredients from around the world.

Asked how he runs his kitchen, Goossen fired a reflex-like response: I’m a tyrannt. He talked about educating his kitchen staff by not coddling them. He practices breaking people down to build them back up and make them better than before. He summed up his approach by stating: “I’m the nicest a…(insert unisex body part) you’ll ever meet.” Keep reading to find out whether the dishes rise to match the persona.

The menu includes an extensive cocktail list, many of which are made with tequila and a reasonable selection of wines by the glass at the $10 range. Menu categories include appetizers, salads, (all within the $10 – $15 range) three distinct taco categories and main courses (between $17 – $24) and desserts (under $10).

I ordered a rose hibiscus tequila drink. The fresh juice flavors were very pronounced and added a natural bitter-sweet dimension to the sweet tequila undertones. My dining companion ordered spicy cucumber margarita. This was a margarita slam dunk, and is the drink that I will be sure to order on my next visit. Both cocktails were priced at $11.

DISHES SAMPLED:

Dinner began with an order of Taquitos de Carnitas and border chopped salad. The hard shell was filled with juicy braised pulled pork and flavored with salsa mexicana and a modest sprinkling of cotija cheese for creaminess. When taking our order, our server asked us about our heat-factor preferences, and we opted for mild-medium and the taquitos had just the right amount of kick.

Border Chopped Salad at Teqa

The salad was a refreshing segue to the grounding effects of the taquitos. It consisted of vibrant shreds of farmer’s kale jazzed up with jicama, bacon, breadcrumbs and a compelling citrus vinaigrette.

 

Hawaiian Tuna Poke

The Hawaiian Tuna Poke was an ingenious blend of flavors and textures. Made with fresh and generously meaty cuts of Tuna Poke sushi paired with avocado, jalapeno and a light sprinkle of togarashi, or Japanese chili powder, in a hard taco shell, this dish was excitingly scrumptious and lingered pleasantly on my blissful palate.

Oaxacan Style Escolar at Teqa

For the main course, I enjoyed the Oaxacan style fish of the day. On that day it happened to be the esc0lar. It was grilled with subtle seasoning which allowed for the delicate nuances of the fish’s flavors to shine through. The thick chunk of fish was flaky and moist and had a light, but highly enjoyable flavor. It was paired with an elegant smattering of roasted shitake mushrooms. I later read up and escolar and learned that it has been known to cause gastric distress because of its high-oil content if consumed in inordinate quantities. I’m glad to report that I hadn’t noticed any excessive oiliness and suffered no discomfort whatsoever at having enjoyed this dish.

Churros with Vanilla Sauce

Churros with Vanilla Sauce

For dessert we shared the churros with vanilla sauce. The churro orbs were crisp and puffy and had a dense but caky consistency.  Resting atop a seductive bed of warm white wine-infused vanilla sauce, the dessert and the side of fresh berries that accompanied it was gone within less than a handful of minutes.

THE SERVICE: Knowledgeable and attentive without being intrusive. Our servers were consistently able to answer questions about the menu and provide guidance when necessary. Inquired about food allergies and heat-factor tolerance.

Offering a youthful vibe, foodie pleasures and reasonable tabs, Teqa’s an excellent choice for an intimate dinner or for small groups of adults. It also serves lunch and weekend brunch.

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Teqa on Urbanspoon

 

 

Upclose with Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Why The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best

Hotel Indigo Invites NYC Locals to Meet Celebrity Chef Curtis Stone and Prove The Big Apple’s Local Dishes Are the Best – Friday, September 30, 2011

EVENT REVIEW & INTERVIEW BY CLAIRE McCURDY

Chef Curtis Stone at Dish on the Dish at Hotel Indigo, NYC

The Hotel Indigo was clearly having a bountiful foodie afternoon. The stream of black-clad New York foodies eddied in and out. The ladies in black and white uniforms with trays of little tiny edibles like a wicked maguro roll with dipping sauce cunningly concealed in the bottom of a tiny cup, or a tiny crème brule garnished with an even tinier mint leaf and seated on a red pomegranate base, efficiently made the rounds. The buzz of conversation and appreciation rose.

