The Gotham Palate

61 Greenwich Avenue (corner of W. 10th Street)

While there’s no shortage of good Italian restaurants in Greenwich Village, less than a handful offer the inspired, simple Italian dishes in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, the way Grano does. This is why Grano is one of my staples.

Whether the dining room is only half-populated or bursting at the seams, a typical experience at Grano will run like this: the jolly Southern Italian host and part owner of Grano will extend a genuine and hearty welcome to you and then spring into action to offer you the best possible seat or immediately create one for you, if necessary. In winter, optimal seating is in the rear dining area with view to the roaring brick oven.

Grano’s chef, Maurizio Crescenzi, has has this uncanny ability to provide deliciously, satisying relief for Italian comfort food cravings. I have indulged many a spontaneous urge for a homemade carrot gnocchi dish, handcut cavatelli with broccoli rabe or a spicy fusilli matriciana by showing up without reservations on a Friday night and have received the same warm hospitality and high quality eats that I receive there on slower nights. The only difference is the wait, which is painless if you manage to squeeze into a stool at their five-seater bar.

Warm focaccia or a basket of breadsticks accompanied by a small plate of fresh herb ricotta that the waitstaff delivers almost immediately primes the palate and provides a stable foundation for the culinary joys that await you. A moderately priced selection of wines (mostly Southern Italian) punctuate the experience. For those who abstain: the sparkling water at Grano is worth noting, as it’s not the typical San Pellegrino or Perrier. Instead it’s a light, low-mineral content, water from Piedmont called Lurisia. The added bonus is that it has a lower mark-up price than the titan brands mentioned above.

All menu courses at Grano from appetizer to dessert are uniformly good. However, it’s the gnocchi and cavatelli pastas dishes, prepared with a good balance of bold and traditional combinations, that have the power to wow. But all of the pastas, with the exception of the casarecci, which are too bulky and not among the fresh pastas, are a hit. and pear and a drizzle of ricotta salata to provide a subtle counterpoint to the sweet flavors. The meats are delicious and receive subtle seasoning. Each bite bursts with elemental flavor.

The apple tart and the panna cotta are excellent dessert choices.

A trattoria ( Italian for a casual, moderately-priced restaurant), Grano is big on quality and low on pretension. It is great for an informal date or dinner with a group of friends.

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