Telepan
Upper West Side - 72 W. 69 St, btwn. Central Park West and Columbus Avenue
212-580-4300; telepan-ny.com
New Yorkers are a cynical lot, or at least that’s how the cliche’ goes. But, how could it be otherwise in a place where even the mold in your rusting pipes is turned into an inflated commodity for which you can be made to overpay? We all know these embarassing costs of letting down overworn guards. And in this era of mushrooming celebrity chefs, iconic restauranteurs and gastronomical temples, a pound of skepticism is a good thing, especially in this economy.
So if we succumb to the buzz, our attitudes are generally, let’s see what all the hype is about. These were the thoughts going through my head when someone very dear to me invited me to celebrate a personal milestone at Telepan.
While not yet quite on a par with the likes of Mario, Tom or Anthony, Bill Telepan has garnered his admirable share of culinary renown with Judson Grill and with his first major ownership venture Telepan, in recent years, his celebrity has been on a sure and steady rise.
Since food can be a powerful transcendent experience of pleasure, one whose quest, I’ll never cease to pursue, I approach every meal by checking my cynicism at the door and open myself up to the possibilities and potentialities for bliss that fine ingredients and culinary prowess might be able to deliver. I was appropriately poised to enjoy Telepan.
As soon as the soles of my Aerosole pumps made contact with Telepan’s pale hard-wooden floors, I felt visually serenaded by the lofty space, ingenious multi-dimensional layout and the serene decor. The high celery-toned walls tastefully contrasted with boldly-hued, dramatic still life photography murals. The two dining rooms felt bewilderingly spacious. At first I thought it was solely due to the fact that it’s small not very conspicuous storefront, which matches the quiet residential street on which it’s located. But then I realized it was a testament to architectural genius. Walls are layered to create the sense of many separate different areas. Of to the sides of the center of the restaurant, clear glass enclosures reveal two fully and elegantly stocked wine pantries.
After this calming yet bounteous display of aesthetic refinement, I was braced to be bedazzled by my meal. The menu was broad and punctuated by Hungarian and French influences. It incorporated autumnal flavors and ingredients such as squash spaetzle, baby candy beets and butternut squash gnocchi, to name only a few. The wine list was extensive and spanned price ranges that we choose to repress.
We were offered a choice of three different dinner rolls. I opted for the whole wheat. It was mildly crusty and warm and moist on the inside. The amuses bouches arrived a bit too soon thereafter, but they consisted of an elegant display of delicate foccaccia squares, what seemed to be an herb-seasoned sheep cheese spread on melba and a cold, tea cup portion of saffron-ginger soup. For starters, we ordered an autumn vegetable salad and the house smoked brook trout, which is Telepan’s signature appetizer. Served on a perfectly textured supple celery root blini, the velvety tender trout perfumed of freshness and was like serotonin on a plate. It was so complexly delicious that it literally tickled my insides. The only thing that interfered with my savoring every bite of it was the awareness that it was ending. Less striking by comparison, the salad seasonally colorful and tastily dressed in lemon vinaigraite.
For my entree, I ordered the haddock with lobster mushrooms, cabbage and lobster bisque. The haddock was delicately meaty and presented artfully beneath its side companions. However, the flavor a tad too buttery for my liking. My date ordered the monk fish with baby candy beets, pickled beets, wild dandeloin and dill-buttermilk sauce. His was the better choice. The gruner veltiner that we paired our dinner with was crisp with light citrus notes and ultimately a good choice.
Dessert was a pear napoleon custard. Somewhat to my disappointment, it arrived coated in a caramellized sugar crust flanked by the subtly stewed sour cherries. Aside from the stellar presentation and the exciting tart counterpoint delivered by the cherries, the caramel effect crossed the limits of my sweettooth.
All in all, Telepan can offer an evening of seasonal pastoral pleasures with artisinal flair in an atmosphere of subdued elegance and flawless service. It is not easy on the budget, but if you’re looking for a refined dining experience with well-crafted entrees and an sophisticated but unpretentious setting, it will be sure to please. Our dinner cost for two cost us somewhere between $150 - $175, including 20% tip. Reservations for a Friday evening were made five days in advance.
To order your copy of Bill Telepan’s, Inspired by Ingredients, click on the image below.
Yes, a truly wonderful place. Try the gnocchi next time.