Displays of local delicacies– from the five boroughs—were mounted around the room. A magnificent Brooklyn bakery, Brooklyn Bread Guy, Inc., with an amazingly wide variety of breads, rolls, baguettes, was posed next to an importer of olive oils so that one could rip off a chunk of fluffy baguette and dunk it into the olive oil seated at the adjacent table and savor both.  Tumbadour chocolates, also from Brooklyn, created by pastry cook Jean Francois Bonnet, (formerly of Daniel Restaurant) were cunningly decorated to display their contents – an abstract swirl of lime for a lime scented chocolate, for example.  They inspired broad smiles in anyone who came to their table, and everyone did.   A Double Cross Pear Martini made with Double Cross Vodka from Slovakia, the delicious garnish of a Chilean Wild Baby Peach, and wild baby pear juice, was amazing, the juice masking the strength of the vodka.

But all of this was merely the introduction. The star of the day and the event was Chef Curtis Stone, Australian super chef, and star not only of the cutting board in Australia, Britain and the US, but also a media darling.

Described variously as an important ’young gun” chef and by People Magazine (to his stated embarrassment) as “one of the sexiest men alive,” Curtis describes himself endearingly as a kid learning about making delicious meals from his mother and grandmother. He said that family and food were a close association with him. And was it not true that most people, when asked what was the best food they could ever remember, was a dish their mother had cooked?  It was certainly true for him.  A cherished memory, family sitting around the table, eating food cooked especially for the occasion, and the meal featuring his mother’s bread—she is a baker. Curtis likes to bake bread from her recipes.  “Good food,” he said, “has that personal touch.”

I asked him if he had a philosophy of food.  He said that a great meal starts with really great fresh ingredients.  Go looking for the perfect local fresh cheese, meats, vegetables–that’s what he wants to have end up, cooked perfectly, at the dinner table.  And remember the cooking timelines of each food element in order to put together your total timetable for cooking the meal. So that the timing of the cooking all works together.

Curtis has said that he loves soaking up local cultures as he travels, so I asked what was his favorite cuisine. He said that French cuisine would have to be at or near the top of his list. That they used their beautiful local produce and products to create brilliant, flavorsome exquisite meals and had been honing their techniques for hundreds of years—to perfection. And that their elegant foods are an integral part of their culture.

Did he have a signature meal? Curtis commented that as one got to know the history of food one learned about certain striking spots – such as Liguria in Italy- the birthplace of pesto.  The name means “pounded.”   Pesto is the pungent, aromatic, brilliant mixture of garlic, basil, and pine nuts pounded together and blended with olive oil and Parmigiano Reggiano.  He said that one could really get a feel for the wonderful taste of squashed mashed young basil leaves.  That it was very important to use young basil leaves.  Then the pesto will be powerful and delicious.

Curtis reluctantly acknowledged that he has become a media darling but insists that it was all by accident.  He said he started with a number of segments, (Oprah, Ellen) during which he worked hard to share his love of food, and that it just caught on. People love food! And they love hearing other people talking well about food!

Who was his favorite talk show host? Curtis adroitly dodged that one, saying that Al Roker comes backstage frequently to sample his wares even when he isn’t on the show, and that he loves Curtis’s cooking.

His advice to a new chef just starting out?  Think of assembling your meal as a Sherlock Holmes or treasure hunt experience.  You start with great fresh local ingredients and then start asking questions about them. And going on a hunt for ingredients which will complement the first element.  Find a great bunch of asparagus—then ask, what goes well with this? A beautiful prosciutto? Then what?   Keep building on those initial blocks and you will have assembled the pieces to a beautiful meal.

When I asked Curtis what he felt was the key to success in his restaurants, he said that he always strove for integrity.  He said that a chef and restaurant owner must love his customers and must care for them and their needs from the minute they walk through the door. The chef’s warm attitude must be consistent throughout their time in the restaurant. Love- that’s the key!

