BY ELENA MANCINI
Among the three hundred odd exhibitors that showcased their distilled goods at this year’s New York Bar and Wine Show at the Jacob Javits Center, Brazil’s national spirit did more than hold a candle to the scores of artisinal bourbons, absinthes and seductive dessert cocktails–including a dangerously delicious vodka-infused Adult Chocolate Milk.
The Brazilian pavilion was vibrantly populated by nine cachaça distributors and manufacturers, Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF), Austin-based coffee importer, Casa Brasil, and representatives of the Brazilian government, which included Counsellor Pedro Terra of the Consulate General of Brazil in New York.
From aged- to variously-flavored specimens, served straight or in seasonal creative caipirinha mixes, cachaças of all stripes were featured at this annual industry event. It was impossible for me to sample all of the cachaças at the show, but I tasted more than a modest cross-section of the offerings.
From a fantastically refreshing traditional caipirihna, made in accordance with the traditional recipe which consists of cachaça, freshly cut limes, lime juice and sugar cane prepared by Velho Barreiro, a purveyor of cachaça since 1873, to a spicy and surprisingly thirst-quenching gazpacho caipirihna, offered by the Cuca Fresca stand, I was able to discern cachaças’ pure flavor and versatility. Cuca Fresca, which means a “to have cool head,” or “to be relaxed” in Portuguese is a premium artisanal cachaça that is four generations in the making.
Inspired by the taste and superior quality of the cachaças prepared by her family in Brazil, Araci Ferreira, founder and president of Cuca Fresca, decided that she would make it available to all who wished to experience the “spirit” of Brazil and started her company in Pleasantville, New York in 2006. Cuca Fresca has an impressive line of caipirinhas, all organic without additives or artificial coloring. I was enthralled with the entire range. At the show, I learned that a fine, aged cachaça can have the same warming depth and woodsy richness of an aged single malt. I sampled a wonderful specimen of this at 61 and Cuca Fresca. Cuca Fresca’s aged cachaça was 80 proof and aged four years. With summer weather in full sweltering gear, I found myself appreciating the qualities of silver and the unaged, naturally-flavored offerings of Cuca Fresca. Particularly enjoyable was a caipirinha made with Cuca Fresca’s coconut-milk flavoured cachaça. At a considerably lower alcohol per volume percentage of 21, it kept consumption of the entire cocktail a stumble-free pleasure. The smooth mild brews of Casa Brasil of Austin,Texas also provided welcome caffeine interventions.
Grilled Linguica from Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF)
A big hit at the show–and what also helped to make copious beverage sampling possible– was the seemingly endless supply of tasty, continuously freshly grilled linguiça sausage offered by Brazilian Specialty Foods (BSF) of North Bergen, New Jersey. The tender, juicy roundlets of linguiça were moderately seasoned and the plump texture delivered a nice snap to every bite. They fueled many a drink at the show, and not just the cachaça-based ones.
Vocalist Joyce Candido performing at the Brazilian pavilion of the NY Bar & Wine Show
The Brazilian party was complete when vocalist Joyce Candido and her group took the makeshift stage and the pavilion and filled the space with her soulful, charismatic voice and the Bossa Nova sounds produced by her accompanying percussionist and bass player. Candido’s voice made the Brazilian pavilion a focal point at the show.
This year’s Bar & Wine Show was not only a great occasion to sample the many facets and flavors of cachaça, but also to learn about this spirit’s special history and identity and the hurdles that currently prevent it from being properly recognized in the United States. Cachaça, Brazilian rum, as it is falsely labelled and marketed in the United States, is the third most consumed spirit in the world. While cachaça is a predecessor of rum, it is markedly distinct from rum in its history, culture, taste and composition. It was first produced during Brazil’s colonial period, roughly between 1530-1550, and was largely consumed by slaves and peasants. Unlike rum, which is made from molasses, a by-product of sugarcane, cachaça is made from raw sugar cane. This major difference is also reflected in the taste of both beverages. Cachaça is notably less sweet than rum and has a lingering mildly-bitter aftertaste.
The reason for this Brazilian misnomer in the United States? According to Counsellor Pedro Terra, the question of the cachaça’s misrepresentation in the United States is one of labelling and not of challenged trade relations. The Brazilian government has been actively engaged and formally vying to have cachaça recognized in the United States under its proper name through diplomatic dialogue with the United States since 2001. According to Terra, “the recognition of cachaça is part of a broad agenda of economic exchanges between the United States and Brazil that are discussed on a yearly basis at the Economic Partnership Dialogue.” Terra pointed to lengthy bureaucratic procedures and processes as the principal cause for delay in cachaça’s proper labelling. Nevertheless, the pending recognition of cachaça in the United States is not only perpetuating a misnomer and false marketing, but is also to the disadvantage of Brazilian farmers and manufacturers, for whom the sales and marketing of this product directly impacts. Commenting on the current state of the recognition process, Terra asserted that several significant mileposts had already been achieved on the road toward proper labelling of the Brazilian national spirit, including the recognition of cachaça by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, and that the process was continuing to move forward.
Leblon Caipirinha Truck in Meatpacking District, NYC
The business community has also offered vigorous parallels to these recognition efforts by increasing cachaça’s visibility and raising awareness about its unique flavor profile. Cachaça distributors have made remarkable strides over the past few years to have cachaça recognized for what it is. Most eminently leading the way in this campaign is Leblon with its moving caipirinha trucks offering free caipirinha samples and copious ads, which champion the slogan to “legalize cachaça.” The clamor is thoroughly justified, and the taste and culture from which cachaça derives clearly generates a demand for more of it.
For those who missed the show or would like to sample a broad range of cachaças, fret not: as Cachaçaria Boteco in Tribeca is a full bar that features cachaças of all sorts and pairs them with Brazilian dishes and tapas. Cachaçaria also hosts an annual cachaça festival. For more information, go to http://cachacariaboteco.com/.
