A dose of kicked-up comfort food: A Review of Prune

BY BETH KAISERMAN

Prune
54 E. 1
st St.
East Village
(212) 677-6221/
prunerestaurant.com

After hearing about the epic crowds that assemble for brunch at Prune and drooling over its menu while planning a dinner there, I headed to the East Village to feast on something edgy and inspiring.

Scottish salmon

Scottish salmon

Prune’s menu was completely different from what I had read on New York Magazine’s Web site, but it had the same interesting vibe that drew me in. I chose the Scottish salmon with creamy lemon rice, scallions and peas. It was a light and lovely lunch; the salmon was like a pillow with just the right touch of firmness. It was plated skin-side up, which I haven’t seen before; normally the pink flesh is what restaurants like to showcase. It was well-seasoned with visible flecks of pepper, but the salmon flavor shined through. With skin so delicious and crispy, I didn’t mind that being the first part I saw.

Zucchini with

Zucchini with chili flakes

I also ordered the disappointing fried zucchini with chili flakes, which was soaked in oil, garlic slices and mint (though it tasted like basil to me.) It was flash-fried, not deep-fried in batter like at an Italian restaurant. When it came out with the salmon, it was at room temperature but still edible, so I went for it. The flavors were too overpowering with the salmon though, so I mostly focused on the entrée. I told the waitress it should’ve been hotter, and she was nice enough to take it off of the bill.

Prune is small and simple; it has a tiny bar with only four seats, and you can see the kitchen from the dining area. It’s obvious why you have to arrive super early for brunch. Prune would be a great place for sharing a bunch of dishes, and I definitely want to check out their brunch soon.

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