And the perfect note on which to end the conversation.  Curtis had served us the dessert, you might say, and the fine cup of coffee

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The Spirit of Brazil: A Feast of Cachacas at the New York Bar & Wine Show

BY ELENA MANCINI

Among the three hundred odd exhibitors that showcased their distilled goods at this year’s New York Bar and Wine Show at the Jacob Javits Center, Brazil’s national spirit did more than hold a candle to the scores of artisinal bourbons, absinthes and seductive dessert cocktails–including a dangerously delicious vodka-infused Adult Chocolate Milk.

The Brazilian pavilion was vibrantly populated by nine cachaça distributors and manufacturers, Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF), Austin-based coffee importer, Casa Brasil, and representatives of the Brazilian government, which included Counsellor Pedro Terra of the Consulate General of Brazil in New York.


From aged- to variously-flavored specimens, served straight or in seasonal creative caipirinha mixes, cachaças of all stripes were featured at this annual industry event.  It was impossible for me to sample all of the cachaças at the show, but I tasted more than a modest cross-section of the offerings.

From a fantastically refreshing traditional caipirihna, made in accordance with the traditional recipe which consists of cachaça, freshly cut limes, lime juice and sugar cane prepared by Velho Barreiro, a purveyor of cachaça since 1873, to a spicy and surprisingly thirst-quenching gazpacho caipirihna, offered by the Cuca Fresca stand, I was able to discern cachaças’ pure flavor and versatility. Cuca Fresca, which means a “to have cool head,” or “to be relaxed” in Portuguese is a premium artisanal cachaça that is four generations in the making.

Inspired by the taste and superior quality of the cachaças prepared by her family in Brazil, Araci Ferreira, founder and president of Cuca Fresca, decided that she would make it available to all who wished to experience the “spirit” of Brazil and started her company in Pleasantville, New York in 2006. Cuca Fresca has an impressive line of caipirinhas, all organic without additives or artificial coloring. I was enthralled with the entire range. At the show, I learned that a fine, aged cachaça can have the same warming depth and woodsy richness of an aged single malt. I sampled a wonderful specimen of this at 61 and Cuca Fresca. Cuca Fresca’s aged cachaça was 80 proof and aged four years. With summer weather in full sweltering gear, I found myself appreciating the qualities of silver and the unaged, naturally-flavored offerings of Cuca Fresca. Particularly enjoyable was a caipirinha made with Cuca Fresca’s coconut-milk flavoured cachaça. At a considerably lower alcohol per volume percentage of 21, it kept consumption of the entire cocktail a stumble-free pleasure. The smooth mild brews of Casa Brasil of Austin,Texas also provided welcome  caffeine interventions.

Grilled Linguica from Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF)

A big hit at the show–and what also helped to make copious beverage sampling possible– was the seemingly endless supply of tasty, continuously freshly grilled linguiça sausage offered by Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF) of North Bergen, New Jersey. The tender, juicy roundlets of linguiça were moderately seasoned and the plump texture delivered a nice snap to every bite. They fueled many a drink at the show, and not just the cachaça-based ones.


Vocalist Joyce Candido performing at the Brazilian pavilion of the NY Bar & Wine Show

The Brazilian party was complete when vocalist Joyce Candido and her group took the makeshift stage and the pavilion and filled the space with her soulful, charismatic voice and the Bossa Nova sounds produced by her accompanying percussionist and bass player. Candido’s voice made the Brazilian pavilion a focal point at the show.

This year’s Bar & Wine Show was not only a great occasion to sample the many  facets and flavors of cachaça, but also to learn about this spirit’s special history and identity and the hurdles that currently prevent it from being properly recognized in the United States. Cachaça, Brazilian rum, as it is falsely labelled and marketed in the United States, is the third most consumed spirit in the world. While cachaça is a predecessor of rum, it is markedly distinct from rum in its history, culture, taste and composition. It was first produced during Brazil’s colonial period, roughly between 1530-1550, and was largely consumed by slaves and peasants.  Unlike rum, which is made from molasses, a by-product of sugarcane, cachaça is made from raw sugar cane. This major difference is also reflected in the taste of both beverages. Cachaça is notably less sweet than rum and has a lingering mildly-bitter aftertaste.

