Farm-to-Table, Inspired and Whimsical Chinese Cuisine – A Review of RedFarm

BY BECKA WOOLF

RedFarm
529 Hudson St
(between 10th St & Charles St)
Manhattan, NY 10014
Neighborhood: West Village

Do you like faces on your food? Perhaps some googly eyes on your shrimp dumplings? RedFarm does.

Opened by former Chinatown Brasserie chef and dim sum extraordinaire Joe Ng and Chinese restaurant expert Ed Schoenfeld, RedFarm has been the chatter of the West Village since its opening at the beginning of September, and rightfully so. Featuring communal tables and Ina Garten-esque décor, the menu features Greenmarket-inspired, innovative Chinese dim sum. The atmosphere is loud, the food imaginative and inspired. Think Joe’s Shanghai and Blue Hill’s restaurant love child.

RedFarm, NYC

RedFarm puts forth many winning dishes. The crispy spicy beef is the standout. Sweet and spicy at its best, the beef is served alongside roasted hot chiles and crunchy lotus root chips. The Kumamoto oysters with Meyer lemonyuzu ice are incredibly fresh and satisfying, an oyster slushie of sorts. The Pac Man shrimp dumplings are as whimsical as they are delicious. As the waitress put the plate down in front of us, she laid out the scene: a piece of crispy fried, Pac Man-shaped sweet potato, resting on a bed of non-traditional but delicious guacamole, is chasing the four “surprised” shrimp dumplings  (there is something different in every dumpling to accompany the shrimp, hence the “surprise”). The crispy duck and crab dumplings also have a unique presentation – the dumplings are modeled to look like sting rays, complete with eyes, and they sit on the edge of a bowl of sweet, rich curry sauce for dipping. Also delicious and worth ordering are the Kowloon filet mignon tarts, a one-bite tart topped with a mouthwatering, perfectly cooked piece of beef.

Pac Man shrimp dumplings at RedFarm

I also want to speak briefly to the wonder and pure genius of the Katz’s pastrami egg rolls. Yes, you read this right, the pastrami is straight from the one and only Manhattan pastrami institution Katz’s Deli. As a Jewish girl from the east coast, you better believe I have an appreciation for good pastrami, and these just blew me away. They are served with a tangy, creamy mustard dipping sauce. Naturally!

Not everything at RedFarm is a home run, however. The first time I dined there, I had the spicy Korean rice cake with Chinese sausage and shrimp, and adored the dish. My second time there, I noticed it was no longer on the menu and asked the waiter why. He said he “ate it all” (with no real answer), and suggested the wide rice noodles with shredded roast duck instead. They were disappointing –bland, oily and one-dimensional. They can do better. I just know it.

Kowloon filet mignon tart at Red Farm

RedFarm is certainly not cheap, most dishes in the 8-15 dollar range, which adds up quickly given the majority of the dishes are only a few bites. They don’t take reservations so expect to wait, the best option being getting a drink at Bayard’s Ale House next door. And never fear, you will get a text when your table is ready. As Ina would say, “How easy is that?”

Now, if only those spicy Korean rice cakes would make their way back onto the menu. Pretty please, Chef Ng?

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TAO Restaurant turns 10!

BY CLAIRE McCURDY

42 East 58th Street
Midtown East
taorestaurant.com/

Master Chef, John Villa. <br>Photo Credit: behindtheburner.com

Master Chef, John Villa. Photo Credit: behindtheburner.com

TAO Restaurant (New York) has just celebrated its 10th Year Anniversary on Saturday 10/16, /10, a milestone for a New York landmark which is also the highest grossing restaurant in the nation.

The Tao is a concept found in Taoism, Confucianism, and more generally in ancient Chinese philosophy and East Asian religions. While the word itself translates as ‘way’, ‘path’, or ‘route’, it is often used philosophically to signify the fundamental or true nature of the world.  One might even say: the heart of the world.

Chef John Villa says that TAO Restaurant is essentially at his heart— his pride and joy. –When asked to define TAO’s menu – whether it could be described as Asian fusion, Villa emphatically said that it could not.  He presents classical Japanese and Chinese dishes – he maintains the authentic quality of each cuisine. Villa serves a fine Peking duck exactly the way it would be served in Beijing. Chinese and Japanese guests have remarked on the quality and authenticity of the offerings.  In other words, Asians are just as pleased and impressed with his classic Asian food as are all other diners.

We asked “what really drives you, Chef John?” And he said that it is the creation of top quality food in high volume so that each dish is presented exactly the same, with exactly the same degree of quality, when TAO’s doors open at noon as when they close at midnight.  In other words, no matter how many times a single dish is replicated for hundreds of diners, each version of that dish is the same.  Villa cautions that the restaurant is not a “factory” but a place which serves consistently beautiful dishes at the peak of their perfection.

The story of Villa’s professional background emphases his early love of fine food, his early and youthful apprenticeship, the speed of his rise, the quickness of his ability to absorb and reproduce a wide array of new and classic foods, and, quite simply, his ability to please his eclectic and sophisticated diners.

After training at the age of 19 at the Culinary Institute of America and a brief apprenticeship at le Cirque and Tropical, Villa really came into his own at the Judson Grill. Within months, at the tender age of 24, Villa had earned a title as Executive Chef and two stars from the New York Times, making him a rising star in the culinary firmament.   Villa’s wildly successful reinvention of the Boathouse in Central Park earned him the Times sobriquet “a prodigy” and another two stars from the New York Times. For Villa’s opening of his own Portuguese inspired restaurant, Pico,  he received another coveted star for a total of three stars from the Times, and a stunning accolade: “’John Villa has created his own private Portugal, a fantasy wrapped in a shimmering haze.’”

