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l’Absinthe Brasserie Restaurant

December 17, 2008 By 2 Comments

227 East 67th St.
New York, NY 10065
212-794-4950 / www.labsinthe.com

It’s the glamor of turn-of-the century Paris in all of its sumptuous glory at Jean-Michel Bergougnoux’s l’Absinthe. However, unlike many establishments that aspire to reprise upon this theme and wind up delivering tired, static, campy-cliched gimmicks, there’s a soulful engine of passion behind Bergougnoux’s complex and multi-layered interpretations of this vibrantly sexy historical epoch. From featuring the beverage that bears the restaurant’s name at its bar to the gorgeous Art Nouveau posters, to the liberty style mirrors on the wall to masterfully-executed haute cuisine and friendly, top-notch service, l’Absinthe offers a sensuous, full-bodied experience in Old World elegance.

l'Absinthe Captures the Spirit of Art Nouveau

The three course meal that my guest and I enjoyed there was distinctively fabulous and the service beyond reproach.
I could not resist ordering the brasserie classic of coq au vin. It was thickly coated and braised to perfection in a tantalizing red wine reduction, the memory of which causes my tongue to vibrate with glee and instant anticipation. It was accompanied by a terrine of creamy, scallion mashed potatoes.

Coq au Vin

The sea scallop risotto that my dining companion ordered was also a triumph. The scallops were lightly crusted and textured silky smooth on the inside. The rice was creamy but separate and infused with lemon. The lemon provided a joyful olfactory sensation. And with every course the eyes, as much as the palate were richly rewarded with all of Mr.Bergougnoux’s inspired presentations.

The fine tarte aux pommes was as you might expect…divine, and like a velvet bow on a wonderful evening.
Tarte aux Pommes

Tarte aux Pommes

While the prices at l’Absinthe will seem prodigious, particularly in the current economy, they are not in discord with the establishment’s quality and style. Whether you are a discerning Francophile or simply seeking an exalting experience in cuisine and ambiance, l’Absinthe is a tres bon destination.


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Comments

  1. Michael Thompson says:
    December 22, 2008 at 11:38 pm

    Magnificent! This is one of the the Upper East Side’s true treasures.

  2. steel rice cooker says:
    October 26, 2009 at 10:46 pm

    Commenting usually isnt my thing, but ive spent an hour on the site, so thanks for the info

    Greetings from Tim. :)

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