The reason for this Brazilian misnomer in the United States? According to Counsellor Pedro Terra, the question of the cachaça’s misrepresentation in the United States is one of labelling and not of challenged trade relations. The Brazilian government has been actively engaged and formally vying to have cachaça recognized in the United States under its proper name through diplomatic dialogue with the United States since 2001. According to Terra, “the recognition of cachaça is part of a broad agenda of economic exchanges between the United States and Brazil that are discussed on a yearly basis at the Economic Partnership Dialogue.” Terra pointed to lengthy bureaucratic procedures and processes as the principal cause for delay in cachaça’s proper labelling. Nevertheless, the pending recognition of cachaça in the United States is not only perpetuating a misnomer and false marketing, but is also to the disadvantage of Brazilian farmers and manufacturers, for whom the sales and marketing of this product directly impacts. Commenting on the current state of the recognition process, Terra asserted that several significant mileposts had already been achieved on the road toward proper labelling of the Brazilian national spirit, including the recognition of cachaça by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, and that the process was continuing to move forward.

Leblon Caipirinha Truck in Meatpacking District, NYC

The business community has also offered vigorous parallels to these recognition efforts by increasing cachaça’s visibility and raising awareness about its unique flavor profile. Cachaça distributors have made remarkable strides over the past few years to have cachaça recognized for what it is. Most eminently leading the way in this campaign is Leblon with its moving caipirinha trucks offering free caipirinha samples and copious ads, which champion the slogan to “legalize cachaça.” The clamor is thoroughly justified, and the taste and culture from which cachaça derives clearly generates a demand for more of it.

For those who missed the show or would like to sample a broad range of cachaças, fret not: as Cachaçaria Boteco in Tribeca is a full bar that features cachaças of all sorts and pairs them with Brazilian dishes and tapas.  Cachaçaria also hosts an annual cachaça festival. For more information, go to http://cachacariaboteco.com/.

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The Spirit of Brazil: A Feast of Cachacas at the New York Bar & Wine Show

BY ELENA MANCINI

Among the three hundred odd exhibitors that showcased their distilled goods at this year’s New York Bar and Wine Show at the Jacob Javits Center, Brazil’s national spirit did more than hold a candle to the scores of artisinal bourbons, absinthes and seductive dessert cocktails–including a dangerously delicious vodka-infused Adult Chocolate Milk.

The Brazilian pavilion was vibrantly populated by nine cachaça distributors and manufacturers, Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF), Austin-based coffee importer, Casa Brasil, and representatives of the Brazilian government, which included Counsellor Pedro Terra of the Consulate General of Brazil in New York.


From aged- to variously-flavored specimens, served straight or in seasonal creative caipirinha mixes, cachaças of all stripes were featured at this annual industry event.  It was impossible for me to sample all of the cachaças at the show, but I tasted more than a modest cross-section of the offerings.

From a fantastically refreshing traditional caipirihna, made in accordance with the traditional recipe which consists of cachaça, freshly cut limes, lime juice and sugar cane prepared by Velho Barreiro, a purveyor of cachaça since 1873, to a spicy and surprisingly thirst-quenching gazpacho caipirihna, offered by the Cuca Fresca stand, I was able to discern cachaças’ pure flavor and versatility. Cuca Fresca, which means a “to have cool head,” or “to be relaxed” in Portuguese is a premium artisanal cachaça that is four generations in the making.

Inspired by the taste and superior quality of the cachaças prepared by her family in Brazil, Araci Ferreira, founder and president of Cuca Fresca, decided that she would make it available to all who wished to experience the “spirit” of Brazil and started her company in Pleasantville, New York in 2006. Cuca Fresca has an impressive line of caipirinhas, all organic without additives or artificial coloring. I was enthralled with the entire range. At the show, I learned that a fine, aged cachaça can have the same warming depth and woodsy richness of an aged single malt. I sampled a wonderful specimen of this at 61 and Cuca Fresca. Cuca Fresca’s aged cachaça was 80 proof and aged four years. With summer weather in full sweltering gear, I found myself appreciating the qualities of silver and the unaged, naturally-flavored offerings of Cuca Fresca. Particularly enjoyable was a caipirinha made with Cuca Fresca’s coconut-milk flavoured cachaça. At a considerably lower alcohol per volume percentage of 21, it kept consumption of the entire cocktail a stumble-free pleasure. The smooth mild brews of Casa Brasil of Austin,Texas also provided welcome  caffeine interventions.

