105 Thompson St., Soho 212-925-1040
It’s widely known that the understatement is not an American forte, and it’s certainly not New York’s strong suit either. However, understatement is was what had to be at play when the owners of Snack named their full menu restaurant. Granted the size of this place has probably a tenth of the squarefootage of an East Hampton mansion walk-in closet, but unlike the walk-in, Snack will feed you and feed you deliciously and abundantly at that. The cuisine encompasses many traditional Greek classics, including pastitsio, vegetarian mousaka and lamb rib. On my most recent visit I savored an order of the stuffed tomato and pepper. This generous platter came with the choice of a cold meze or a side of Greek salad. I opted for a meze of taramosalata. No matter how often I have this fish roe salad, and that’s pretty much several times a week as I keep a container of it in my refrigerator, I always find it difficult to resist. The helpings of the taramosalata were lavishly heaped onto the platter garnished with minced red onion and two slices of stirato bread, striped with fresh olive oil. The taramosalata was light and did not leave heavy, vinegary aftertaste, but I barely able to get through a quarter of it since it was competing with the tomato and pepper. Both were stuffed with brown rice, mint, dill and a hint of cumin and served perfectly hot. This dish was not only hearty but tasty and caused me to eat well beyond my saturation point, and just to be clear: that is much to Snack’s credit not fault.
My lunch companion had the spinach pie and chose tzatziki for her meze. It was much to her liking and returns to Snack on a regular basis for their boureki. I sampled it and immediately noted the delicate, fresh filling, the perfect crust and the just-right temperature at which it was served. Other items that I have tried and would enthusiastically recommend include the dolmadakia and the roasted chicken, tomatoes and roasted red onions w/ spicy mint lemonaise, arugula and fresh mint on stirato bread. I’m usually too stuffed when I’m done eating here for dessert, but there is a tempting array of selections, including baklava and melomakarona. All in all, this is a great place to sate a hearty appetite with healthy, savory Greek eats without throwing your budget to the wind. Lunch items are below $12. Dinner items are below the $20 range. The only downside is that scoring a table here often requires not being in a hurry.