Earlier this week, Chef Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin announced that he would be substituting the white truffle for the considerably less expensive black. Tasting Table reported that Ripert attributed this shift as a tempered a response to the economic times, “people want small luxuries during stressful times…and truffles are a touch of luxury to be savored.” A look at the difference in pricing will show us that Ripert is not just paying Marie Antoinette-type lip service to the crisis. White truffle can cost up to $2,700 a pound. Whereas black truffle will peak at approximately $400 a pound.

Eric Ripert - taken from Tasting Table

For those who haven’t been following restaurant news this week, it’s been a very tough week for restauranteurs. Consumer slowdown has manifested a marked ripple effect on the hospitality business resulting in a wave of shuttering announcements this week. Fleur de Sel, Miracle Grill and Lunetta of Flatiron are among a dozen restaurants that have released the news of impending closings this week.

In these times of constant reminder that we are on the brink of a cataclysm whose depths remain unknown, the idea of savoring small luxuries is a soothing and best followed with a realistic sense of scale.