Grilled Linguica from Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF)

A big hit at the show–and what also helped to make copious beverage sampling possible– was the seemingly endless supply of tasty, continuously freshly grilled linguiça sausage offered by Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF) of North Bergen, New Jersey. The tender, juicy roundlets of linguiça were moderately seasoned and the plump texture delivered a nice snap to every bite. They fueled many a drink at the show, and not just the cachaça-based ones.


Vocalist Joyce Candido performing at the Brazilian pavilion of the NY Bar & Wine Show

The Brazilian party was complete when vocalist Joyce Candido and her group took the makeshift stage and the pavilion and filled the space with her soulful, charismatic voice and the Bossa Nova sounds produced by her accompanying percussionist and bass player. Candido’s voice made the Brazilian pavilion a focal point at the show.

This year’s Bar & Wine Show was not only a great occasion to sample the many  facets and flavors of cachaça, but also to learn about this spirit’s special history and identity and the hurdles that currently prevent it from being properly recognized in the United States. Cachaça, Brazilian rum, as it is falsely labelled and marketed in the United States, is the third most consumed spirit in the world. While cachaça is a predecessor of rum, it is markedly distinct from rum in its history, culture, taste and composition. It was first produced during Brazil’s colonial period, roughly between 1530-1550, and was largely consumed by slaves and peasants.  Unlike rum, which is made from molasses, a by-product of sugarcane, cachaça is made from raw sugar cane. This major difference is also reflected in the taste of both beverages. Cachaça is notably less sweet than rum and has a lingering mildly-bitter aftertaste.

The reason for this Brazilian misnomer in the United States? According to Counsellor Pedro Terra, the question of the cachaça’s misrepresentation in the United States is one of labelling and not of challenged trade relations. The Brazilian government has been actively engaged and formally vying to have cachaça recognized in the United States under its proper name through diplomatic dialogue with the United States since 2001. According to Terra, “the recognition of cachaça is part of a broad agenda of economic exchanges between the United States and Brazil that are discussed on a yearly basis at the Economic Partnership Dialogue.” Terra pointed to lengthy bureaucratic procedures and processes as the principal cause for delay in cachaça’s proper labelling. Nevertheless, the pending recognition of cachaça in the United States is not only perpetuating a misnomer and false marketing, but is also to the disadvantage of Brazilian farmers and manufacturers, for whom the sales and marketing of this product directly impacts. Commenting on the current state of the recognition process, Terra asserted that several significant mileposts had already been achieved on the road toward proper labelling of the Brazilian national spirit, including the recognition of cachaça by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, and that the process was continuing to move forward.

Leblon Caipirinha Truck in Meatpacking District, NYC

The business community has also offered vigorous parallels to these recognition efforts by increasing cachaça’s visibility and raising awareness about its unique flavor profile. Cachaça distributors have made remarkable strides over the past few years to have cachaça recognized for what it is. Most eminently leading the way in this campaign is Leblon with its moving caipirinha trucks offering free caipirinha samples and copious ads, which champion the slogan to “legalize cachaça.” The clamor is thoroughly justified, and the taste and culture from which cachaça derives clearly generates a demand for more of it.

For those who missed the show or would like to sample a broad range of cachaças, fret not: as Cachaçaria Boteco in Tribeca is a full bar that features cachaças of all sorts and pairs them with Brazilian dishes and tapas.  Cachaçaria also hosts an annual cachaça festival. For more information, go to http://cachacariaboteco.com/.

