227 East 67th St.
New York, NY 10065
212-794-4950 / www.labsinthe.com
It’s the glamor of turn-of-the century Paris in all of its sumptuous glory at Jean-Michel Bergougnoux’s l’Absinthe. However, unlike many establishments that aspire to reprise upon this theme and wind up delivering tired, static, campy-cliched gimmicks, there’s a soulful engine of passion behind Bergougnoux’s complex and multi-layered interpretations of this vibrantly sexy historical epoch. From featuring the beverage that bears the restaurant’s name at its bar to the gorgeous Art Nouveau posters, to the liberty style mirrors on the wall to masterfully-executed haute cuisine and friendly, top-notch service, l’Absinthe offers a sensuous, full-bodied experience in Old World elegance.
The sea scallop risotto that my dining companion ordered was also a triumph. The scallops were lightly crusted and textured silky smooth on the inside. The rice was creamy but separate and infused with lemon. The lemon provided a joyful olfactory sensation. And with every course the eyes, as much as the palate were richly rewarded with all of Mr.Bergougnoux’s inspired presentations.