But it is at TAO that Chef John Villa has become the mastermind behind one of the largest Pan-Asian kitchens in the world.  He is truly an extraordinary, internationally acclaimed master chef.

Coda: Tao features a unique and striking feature– a huge statue of the Buddha.. The Buddha was brought in through the roof with a giant crane before the restaurant opened in 2000.  Some statistics:  Height: 16 ft tall, Weight: 4,000 pounds,  Material: Wood;  Origin: Designed by Thomas Shoos; carved in Thailand.

We asked, “Why did Chef John decide to import the giant Buddha into the restaurant?”  Villa said .  “The effect on diners is wonderful. The Buddha creates an incredible cultural and possibly spiritual ambience. “   Villa says it always is a pleasure to be there—“everybody loves TAO.”

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A pig lover’s paradise – Review of Pig Heaven

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Pig Heaven
1540 2nd Avenue
Upper East Side

212-744-4887/pigheaven.biz

Pig collection inside Pig Heaven - Photo courtesy of uppereast.com

Pig collection inside Pig Heaven - Photo courtesy of uppereast.com

My boyfriend had been bugging me to go to Pig Heaven with him for about a month.  I had honestly never heard of the place, even though I am now aware of the accolades it has received from the Travel Channel and New York Magazine.

We traveled up to the slightly out of the way location on the Upper East Side and were immediately greeted by the owner and hostess Nancy Lee.  She was dressed in a funky outfit consisting of leopard print and lame’, a prefect match to her equally as kitschy restaurant that was half filled to the brim with pig paraphernalia complete with piglet-pink walls and half reminiscent of a 1970’s backyard tiki barbecue.

Pork Ribs at Pig Heaven - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

Pork Ribs at Pig Heaven - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

We sat down at our choice of any table in the restaurant and were greeted by our absolutely delightful waiter, who seemed more like a caricature of a person than real flesh and blood.  It being our first time dinning at Pig Heaven, he was more than willing with helping to make our decision.  Per our new friends recommendation, we ordered the fried meat dumplings ($7.50) to start and a large order of Pig Heaven’s famous pork ribs ($17.50) to share.


The ribs came out, piping hot, in 5 minutes.  There was no waiting for this meal to be cooked.  The dumplings came out shortly thereafter, crispy on the outside and steaming on the inside.  While they were definitely a step up from your run-of-the-mill fried Chinese dumplings, I was expecting more from a place so well known and a dish so highly recommended.  Next time I will save my dumpling outing for a hole in the wall in Chinatown.

The ribs however, were cooked to fall-off-the-bone perfection with a sticky sauce which was neither too sweet nor too savory.  Although a bit on the fatty side, the ribs had a wonderful crust on top that made the gooey sauce that much more of a contrast.

All in all, I’m glad that my boyfriend insisted we stop by Pig Heaven for a meat-heavy dinner.  The atmosphere, pleasant; the food, quite delicious and my stomach, very full.

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A pig lover's paradise – Review of Pig Heaven

BY CAROLYN ONOFREY

Pig Heaven
1540 2nd Avenue
Upper East Side

212-744-4887/pigheaven.biz

Pig collection inside Pig Heaven - Photo courtesy of uppereast.com

Pig collection inside Pig Heaven - Photo courtesy of uppereast.com

My boyfriend had been bugging me to go to Pig Heaven with him for about a month.  I had honestly never heard of the place, even though I am now aware of the accolades it has received from the Travel Channel and New York Magazine.

We traveled up to the slightly out of the way location on the Upper East Side and were immediately greeted by the owner and hostess Nancy Lee.  She was dressed in a funky outfit consisting of leopard print and lame’, a prefect match to her equally as kitschy restaurant that was half filled to the brim with pig paraphernalia complete with piglet-pink walls and half reminiscent of a 1970’s backyard tiki barbecue.

Pork Ribs at Pig Heaven - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

Pork Ribs at Pig Heaven - Photo by Carolyn Onofrey

We sat down at our choice of any table in the restaurant and were greeted by our absolutely delightful waiter, who seemed more like a caricature of a person than real flesh and blood.  It being our first time dinning at Pig Heaven, he was more than willing with helping to make our decision.  Per our new friends recommendation, we ordered the fried meat dumplings ($7.50) to start and a large order of Pig Heaven’s famous pork ribs ($17.50) to share.


The ribs came out, piping hot, in 5 minutes.  There was no waiting for this meal to be cooked.  The dumplings came out shortly thereafter, crispy on the outside and steaming on the inside.  While they were definitely a step up from your run-of-the-mill fried Chinese dumplings, I was expecting more from a place so well known and a dish so highly recommended.  Next time I will save my dumpling outing for a hole in the wall in Chinatown.

The ribs however, were cooked to fall-off-the-bone perfection with a sticky sauce which was neither too sweet nor too savory.  Although a bit on the fatty side, the ribs had a wonderful crust on top that made the gooey sauce that much more of a contrast.

All in all, I’m glad that my boyfriend insisted we stop by Pig Heaven for a meat-heavy dinner.  The atmosphere, pleasant; the food, quite delicious and my stomach, very full.

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Pig Heaven on Urbanspoon