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Ice Cream Truck Provides Treats with Personality – Review of Big Gay Ice Cream Truck

BY BETH KAISERMAN

The Big Gay Ice Cream Truck – various locations in Manhattan

It took a month longer than usual, but one summer trend has finally caught up with me. Every time I see an ice cream truck in Manhattan, I have to stop. But this year, it’s for a different reason. When I see a friendly white truck, there’s one thing I’m looking for: a rainbow cone painted on the side. The Big Gay Ice Cream Truck is a New York City gem. It began in 2009, serving up cones with unique toppings like pumpkin butter, elderflower syrup, and toasted coconut with curry powder.

Yesterday my vanilla cone covered in wasabi pea dust caught the eye of jealous on-lookers in Union Square. People “ooh’d,” “ahh’d,” and asked questions as I indulged. The green-dusted ice cream cone looks like a Christmas tree and offers a serious crunch. (It really is crunchy. Be careful if you have weak teeth!) Its flavor is sweet and creamy with some spice. As soon as it gets too hot, you have the ice cream to balance it out. I decided to take it up one notch by having my cone lined with spicy peanut butter, one of the truck’s daily specials. All that jazz for just $4? This truck is worth seeking out for its awesome choices and the friendly banter of the owner, Doug. It’s just like being a kid again, adult-style. The entire experience will make your day.

You can find a schedule on the truck’s web site, or follow it on Twitter.

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Big Gay Ice Cream Truck on Urbanspoon

 

Coolhaus churns out sweet and savory sensations: Review of Coolhaus Ice Cream Truck

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Coolhaus Truck Locations in NYC, the Hamptons, Austin and Los Angeles.

Coolhaus Gourmet Ice Cream Sandwich - Photo by Beth Kaiserman

Coolhaus is a gourmet ice cream truck offering delicious fresh-baked cookies with some interesting ice cream inside — not to mention an edible, calorie-free wrapper.

The magic started in Los Angeles with a Ginger cookie and wasabi ice cream — inspired by a meal of sushi. Roaming the streets of L.A., Austin and now New York City, Coolhaus utilizes natural and local ingredients, including hormone-free, sustainably produced dairy.

I caught up with the truck Sunday at Prospect Park’s Food Truck Rally. Though eager for the classic vanilla ice cream, I decided to take a leap of faith — with Brown Butter and Candied Bacon on a fresh chocolate chip cookie. This combo is insane: sweet, slightly salty, and smoky. It has everything you could possibly want out of life, all in one messy and wonderful little package.

It gets cooler. The sandwiches are influenced by architecture and architectural movements. Check out the menu and diagram here.

I love that we have the chance to experience an awesome brainchild of L.A. via an on-the-go truck. Stay rolling with us this summer for more food truck updates, and follow Coolhaus at http://twitter.com/#!/CoolhausNY.

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Everything you loved about college and more – Review of Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club

BY STEPHANIE AMY COLLAZO

Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club
89 South St.
South Street Seaport – New York, NY
(212) 896-4600
Beekmanbeergarden.com

View of the Brooklyn Bridge from the outdoor seating area. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

A post-grads dream, the Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club has everything you loved about college and more.  There is foosball, pool, ping-pong, great food, a light up lounge area and of course beer.

Entering from the street side of Pier 17 the first thing you see is the large black Beekman Beer Garden sign.  Making a left at the sign you are then face to face with the fun ping-pong and foosball tables and a tented seating area with a bar and a food trailer to your right.

Before finding seats we quickly surveyed the venue walking towards the back area, which featured white couches in what I have come to call the adult sandbox.

Glowing lounge area at the Beekman Beer Garden and Beach Club. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Later in the night we learned that these couches lit up, and the view of the Brooklyn Bridge was even more beautiful than ever.

Drink of the night “Beach Ball.” Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Making our way back into the tent one of the waitresses offered us the drink of the night, which was called a Beach Ball.  When asking what was in the peach colored concoction the waitress said she was unsure but it was a mixture of rums.  The drink was very sweet, it tasted like it was made of peach schnapps and Malibu rum.

People surrounding the server with the burgers. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The wait staff was also passing around a number of hors d’oeuvres, which for the most part were delicious, but none went over as well as the burgers.  As soon as the wait staff would walk away from the kitchen area the crowd would mob them before they could make it three feet from the pick up table.

