Tucked in the elbow of West Village’s famed cobble stone streets (just walking down those streets arouses the sense that one is paying homage to Greenwich Village’s literary legends of the likes of Millay and Poe), Commerce  retains numerous vestiges of its previous incarnation Grange Hall, such as the cavernous setting and the intimate booths. The décor otherwise exudes understated modern elegance. A surprising discovery was the sumptuous plate of bucatini alla carbonara that I enjoyed there – my experience differed considerably with Frank Bruni’s on this one (and I’ve been to Rome in the past six months so I have a recent benchmark of what it’s supposed to taste like).

Commerce also shows notable competence in succulent braised poultry and meat dishes. The prices are reasonable for the quality of the entrees and the attractive interior art-deco design. While I appreciate an attentive wait-staff that is alert and sensitive to details, the servers at Commerce could really ease up a bit – as a distracted misplacement of silverware on the part of the diner will be responded to at the speed of a tennis ball catcher at the US Open.

Such fastidiousness should be applied to the musical selection at the restaurant. Really, a former speakeasy should be able to muster up something a little more sexy and atmospheric than American eighties pop. All in all though, Commerce serves up many delectable pleasures with imaginative presentations. It’ll well be worth the trip and the treadmill session you’ll feel obliged to have the next day, since the fabulous array of baked goods with which you’ll be greeted will make you want to abduct the baker or at least make you want trade your carb quota for the entire month for one night of unbridled leavened love. It’s more than a reasonable trade. By all means precede or follow this dinner with a performance at the adjacent Cherry Lane Theater .

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