Oyster with salsa fresca. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

The first of many hors d’oeuvres we sampled were oysters on the half shell with a salsa fresca, which are regularly priced at six for $12 or 12 for $20.  The oyster tasted very fresh and the salsa fresca made for a great alternative to the usual cocktail sauce and lemon combo.

Next we had the coconut shrimp with orange marmalade.  This had to be some of the best coconut shrimp I’ve had at a bar to date, it’s only competition being the coconut shrimp from the lazy boy saloon in White Plains.  The batter was nicely browned and had a wonderful crunch.  Sadly the coconut shrimp has not yet made it on the menu but I am hoping it will in the near future.

Piece of a Chicken Quesadilla. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo

The chicken quesadilla ($8) fell a little short; it was simply grilled chicken and cheese in a tortilla.  This was something I felt I could make at home; it didn’t really stand out to me in comparison with the other hors d’oeuvres.

Bratwurst on a Pretzel Bun. Photo By Stephanie Amy Collazo.

Last but certainly not least was the bratwurst served on a pretzel bun ($6).  This was served with some deli mustard and paired nicely with my Ommegang Witte ale. The beer was a pale ale similar to a Belgian-white and went well with all of the food.  The after taste of the beer reminded me of the taste left in your mouth after smoking a djarum black clove cigarette, which may be seen as an odd comparison to some but those who have smoked the brand before will know exactly what I mean.

The night finished off with my new friends and myself sipping Malibu Bay Breezes barefoot in the adult sandbox, discussing how we soon planned to return to the Beekman Beer Garden Beach Club.

There are plans for the venue to host free indie rock concerts, as well as a few ticketed events, throughout the summer making the Beekman Beer Garden a definite hot spot this summer.

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Where the only way to say goodbye is arrivederci: Review of Pizza Roma

ELENA MANCINI

259 Bleecker Street (btwn. Cornelia St. & Morton St.)
West Village
212-924-1970 / pizza-roma.it

Pizza Roma - paying homage to its previous occupant, historic Zito's Bakery

New York City has been riding a gourmet pizza wave for a while now.  The popularity stock on artisinal pizza peaked  just as the housing bubble popped and while the housing market continues to straddle signs of hopefulness and teetering on the edge of kaboom, the pizza moment is perpetuated with vigor and in colorful and creative new guises.

Until recently, the main purveyors of artisinal pizza in New York have been pizzaioli, certified by Neapolitan pizza guilds. Keste‘, Motorino, Pizza Totale an pizza fresca are but a handful of places that boast this honorable gastronomic distinction and a slamming Pizza Margherita D.O.C. to boot. Until now, the only competition vying for the spotlight along with the Neapolitans had been coming from a new crop of plucky New York pizzaioli, showcasing New York style pizza as evidenced by popular spots like Paulie Gees and Torrisi’s. It’s a case of apples and pomegranates, but the latter are worthy contenders, just this same.

Pizza Margherita

Pizza Margherita

Pizza Roma’s authentic Roman-style “pizza al taglio” (pizza that is cut on request) brings an exciting alternative to the pizzascape. By the look of things alone, pizza al taglio resembles a home-style grandma square. Standard individual-sized squares are cut upon request with a sure-handed sliding motion of a pair of shears. At Pizza Roma, pizza is served at the counter, for those on the go, or in its charming and rustic dining room  tastefully adorned with paintings of brightly-hued Fiats by Pop artist, Monica Casali. When weather permits, their newly opened outdoor garden will also provide a pleasing setting for a relaxing meal. While this place offers a hip, laid-back, authentically Roman experience, replete with young, hip, fresh-off-the-boat sounding servers and a stand-up wine list. These pleasant perks aside accentuate the real attraction here which is  a savory, pizza made from high-quality ingredients at moderate-for-Manhattan-pricing  (starting at $13 for a medium-size). Individual dinner pizzas come in two sizes, medium or large-sized rectangles, served on wooden cutting boards. But it isn’t the shape or the look of the pizza, that makes it  unlike anything else that can be currently had in New York. It’s how it’s the science of how it’s made that makes the difference. Pizza Roma’s dough has a 96 hour fermentation period, that’s right: 4 day-aged dough. The result is that it makes for a much lighter, less yeastier-tasting dough and a strikingly more digestible slice of pizza. I can testify to this when during a recent weekend evening, after waiting 30 minutes for a table, I had a 10pm pizza Margherita followed by a walk and no trouble getting to sleep, which is typically an issue for me after dining late, especially if it’s pizza. The Margherita had the perfect texture and a good tomato to mozzarella ratio. The sauce was sweet, tasted natural and had a pleasing, mild tang. The mozzarella was tasty, mildly fragrant and properly melted without being overly runny. The crust was light and crisp, with moderate chewiness and was subtle blisters and chars which gave it an enjoyable smoky flavor.

 

Pizza Tartufina - Pizza with truffles and cheese

Pizza Tartufina - Pizza with truffles and cheese

My dining companion ordered the Pizza Tartufina. This was topped with large slices of glistening truffles and meaty oyster mushrooms. A feast of flavors on a well-executed crust!

Crostata alle Fragole - Strawberry Tart

Crostata di Fragole - Strawberry Tart

If the stomach can withstand it, order a slice of the crostata ($5) for dessert.  This light and crusty, fruit-preserve-topped tart  will further boost the experience of Italian home-style pleasures.

For appetizer, go for the charcuterie or a caprese. Many of the salads are made with iceberg lettuce. For smaller appetites, skip the foccaccia crisps and go straight for a rectangle of stuffed pizza. The crimes of double-carbing aside, the potato stuffed pizza is a delectable expenditure of calories.


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Italy’s home away from home – Review of Eataly

BY STEPHANIE HARRISON

200 5th Avenue :: Flatiron District
212-229-2560 :: http://eatalyny.com

Fresh vegetables from Eataly

Pasta is not the only dish offer in this Italian market and eatery. Eataly encapsulates a range of meat, fish, cheese, pizza, pasta, gelato, pastries, coffee, and wine and beer.  The place from the outside looks a bit like a corner shop café, but once you step foot inside this palace, the options are endless.  For those of you who enjoy fresh, made-to-order, authentic Italian flavors, this is your haven.

You have an option of Manzo – a more formal dining experience, or La Piazza – the standing table in the center of Eataly.  If you dare to fight for your spot, La Piazza is the spot you want – it’s well worth the wait, and you’re right in the action of the food, fun, and flavors.  The process of La Piazza is a bit confusing; the hustle and bustle of this area forces you to quickly decide what to order, and focus on your fast-paced surroundings.  Have no fear, you can’t go wrong with the Salumi and Formaggi – an assortment of the best cheese and salumi of Eataly.  Normally, I don’t eat much meat or cheese, but this is too good to pass up.  When I spy with my own little eye, the thinly cut slices of meat at the deli, and the blocks of fresh cheese, it’s impossible to not indulge.  A combination of a slim slice of prosciutto cotto mixed with a melt in your mouth mozzarella is to die for.  Share this plate with someone else so that you can try other delectable dishes as well.

Next came the Ostriche (daily selection of oysters).  Some prefer the small, skinny kind, but these were the medium-sized, meaty oysters that slurp right into your mouth.  Add a little vinegar, hot sauce, lemon juice, and freshly grounded horseradish and they’re slurp ready.

If you’re in a hurry, go ahead and pick up these items to go.  Better yet, peruse through the aisles of the market, you can cook up your own authentic Ea-talian entrees.

 

From produce to meats, to fish, to jams, to pasta, Eataly houses a magnificent selection of items for Italian cooking.

Everything is organized beautifully, and most importantly, they are extremely clean.  For you neat-freaks out there, Eataly is the place for you to stock up your pantry.

Truffles of Eataly

 

Photo by Stephanie Harrison

You can even try a $36 miniature sized bottle of balsamic.

Photo by Stephanie Harrison

Or get your hands on these jams, jellies, and sauces.

Next time you’re in the neighborhood, drop by Eataly for some gelato or pastries.  Beware of the line that leads out the door!

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